Category Archives: Dress

Refashion: A New Life For A Wonky Dress

Three years ago I went to the lovely Cape Cod for a family wedding. It was 8C and rain when we landed in Boston and for take-off, one week later, it was 35C and sunny. Quite the contrast! (This is me in Cape Cod, BTW)

The wedding was held at the bride’s parents’ house in Chatham and it was a nice affair. We were served lobster, which I avoided due to an allergic reaction the previous year (according to my cousin (MD) lobster contain an allergen that do affect everybody, it’s just the cut-off limit that varies for different people) and danced the night away. Or, rather evening since the kids were only 4 and 7 at the time. I had made a dress for the occasion, a dress with which I struggled immensely. It was a nightmare to fit.

The before. With a safety pin in place. And a dried-out lawn.

I have worn the dress since, but always with a safety pin holding the neckline in place and having such a solution meant I never really felt comfortable in it. Plus the waistline was wonky and I always felt like such a fraud whenever I wore and got compliments. People got fooled by the pretty fabric that this dress looked good. So, I decided a refashion was in order.

The after, front. Everything lays nicely no and I can move without fear of indecent exposure.

I internally debated on whether or not I should make a skirt or a “new” dress. In the end I settled on a dress, since I had enough fabric leftover to make a new bodice*. I used the Belladone bodice from Deer & Doe; I added length and removed the back overlay bodice, extending the underlay bodice to match the front shoulders. This meant I could keep the back v-line, which I like having in dresses. Instead of using bias tape as facing I lined the bodice in a thin voile, with interfacing around the neckline, for comfort and structure.

The back. I like back v-necklines. And I did the zipper better this time. *Win*

Since the dress was finished right before midsummer it accompanied me to a small gathering with friends and it held up fine for all classical midsummer games and dances. I would not have done the “little frog dance” in the previous version, but with this dress I had no worries that my boobs would pop out.

So, refashion success!


*Bodice in Swedish translates to “liv”. As does life. So in Swedish when I say I gave my dress a new “liv” it means both bodice and life. I do appreciate a good word pun!


Me-Made May, the first half

While I do share my outfits every day on Instagram, I want to share them here too. To really make myself think about my outfits, what I like and what I don’t like.

Day 1: Meeting people. At a distance, of course. Wearing Checkered Chardon, a Megan Nielsen Briar in linen knit and a double gause Simplicity 8610 jacket.
Since I was actually leaving the house this day, I tried to combine things in a new way. It kind of works. I’m still debating whether or not I should add a button to the jacket.

Day 2: Staying casual at home in Waffle Patterns Pinda pants and Burda 11/2019 hoodie.
Casual and comfy. Nothing more, nothing less.

Day 3: Wearing Waffle Patterns Pinda Pants, RTW tank and Megan Nielsen Briar. And thrifted pink Converse.
I had to rush out as soon as the store opened as we were out of toilet paper (we’re so not hoarding!) and something for the kid to bring to scouting. Tired, but comfy and I had those pink shoes to cheer me up!

Day 4-6, all working from home in knit tops.
On 4 and 5 I’m wearing a wrap top from Burda 02/2020, thrifted trousers on day 4 and my Olga skirt on day 5. I love the colour of the top and the details of the skirt. And look at those lime green leaves in the background! Day 6 is a meh outfit. Both pieces are from Allt om Handarbete (top, trousers) and I need to make so many adjustments to get them to fit, both in terms of sizing and other alterations, that I think I’m done with that company. The colour scheme is nice, though, and the top is a bit better with a belt.

Day 7-9Day 7: I won the Hey June Lane Raglan in an IG giveaway and after six weeks of travelling from the US it arrived and I already had a fabric dedicated to it. A nice and comfy t-shirt, I like the fit since the pattern came with a built in FBA and I like the paint effect of the blue stripes.
Day 8: I went all out with blue shades today! This dress is so comfortable, but still with a nice shape. The fabric is pique and the free pattern is from Swedish designer Jenny Hellström. Rest is RTW. While in theory I would want a me-made denim jacket I don’t see the point as this jacket is perfectly fine. Once it’s worn out, we’ll talk.
Day 9: I went on a pre-breakfast bikeride and while waiting for the family parkour with my daughter I threw on some old sweat pants and a t-shirt. They served their purpose for keeping me clothed, but not sweating on anything precious

Day 10: Lane Raglan again. Handstitching a hem on a dress in one of my favourite fabrics.
Day 11: Pinda pants, a slouchy cardigan in linen knit (refashioned from a me-made warp cardigan) and an Allt om handarbete knit blouse. This knit blouse is OK, despite my complaining of the company earlier. And, while not shown, I like to think my sleeves are better matched than their own example.
Day 12: OK, so I wore the same outfit as yesterday, but got around the issue by wearing a me-made top for the gym. This is a nice airy top, but it’s quite tricky to put on, and it does show off my efforts at the gym.

