Creation: Sewaholic Alma Buttoned Blouse

All over I read blog posts where sewers have altered, adapted and modified patterns to suit their taste, something I have never been very good at. Therefor I am very proud of this project, which really is a simple alteration, still one I couldn’t find with the help of Google. I love wearing woven tops and blouses in the summer, more so than wearing clinging knit tops. I have been on the lookout for a buttoned blouse but couldn’t find one. In fact I did buy New Look 6945 last year but as I began studying the pattern I realised I didn’t want to try and FBA it for the fear of getting too much of a cleavage. Plus what’s up with the ease in these patterns?

Sewaholic Alma

Great casual blouse

As I am blogging out of order I have previously this summer made myself a new Sewaholic Alma and I really like that pattern! Thanks to the double darts it’s easy to fit and it’s flattering. For the first version I had fitted it and made an FBA so for this round I could focus on the button front. I sewed a size 6, graded to a 4 below the waist, lengthened the pattern 2″ (1″ at the bottom and 1″ at the lengthen line) and did a (total) 3 cm FBA.


My changes to the facing

For the button front I extended the front piece by 2 cm and obviously cut two pieces of them. For the front facing I also extended it 2 cm in width at the centre front, and extended it down to the same length as that of the blouse. I made the facings 5 cm wide and sewed them with a 1 cm seam allowance. I didn’t under-stitch them, in stead I top-stitched around the whole neckline, front and back. All back pieces were left un-altered.

Sewaholic Alma

A risk of gaping, but not too big

I found five white buttons in my stash which I put on my blouse. For my next version, and yes there WILL be more versions, I will probably add a little more to the centre front 2.5-3 cm and use more buttons. There is a little gape in this blouse, but thanks to the FBA it’s OK to wear, it’s a casual blouse anyway.

Sewaholic Alma

I love the shape of the blouse

The fabric is leftovers from my Maxi Anna, a cotton poplin with 3% elastane. Also it fits the theme for July in The Monthly Stitch “Check it out“. A perfect wearable muslin, and I can’t wait to make more and experiment with necklines and buttons. I might end up with a wardrobe full of Almas!

Jag gillar att bära kläder i vävt tyg, även när det är varmt (även om denna sommar kanske inte kvalificerar in där). Efter ett långt letande efter ett mönster på en blus med knappar fram beslutade jag att göra om Sewaholic’s Alma. Jag har lagt till 2 cm mitt fram på bade livet och infodringen, den har jag dessutom förlängt till blusens längd och gjort 5 cm bred. Till nästa version ska jag nog lägga till lite till och använda fler knappar. Denna funkar men risken för glapp är rätt hög. Tyget är bomullspoplin med elastan från Stoff och Stil, tidigare använt i min Maxi Anna.

Creation: Burda 05-2012-106, Godet Skirt

This is a skirt I practically finished three years ago. It didn’t fit back then and it was thrown back into the dark corners of my sewing room, only to re-emerge a few weeks ago when I was doing a re-organisation. This time it did fit and all I had to do was install the facings and hem the skirt, making it 20 cm shorter in the process.

Gored Skirt (4)

Since it was three years ago that I made the bulk of this skirt I don’t remember much about the details. The fabric is a woven bamboo twill, very lightweight. With the knowledge I’ve gained over the past three years, this skirt would probably be better in a heavier fabric, this fabric is also very prone to wrinkles. Also, the colour is not one I would have picked out now, it’s too soft for me. That said, I will wear the skirt over the summer and decide its fate after some test runs. But while taking the photographs I loved wearing it and how it felt on me and flowed in the wind, so it might get some wear after all.

Gored Skirt (7)

The pattern is Burda 05-2012-106. It’s a flared skirt, getting its shape from godets in the front and back. The front is characterised with big welt pockets. I love the pockets and shape of the skirt. For some reason I made the skirt really long when cutting it, it’s now about 65 cm long and it’s a good length on me, I think. I didn’t do the buttons down the front, instead I put an invisible zipper in the back. I really want to make a new version of this skirt, in a more appropriate fabric, especially after seeing the beautiful versions on the Burdastyle project page.

Gored Skirt (8)

I really don’t have much more to add about this project, since I don’t remember much more about it.




Denna kjolen påbörjades för tre år sedan, men passade inte då och har sedan dess varit förpassad till syrummets gömmor. Jag hittade den vid en standing för några veckor sedan och nu passade den, så jag sydde färdigt den, det var infodringarna och fållen som var kvar. Mönstret är Burda 05-2012-106 och tyget är bambutwill från Stoff och Stil.

Jag gillar kjolen, men tyget är lite för lätt för den och jag är inte helt säker på att jag gillar färgen. Modellen gillar jag och jag vill gärna sy den igen, i ett mer stabilt tyg. Denna gang har jag tagit bort knappslån fram och ersatt med ett osynligt blixtlås bak, en ändring som jag nog kommer att fortsätta med. Fickorna älskar jag, även om de inte riktigt håller formen i detta lätta tyg.

