Process: Mortmain

As I had posted my blog hop answers on writing, they still stuck with me. Especially the part about my editing myself to avoid too much ramblings in my creations post. But if I feel I have a lot to say, why shouldn’t I say it? To avoid long posts I can always split the content into two posts. That’s what I’m doing here since I already feel I have a lot to say about the Mortmain dress I’m working on.

I’m not the person to jump on every new pattern release. I can enjoy a new pattern, but I wish to see it made up a couple of times before I commit. Yes, you can call me a coward. Also, I don’t enter giveaways if I can’t see myself using the prize, may it be fabric, patterns, books, notions or whatever. However, during Indie month on the Monthly Stitch, there was a giveaway for the Mortmain dress by Gather. I hadn’t come across it before but I liked it so I entered the giveaway and Lady Luck was on my side and I won.


How the fabric came into my stash is another story. Usually, when fabric shopping, I have a plan. In my mind I have a selection of patterns and I try to match a fabric to a pattern, but I always stop by the remnant bin, excellent finds can be made there. This fabric is one of them. It’s a dark teal, cotton satin with 5% lycra. It’s luscious and gorgeous, has a small sheen to it. It’s been in my stash for a year. At first I thought of making a Colette Hawthorn, but it wasn’t enough fabric. Then it just sat in my stash, I petted my lovely fabric, wondering what it was meant for until the Mortmain pattern landed in my mailbox. Marriage!

Since I loved the fabric and it had gained a high status, unused fabrics can get that, I wanted to be prepared. Enter research phase! I did my first muslin. I learnt that the Mortmain was drafted for a C cup (excellent information!) so I made a 2 cm FBA on my bodice and waistband muslin. The bodice was a bit short and the darts were too high. However, the FBA was good and I only needed to move the darts and add length.

Tips from Twitter - love the #sewcialists!
Tips from Twitter – love the #sewcialists!

Since I am learning my way in the adventures of fitting I asked on Twitter if length or dart shifting came first. Emily of Tumbleweeds in the Wind said darts first and then length may not be needed. She was right and after I moved the darts south the bodice fit me.

Still, my fabric was so precious that I didn’t dare cut it yet and I googled blog posts of the Mortmain. Mary of Idle Fancy had made a cute version, however she brought up the issue of a lack of interfacing on the waistband because waistband stretches. This made me concerned since I already had stretch in my fabric, so I decided to make my waistband double, with one piece interfaced (outer layer) and one piece un-interfaced as facing.

Beyond the point of no return
Beyond the point of no return


With that I felt ready to Cut That Fabric!

And I have high hopes for my new dress.

Are you a “jump in the deep end of the pool”-person or do you research and study before a project? Does it differ for different projects? How do you treat your “special” fabrics?


5 thoughts on “Process: Mortmain

  1. It depends on the pattern/fabric for me. If the fitting is a crucial issue, I’ll do a muslin. Though I’m also a big fan of the wearable muslin route, usually with fabric that I won’t be crushed if the project doesn’t work out.

    1. I do like the wearable muslin idea, but I find it hard to find fabric I like well enough to wear, but still don’t be crushed if it doesn’t work out. I’m quite picky about my fabrics. For now I will stick to my loads of cheap IKEA cotton and only muslining crucial bits (ie. bodices)

    1. It’s going well (until I sewed a sleeve facing in upside down) and I’m taking my time with details (except for said facing). I love the fabric and I predict I will have a hard time deciding on a decorative stitch later on…

  2. Every time I don’t make a muslin because the pattern is simple or not very fitted, I end up having some issues. So I really try to make the muslins. Usually one of the bodice / top part and then a wearable one (if I’m feeling very ambitious or the fabric is precious).

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