Day 13: Olga skirt and grey MN Briar. I like the silhouette of this outfit, but, as can be seen in the two Briar outfits above, the neckline is very wide on me. And then I’ve taken in the knit one!
Day 14: These trousers have so many cool details (that I effectively hide) and I love the colour, but the fit is off as they are Allt om handarbete. Their block and I are just not compatible! The linen knit works like this, a bit slouchy (in the best way) over a tank. It was an experiment and while OK, not great.
Day 15: It was grey, windy and raining, so I decided to wear some blue skies and flowers. Clothes can help elevate your mood! The pattern is New Look 6301 and it’s comfortable and put together. A great dress!

Sewn: The Purple Tree Dress

Includes a review for “Sew Many Dresses, Sew Little Time” by Tanya Whelan. Everything in the post I bought with my own money.

About a year and a half ago, I realised, that in an effort to make my wardrobe more versatile, I had sewn plenty of separates, but I was seriously lacking in dresses. Around the same time I accidentally stumbled across the “Sew Many Dresses” book by Tanya Whelan. It’s not that I hadn’t heard of the book before, but with inspiration coming from all over you forget stuff from time to time. I know I do.

Happy in a new dress!

Over Easter one of my sewing friends hosted a “sewcation in your own home”, meaning we had a FB event to share stuff and regularly planned Zoom calls to catch up, look at each other’s projects and ask for help, if needed. It was a great idea, but it heightened the urge to have a real sewing retreat, go away for the weekend and just sew with them. Ah well, the truth of 2020. I spent the time sewing my second dress from the book and while I just the many of the same elements as my first dress, they’re still two quite different dresses.

My first “Sew Many Dresses”-dress

My first one was sewn in November, 2018, as part of The Monthly Stitch’s Slow November. I used the basic bodice, with v-neck, the short sleeve and the pleated skirt, in which I made knife pleats to meet at the centre front and centre back. The fabric is a home weight jacquard in polyester, which was quite difficult to handle as it frayed like crazy (not to mention all the pill coming off when cutting!) and couldn’t handle the iron to save its life. I wore the dress for Christmas and loved it.

My second “Sew MAny Dresses”-dress

A few weeks ago I found a lovely organic cotton weave in the remnant bin at Stoff och Stil. It was begging to become a dress and during our Easter sewcation I stitched it up. I had a vision in my mind of what I wanted, this is where the book shines and lets you build the dress of your dreams, using the elements provided. Again I chose the basic bodice, but with the scoop neck this time and added the cap sleeve to it. There is something odd about the drafting here (the fact that you use the same armhole cut regardless of a sleeve or not is one clue) so I can’t really lift my arm. I’ll probably remove it for a sleeveless look. As for the skirt, I knew I wanted knife pleats, 3 one each side facing the centre so I just cut and hoped for the best. While I did take both mathematics and physics at uni (my degree is in physics), pattern math is so hard to me. I just can’t figure it out. In the end I got the look I was after, to the T, albeit a slight too short, so I hemmed with some bias tape.

Lining added (cotton/poly voile). Even though I use a lining I add interfacing to mimic theoretical facings.

I decided to line the bodice and since I chose to use a side zipper I couldn’t for the life of me figure out the instructions to apply it. It said to stitch up the main fabric side first and then twist and turn to apply it to the armholes, but it was impossible. I added the sleeve to not deal with the issue, and if (when) I remove the sleeve I will face it with bias tape.

The back, I love how the pleats ended up.

While I do love the concept of the book, there are a few things that would improve it. In addition to the sleeve issue, I would also appreciate final measurements of the bodices, and the skirts in applicable cases. Also the pattern outlines on the pattern sheets could have used another coding that black gradient to gray, the biggest sizes are really hard to see. Other than that the book is packed with inspiration and could be used for ANY type of dress with a waist seam.

This is as far as my arm goes

As for me, I just love that the dress turned out exactly as I envisioned in my mind – sleeves nonwithstanding!