Nu hoppas jag på varmt väder i sommar så att jag kan bära min nya kjol och hoppas att jag kommer att trivas i den!

Creation: Colette Hawthorn Dress

I’m not the person to instantly buy a new pattern when it’s released. I’d rather wait and see the pattern made up by various sewers before I buy it, therefor I am always late to the pattern party. So now, two years after its release, I have finally joined the Hawthorn bandwagon. It is also one of my two makes for “One Pattern, Two Ways” in Indie Pattern Month.

Me and my two Hawthorns

Me and my two Hawthorns

According to my measurements I hit all the numbers for the size 8. Yet I had to add a 2 cm FBA (1 cm per side). Pattern drafting and pattern maths are things I will never understand. I followed the FBA tutorial on and added an extra side dart. After that I proceeded to split the waist dart in two. I really like the fit of this dress, the bodice could be a smidgen shorter, but I won’t beat myself up about it.

Bodice with plenty of darts

Bodice with plenty of darts

The fabric is a ripstop (which says nothing to me), a 50/50 blend of cotton and polyester. I like the colour and the small print of the pattern, subtle but it keeps the fabric from become boring. It pressed well and was easy to work with. The oddest thing about this fabric however, is that it was actually bought with a Hawthorn in mind! It’s been sitting in my pile for almost a year and in the end it became the dress it was intended. Isn’t that amazing!? The buttons are mother of pearl.

Hawthorn dress (12)

The pattern was quite easy to follow, and I made my first tower placket and cuff. They’re not perfect but for my first attempt I’m very satisfied. I really liked the fold lines on the pattern piece for the placket, which made the whole thing easier, and the pictures on the sewalong really helped a lot.

My very first placket and cuff!

My very first placket and cuff! (Maybe I forgot one stitch line?)

This is a perfect transition piece, great for work in those in between seasons. It got its first wear at the horse race track for their annual family day on Ascension Day. Carousels, taco lunch, pony rides and horse betting, it really is fun for the whole family! Especially fun when I put 10 SEK (€1.07) on Mr. Gorgonzola, just because I loved that name, and that cheesy sounding horse (pun fully intended) won and gave me 347 SEK (€37) back. Thank you Mr. Gorgonzola!



Can you tell I’m really pleased with my new dress? Putting an effort into fitting, something I never did before, really pays off.

Perfect twirl dress!

Perfect twirl dress!



Som en del av The Monthly Stitch’s Indie Pattern Month har jag sytt en Hawthorn-klänning. Tyget är ripstop (50/50 bomull/polyester) från Stoff och Stil. Trots att mina mått föll précis på storlek 8 var jag tvungen att göra en FBA på 2 cm (jag kommer aldrig att förstå mönster-matte), vilket gjorde att jag lade till en sidinprovning, dessutom delade jag midjeinprovningen i två.

Klänningen bar jag första gången på Jägersros familjedag där hästen Mr. Gorgonzola sprang in 347 kr på min satsade tia. Härlig klänning att bära och storvinst på travet blev en väldigt glad Helena!

Creation: The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook dress: The Leaf Dress

Once upon a time I posted about a dress I loved, my Leaf Dress. I sewed it back in the Spring of 2012. Three years ago. Back then I didn’t fit into it, especially after adding a lining. Then I spent a year and a half being pregnant and nursing. Then I tried to adjust to being a working mum of two. Now, three years later, it fits!

Leaf dress (19)

Happy that this dress finally fits (the belt is a bit big, though)

The fabric, in form of my Leaf Skirt, have made rounds during Me-Made-May and its likes and it was always one of the most appreciated garments I wore. The irony is that the skirt is now too big. The skirt was produced after the dress, so I knew I had a winner fabric on my hands. The fabric is a lovely cotton sateen, I love working with that stuff. I behaves politely and do as I please; it doesn’t shift and it presses well.

Leaf dress (21)

The pattern is the dress from the Burdastyle Sewing Handbook. This was pre my FBA days, I think it wouldn’t have hurt my to do a slight FBA, but the dress sits nicely on me. The fit is not perfect, though, as the princess seams flatten my chest. It’s just that I’m so happy to be able to wear the dress, that I don’t care! People who don’t sew will be impressed, mark my words!

Leaf dress (24)

The dress, being fully lined, may very well be one of my best-constructed garments. I can’t wait for the weather to get warmer and wear this dress! (Not too warm though as the lining is polyester). Also, I’m hoping I don’t have too high expectations on this dress, having seen it hanging in my wardrobe for three years and now being able to wear it. It is just a dress, albeit a very pretty dress. And now I can finally wear it!