2019 and 2020, Top 5 and Lookaheads

The sewing community is overflowing with wrap-ups of the previous year and decade as well as lookaheads to the new. I’ll join in, I like making book ends (heck, I have a whole spreadsheet dedicated to my creations and charts over pattern companies and types of garments, as well as one whole spreadsheet dedicated to my fabric stash). So first: The Numbers!

I made 40 sewing projects last year, of which 8 were for the kids, 1 was a bag and one was a cutlery wrap. Having identified a dress gap in my wardrobe I made many dresses this year, most of which get heavy rotation. I worked with 11 different pattern companies, Burda and Allt om handarbete were the 2 clear winners due to my collection of those magazines. However, the Allt om handarbete block is not a good match for me and to be honest their patterns are a bit boring so for next year I doubt they’ll be featured much.

Now, let’s look at some pretty clothes, shall we? I’ve already presented my bottom 5 of the year, so obviously it’s time for my top 5 of 2019! In chronological order:

1. Woman Dress

I bought this fabric in the autumn of 2018 and on March 6th I scrambled to make the dress so it could be worn on International Women’s day 2 days later. After contemplating many patterns, I’m really glad I went for a simple design to showcase those big Venus-signs. I’m also really glad that the despite the time crunch I was sewing this dress in, I pattern-matched the sides and avoided putting two big circles on my boobs. Whenever I wear this dress, it always garners plenty of attention.





2. Red maxi skirt

Ever since making the Belladone by Deer and Doe a few years back, I’ve been wanting to make a maxi skirt using that pattern. This spring I finally did, with a heavy but flowy viscose bought from Ohlssons and buttons from my mum’s stash. I must have ended up mis-counting, because the waist ended up much bigger than anticipated, so the pleats are quite deep. But I loved wearing this skirt over summer.





3. Blue-striped Reglisse

Both the fabric and the pattern for this project was bought for Black Friday 2018 and sewn up less than six months later! I’ve also made a less successful wearable muslin, but I fear that it will leave my closet soon. With this one I took care with the stripe-matching and it paid off well. I have lengthened the bodice and the skirt and raised the armhole a bit as well as making a bit smaller, making this sundress pattern appropriate for the office, as shown by the fact that this is the dress I chose to wear for my word ID badge.





4. The Lego shirts

I have a whole post dedicated to these, so go there for details. They are just really fun to wear!






5. My first ever coat

I invested a lot of time and money into this coat and luckily it paid off. I love how it looks, the fact that I managed to find a red non-wool fabric for it, the quilted lining, everything. Plus I wear it pretty much every day in the winter so it is in constant rotation!





As for the upcoming year, I don’t want to set any major goals, but rather guidelines. I will continue to sew with a plan, in which I’ll make a 4-7 piece plan for each season and try to stick to it. Sometimes, there isn’t enough time or priorities shift, but I’m at that point where my plans are filling gaps in my wardrobe, rather than building it. So, my own guidelines for the plans I make this year will be:

1.Use what I have

I have a pretty big stash with fabric for most type of clothing. For each plan I am allowed to buy new fabric only if an identified gap needs it (for example, in my upcoming spring plan I am making a pair of trousers. I had no suitable fabric so I bought for that. For a shirt tunic I’m making I must use something that was already in the stash). I start the year with 83,5 meters of fabric, let’s see where I end up.

This also applies to patterns, that I will try to use what I have instead of buying new.

2. Refashion

I have some hand-made garments at home that could use some attention to make them better (Exhibit A). For each plan I will try to add a refashion that would make some less-loved garments into more-loved, or at least have them die in the process of trying.

3. Sell things I won’t use

This relates mostly to fabrics and patterns. You know we’ve all bought some fabric and then realized it wasn’t our style or something or patterns that really only have one make in them. I hope someone will like what I have and take some things off my chest.

Long post, so congrats if you’ve made it to the end!



The Faux Wrap Dress for No One

See this girl? She looks happy in her dress, doesn’t she? Albeit the fabric choices are a bit juvenile, but I looked past the fabric and found a dress with a wrap twist on both the bodice and the skirt. I imagined it for the wedding I was attending in Cape Cod, in something nice and flowy.

McCalls’ 7317. Stay Away!

I bought a quite expensive cotton sateen, along with loads of cheap IKEA cotton, thinking that I am far enough into sewing that I can alter the bodice to make it fit. I happily set off on the journey, at that moment not realizing that ignorance is bliss.

This is what a screenshot of my phone gallery looked liked. In the middle of fitting, I stopped for grilled bananas with chocolate. And blue wine.

I don’t know how many times I made up that bodice. The 3 metres of IKEA cotton I had bought was all gone by the end of it and *spoiler alert* the dress still did not fit properly.  In a toile I sew using basting stitches, in order to easily rip them out. After a while I had pulled out the thread so many times that I got a cut on my finger. Cut by thread.

The problem lies in the neckline is my semi-qualified guess.

One of the major issues with this pattern is that the front neckline is the same for all sizes. Meaning that if you change the size you only change where the side and shoulder seam hit you. After a while my list of modification was long, I ran out of IKEA cotton, and I had a fit that was OK. In this case OK meaning not too much gape, not too low cleavage (or so I thought…) and adequate room in the waist. I cut my pretty fabric. One reviewer at Pattern Review says that she couldn’t get the dress to fit, but that it might be better suited for someone with a larger bust. Since I am that person, doesn’t this speak of really bad drafting?

The bodice was lengthened, bottom curve reshaped, I sewed with a smaller seam allwoanc at some places, pinched out a portion from the neckline and made the pleats longer. Still not enough.

This dress did come with me to Cape Cod and I wore it for my American cousin’s wedding. A year later I wore it to another wedding and this summer it also made an appearance at a party. The goal was to have a dress that would be that one go-to dress for fancy occasions. Sadly this is not that dress.

It needs a belt to be kept in place. And a safety pin in the clevage.

In order to not get an indecent cleavage I need to use a safety pin in a strategic place. I also always wear this dress with a belt to cover up the crocked waistline. Plus, the alterations of the bodice ultimately also lead to that the skirt didn’t line up properly and the overlap is much smaller than intended, leading to wardrobe malfunctions. I always get plenty of compliments, but I feel like such a fraud. Usually I take in the compliments, but when it fits this badly after putting so much effort into it, I feel they aren’t warranted. Plus, I just don’t feel comfortable in it.

I do love the back neckline

The pattern went off to one of my sewing friends, can’t remember who. I gave it to her for free, I couldn’t charge for such a bad pattern, but it did come with caution from me. I don’t know if she’s done anything with it. As for the dress, it will meet the scissors. I still love the fabric and the shape of the skirt. So I will take off that ill-fitting bodice and make a wrap skirt. I’m giving it another chance on life. As Tim Gunn says to Barney “Your [dress’] death could mean another [skirt’s] life”. That’s how I will view it.

Creation: The Princess Dress

You’d think that being off work for a little over two weeks would lend itself some great time and opportunity to photograph the most recent creations, right? Wrong! Therefore it is now time to present my Christmas dress. I wore it for our Christmas celebrations and then threw it in the wash without having photographed it and afterwards I haven’t looked presentable slouching at home(not that my standards for “presentable” is high, but I don’t want to be a total mess) or the times I have looked presentable I haven’t had the time to photograph myself as we were off somewhere with two kids.


En skulle kunna tro att drygt två veckors semester skulle leda till lite tid att ta bilder på de senaste skapelserna, eller hur? Fel, fel, fel! På grund av detta är det nu en bit in i januari som jag presenterar min julklänning. Den bars till våra julfiranden och sen slängdes den i tvätten utan att ha fotograferats. Efter det har jag inte sett tillräckligt presentabel ut (inte för att mina krav för presentabel är speciellt höga, men jag vill inte se helt bedrövlig ut), och de stunder jag har varit presentabel har jag inte haft fototid eftersom vi har varit på väg någonstans med två barn i släptåg.


Just two and a half weeks before Christmas I decided I needed a new Christmas dress. I fully committed to this dress. In order to get fabric I ran through IKEA in about 15 minutes. I impressed myself (I had planned to go to IKEA to buy gifts for the kids’ advent stockings, a fabric store is close by so the rush through IKEA meant I had some time to browse fabrics). It was a rush through the fabric store as well, looking through the remnant bin, looking through the bolt, before I eventually settled on this black and navy jacquard. I’m the first to admit that I don’t know a lot about various fabric types, but this fabric does not say jacquard to me. It feels like a satin with a mesh overlay, perhaps there’s something in the weaving that’s the same as for jacquard, but it’s not what I would have guessed. It’s a poly/viscose blend.