The ruffle is left raw

The ruffle is left raw

Project summary:
: The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook dress.
Difficulty: Intermediate. With my experience I didn’t find it hard, I liked the images that accompanied the instructions. However, I would not recommend this as a beginner pattern.
Alterations: Omitted the neckline ruffle and closure (although I might add a closure now that I see the pictures).

Fabric: Cotton Sateen, Acetate lining.
Notions: Thread, zipper, interfacing
Price: Fabric 100  SEK (€11.61), zipper 23 SEK (€2.67), lining 20 SEK (€2.32), thread and interfacing 10 SEK (€1.16).
Total: 149 SEK (€17.29)


Denna klänning sydde jag för 3 år sedan. Tyvärr passade den inte då, och däremellan har jag varit gravid och ammat. Men nu, tre år senare, har jag tagit mig i kragen och nu kan jag äntligen bära den! Den sitter bra, men hade nog dragit nytta av en Full Bust Adjustment. Mönstret är klänningen från The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook och tyget är bomullssating från Stoff och Stil. Tyget är underbart! Jag älskar mönstret och känslan av det, det var underbart att arbeta med. Klänningen är helfodrad med acetatfoder.

Creations: Cropped Hawthorn Blouse and Mortmain Skirt

The second contest for Indie Pattern Month over at The Monthly Stitch is “Separates”. The rules were simple enough, sew two coordinating pieces that work together in an outfit. To sew my separates I reached for two of my dresses patterns, because it seems like the natural thing to do, right?

Minnie Outfit (2)

I bought the polka dot poplin back in January on the annual sale and even back then I had the intention of making a Mortmain skirt. I love the shape of the skirt with those big box pleats. The main feature of the Mortmain is the exposed zipper in the back, which is inserted in a clever way, here demonstrated by Roobeedoo. Of course I had to have an exposed zipper in the back of my skirt, a white zipper to match the polka dots.

Minnie Outfit (9)

After making my skirt I needed something to pair it with. The skirt is pretty high-waisted so I settled for a cropped version of Colette’s Hawthorn dress. All my measurements hit the same size on the size chart, but I still had to do a 2 cm FBA. I will never understand the mathematics of pattern drafting. In the FBA I added a side dart, following the FBA I also split the waist dart in two to reduce bulk, after my FBA it was 10 cm across. For the sleeves I did view A, with short sleeves and a folded cuff. The buttons are fabric-covered buttons.

Minnie Outfit (16)

Not my best face, but it shows off all my FBA darts

This outfit will be dubbed the Minnie outfit as it reminds me of Minnie mouse. I really like how well these two half-dresses go together, although I don’t think they would make a good Frankenpattern. Just the fact that one closes with buttons in the front and one with an exposed zipper in the back is one clue. Plus, I think there would be too much going on. These pieces can also easily be worn with other items, although I’ve passed the bare midriff age and will search for high-waisted bottoms to go with the shirt. Or layer it beneath something longer.

Sleek profile

Sleek profile

I like the outfit, it may be a bit out there, but it did turn out as I envisioned it so I’m quite pleased. I find that is it flattering on me and fun. Obviously it is my entry for the separates contest at The Monthly Stitch.


Den andra tävlingen i The Monthly Stitch’s indie-månad är uddaplagg. Jag sydde två plagg i bomullspoplin med stretch; en kjol med Mortmain-mönstret och en kort blus från Hawthorn. Kjolen har jag sytt enligt denna beskrivning och den har givetvis ett synligt blixtlås där bak, précis som klännings-förlagan. På blusen har jag gjort 2 cm FBA, lagt till en bystinprovning samt delat midjeinprovningen i två. Det blev en blus som passade mig mycket bra!

Creation: Green BHL Anna Dress

There’s one shower I love more than any shower in the world. It’s a summer shower, the one you take after having spent the day at the beach. I can always smell the outdoors on my skin and it feels so good to get rid of the salt and sand and feel clean. It’s usually still warm, so the wet hair is no bother and when you slip into a clean dress it’s the best feeling ever. This is the dress I want to slip into whilst drinking rosé wine or, even better, Martini Rosato.

Green Anna (13)

A maxi dress is a great way to keep your legs warm as the temperatures drop in the summer evenings and ever since last midsummer I have envisioned myself in a maxi Anna (By Hand London). Since the goal on Swedish midsummer is to sit outside for as long as possible, a maxi dress is a necessity if you want to go barelegged. I envisioned a green dress paired with a dark denim jacket, which I bought on our trip to Spain in December last year.

Green Anna (1)

Being a bit *ahem* bustier than the average gal, I cut a size US8 and did a 2″  FBA on my bodice. After I did this I also lengthened the bodice, from 0 cm at the side seam to 2 cm at the centre front. The pleats were 3 cm shortened and of course corresponded with my new length. The FBA is well described on the sewalong paged, however, I don’t like the way the apex follows the pleat in stead of the pleat following the apex. Either way I am pleased with the way my dress turned out in terms of fit. I had planned on testing the thigh high split, but that was totally forgotten when I sewed the skirt, hence, no slit.