Bara två och en halv vecka innan jul bestämde jag att jag behövde en ny klänning till vinterns festligheter. När jag väl bestämt mig blev klänningen min högsta prioritet. För att kunna handla tyg sprang jag igenom IKEA på en kvart och imponerade på mig själv (jag hade IKEA-planer för att köpa presenter till barnens adventsstrumpor, eftersom Stoff och Stil och IKEA båda ligger på Svågertorp, betydde IKEA-loppet att jag hade tid för tyghandling också). Det fick gå fort på Stoff och stil också, jag letade i stuvlådan, tittade på hyllorna och till slut valde jag detta jacquard i marinblått och svart. Jag erkänner att jag inte kan mycket om tyger, men detta tyg känns inte som en jacquard. För mig är det mer satin med mesh ovanpå. Jag vet att jacquard är en vävning och det kanske är den tekniken som har använts, men det är inte vad jag hade trott. Tyget är en blandning mellan polyester och viskos.

I like the waist definition
I like the waist definition

Since time was sparse I looked through my pattern stash and settled on Gather Kit’s Mortmain dress. It’s the same pattern as I used for last year’s Christmas dress, but I changed it up by adding sleeves and doing the box pleats the other way. Plus, I used an invisible zipper instead of the exposed one. A whole new dress! Oh, and I lengthened the bodice a bit so the waistband hits me at my natural waist, so much more comfortable and looking so much better.


Eftersom jag hade lite tid tittade jag igenom mitt mönsterförråd och valde Gather Kit’s Mortmain-klänning. Det är samma klänning som jag använde till förra årets julklänning, men jag har ändrat lite genom att lägga till ärmar och göra motvecken på andra hållet. Dessutom sydde jag ett osynligt blixtlås istället för det synliga. En helt ny klänning! Jag förlängde också livet några centimeter så att midjebandet nu sitter vid min midja istället för en bit ovanför, det är mycket mer bekvämt och ser så mycket bättre ut.

Original sleeve left, Alma sleeve right
Original sleeve left, Alma sleeve right

The sleeves gave me a headache. It’s not a problem I’ve seen anyone share, so I don’t know if the problem is the drafting or if I have messed up. And I’ll never know. Anyway, I wanted to add sleeves as this is a winter dress after all. I sewed the cuffs, the sleeves, did some easing in and attached them. I tried the dress on for fit again (I had obviously already tried it on for bodice fit) and found I couldn’t move my arms (left, below). It was also straining over the bust, making my nice-fitting bodice fit worse. I received many tips on how to fix this; adding a gusset, making the sleeve less narrow, but in the end I took them out and replaced them with Sewaholic’s Alma sleeves, view B. Ah, now I can move my arms again, much better (right, above).


Ärmarna var inte trevliga att arbeta med. Det är inte ett problem jag har sett hos andra, så jag kan inte bedöma om problemet ligger i mönstret eller hos mig. Jag får aldrig veta. Jag ville ha ärmar eftersom det trots allt är en vinterklänningen. Jag sydde manschetterna, ärmarna, passade ärmkullen i ärmhålet och sydde fast dem. Sen provade jag klänningen igen och kunde knappt röra ärmarna (till vänster, ovan). Klänningen stramade också över bysten, vilket gjorde att det liv som innan passade så fint helt plötsligt passade dåligt. Jag fick många tips om hur jag kunde fixa det; lägga till en kil, göra ärmen mindre smal, men till slut tog jag av dem och ersatte den med ärmarna från Sewaholics Alma, vy B. Och så kunde jag röra mina armar igen (till höger, ovan)

Mortmain, side

Other than the sleeves, this dress came together nicely. The fabric was fraying like crazy, I left a trail of black threads around the house to lead me back to the machines. It was still pretty nice to work with, although unpicking was a PIA as the stitches disappeared into the fabric. Also, due to the polyester it didn’t take quite as well as I wish to pressing. But now I’m too into details, bottom line: it’s a pretty winter dress.


Förutom ärmarna så är klänningen lätt att sy. Tyget rispades upp lätt och jag lämnade ett spår av svarta trådar bakom mig, så jag kunde hitta tillbaks till symaskinerna. Det var rätt lätt att jobba med, men att sprätta var en plåga eftersom stygnen försvann in i tyget. Eftersom tyget har polyester i sig var det inte så kul att pressa, men nu är jag inte på smådetaljer. Det är en fin vinterklänning, helt enkelt.

Subtle differences between right and wrong side
Subtle differences between right and wrong side

And yes, I’m back with creatively naming my garments. This one has the very pretentious name of The Princess Dress. Not that I particularly feel like a princess or am a supporter of monarchy at all, but because of the colours. Some might say that navy blue and black don’t go together, I think they do. I think this fabric is a perfect winter fabric. Plus if that colour matching is good enough for our Swedish princess Madeleine, it is good enough for me.