Green Anna (35)

The fabric is a cotton gingham with 3% elastane, which makes the dress really comfortable. As I had read that the Anna might not need the 3.5 metres indicated I bought 4 metres. In the end I have almost 1 metre left, so I will make a top with the remains. I’m very pleased with my research, otherwise I would have ended up with a half a metre scrap which couldn’t really be used for anything.

Green Anna (24)

One of the things I like about the Anna is that it is a maxi dress, but still holds the shape over the waist. A lot more flattering than the more commonly seen empire cuts or flowing looks. The facings are very floppy and are prone to turn to the outside, I don’t know if that’s the nature of this cut or if they could have been drafted differently. They need a whole lot of pressing to keep neat and tidy. Also, I don’t like that, according to the instructions, they’re supposed to go in before the zipper and not even be under-stitched. I put them in after the zipper and understitched them.

Green Anna (30)

Despite all the small kinks, I like this dress and it will be worn all summer, I suspect, as well as going to Italy in October. It is also my entry for The Monthly Stitch’s Indie Pattern month, entering in the Dresses category. Now, pass the Rosato.


Project summary:
: By Hand London Anna dress. V-neck and no slit.
Difficulty: Easy. There is no hard sewing.
Alterations: 2″ FBA. Shortened pleats 3 cm, lengthened front bodice, 0 cm at side seam 2 cm at CF.

Fabric: Cotton gingham, with 3% elastane. From Stoff och Stil.
Notions: Thread, zipper, interfacing
Price: Fabric  150 SEK (€16), zipper 23 SEK (€2.38), thread and interfacing 10 SEK (€1.08).
Total:  183 SEK (€19.53)


En sommarklänning för lata kvällar på altanen, efter en dag fylld med sol och bad. Mönstret är By Hand London’s Anna-klänning och jag har ökat vidden over bysten. Tyget är bomullsgingham, med några procent elastin, från Stoff och Stil, den är väldigt bekväm att ha på sig. Jag gillar att den är skuren vid midjan istället för att bara hänga rakt ner. Infodringarna är dock lite besvärliga då de har en tendens att lägga sig på rätsidan, speciellt eftersom mönstret säger att de ska sys på innan blixtlås och inte sys fast i sömsmånen (under-stitch).

The Stash

Helena (yes, what a lovely name!) of Gray All Day is running a series called “Sew it Chic in a Week”. In it we are encouraged to share our finished garments. I have shared one garment there, since then I’ve been busy stitching away on my cross-stitch project. However, that cross-stitching project has not stopped me from adding onto my stash, so at the moment it’s been a larger input than output. Mind you, my stash is usually manageable in that I mostly buy fabrics for which I have a purpose. I don’t hoard fabrics. At least I don’t hoard fabrics when I do have an output of garments. Still, I don’t think it’s that bad… I just wish I could properly close my cupboard doors.

The Stash (2)I started out with using the two middle shelves for fabrics. It quickly got too small and my fabrics have extended up and down, as you can see those shelves are really meant for other things. And scraps have moved in. And garments I would like to alter. There’s a huge piece I meant to make curtains of, still there. Some stretch-denim which I ambitiously bought to make a suit, haven’t gotten around to that yet. Some Christmas fabric leftovers, I have no idea what to do with them.

The Stash (1)

These are my favourite pieces. (Note, no curtain fabric or Christmas leftovers). I almost have plans for all of these pieces.

Top row, LtR: Poplin, thinking a jacket/skirt set; 2x viscose, meant for blouses; Stretch twill, Clover pants
Middle row, LtR: Pique, meant for a skirt; knitted fabric, a sweater/skirt set; Gingham poplin, maxi Anna dress and a blouse (if enough fabric); cotton (also a blouse)
Bottom row LtR: Cotton, a blouse (I really need blouses); polka dot cotton poplin, a Mortmain skirt; Pique, another skirt.

(I accidentally left out a piece of blue rip stop meant for a Hawthorn dress. Oops!)

I do have a little bit left on my cross-stich birth record for Erika, but I can’t wait to start working with my uncut pieces. Every new piece is a new adventure!

Are you a fabric hoarder or project buyer? Have you ever bought a fabric with one project in mind and have it ending up something else? Which piece of fabric would you steal from me?

Helena från Gray All Day bjöd in sina läsare att visa upp sitt tygförråd. Mitt har växt ut ur sin avsedda plats och tar över mer och mer av min bokhylla. En del av bitarna gillar jag lite extra och har redan planer för, jag ska bara bli klar med mitt broderi först!