Och ja, jag fortsätter med att hitta på namn till mina kläder. Denna fick det väldigt pretentiösa namnet Prinsessklänningen. Inte för att jag känner mig som en prinsessa eller ens är en supporter av monarkin, men på grund av färgerna. En del säger att marinblått och svart inte passar ihop, jag tycker att det kan de visst göra. Jag tycker att detta tyg är ett perfekt vintertyg. Och duger färgerna år prinsessan Madeleine, duger de åt mig.


Pattern/Mönster: Gather Kits Mortmain dress
Fabric: Jacquard in a polyester/viscose blend, Stoff och Stil
Notions: Invisible zipper, interfacing

Creation: Grey Skies Dress

I kind of want to see myself as someone who doesn’t abide by trends. I can walk around a shop, finding nothing I’d want to wear and or even inspire me. Thus the fact that I never look like anyone else and the fact that a denim mini skirt makes me feel modern, an unusual feeling for me. However, I wouldn’t really stand out in a sewing crowd, as there seems to be a whole other set of trends to follow in the sewing world. And I find myself following them, albeit a bit late. Anna dress? Check and check! Belladone dress? Check and check! Scuba dress? Check!

Scuba dress (7)

I’m not a big fan of sewing with knits. I kept reading about scuba clothes and thinking that while it looks fun it’s probably not for me. Then one day, as I was looking through the remnant bin in the fabric store, I suddenly put a piece of scuba knit in my trolley. As I had discussed scuba with her on Twitter I heard Amy/Almond Rock’s voice in my head telling me to buy it. The thing is, in the remnant bin the prices are reduced like 40% so it’s a great place to shop for fabric for experiments and wearable muslins. They could have some imperfections, in this case my piece was a little bit miss-coloured in a small corner of the piece, no big deal. In that instant I hopped on a recent sewing trend; scuba fabric.

Scuba dress (23)

The fabric laid in my stash, I knew what I wanted to do, but didn’t know whether or not I should buy a pattern for it. I wanted a fitted bodice and flared skirt. In the end I used two patterns from my stash, Simplicity 1539 (from this disaster of a top) and Burda 10-2011-04 (used for a velour skirt) which I modified. In the end the skirt isn’t as flared as I envisioned it and I probably should have omitted the waist seam, but it’s likely I’ll end up belting the dress when I wear it anyway. And I will wear this dress! I did a cheater FBA on the top, grading between the sizes 10 (shoulders and waist (which I took in even more in the end)) and 12 (over bust). For the skirt I omitted the panels and reduced the waist to fit the top, with a little bit of extra ease in the top skirt part.

Scuba dress (8)

Scuba is very synthetic. It’s just polyester and some lycra thrown in for good measure. That means that basically, this dress is a mini sauna. Just wearing the dress for these pictures, it was 15 degrees and sunny out, was an endurance test. So I’ll have to pick the moments to wear this dress carefully or I’ll end up in a puddle of sweat. This is no dress for cozying up by the fireplace. Also I’m left pondering one question. Can I wear this to work?

Hmm, is this work appropriate?
Hmm, is this work appropriate?

The October theme at The Monthly Stitch is “The Final Frontier” – look to the sky for inspiration. This will be my contribution, inspired by a gloomy, overcast autumn day.

Scuba dress (9)



Pattern/Mönster: Simplicity 1539and Burda 10-2011-104
Fabric/Tyg: Embossed scuba knit, Stoff och Stil/Präglat scuba-tyg, Stoff och Stil. Interlock for neckband/Interlock till ringningen
Notions/Sybehör: Tråd


Jag vill se mig själv som någon som inte slaviskt följer trender. Jag kan gå runt i en affär utan att hitta någonting jag vill ha eller ens inspireras av. Därav faktumet att jag aldrig ser ut som någon annan och även att en minikjol i denim får mig att känna mig ovanlig modern. Å andra sidan skulle jag inte riktigt stå ut i samling hemmaskräddare, eftersom det finns en helt annan uppsättning trender att följa i den världen. Jag finner mig följa dem, om än oftast något sent. Anna-klänning? Check och check! Belladone-klänning? Check och check! Scuba-klänning? Check!

Jag är inte ett stort fan av att sy stickade tyger. Så när jag läste mycket om scuba-kläder tänkte jag att det ser kul ut, men det är antagligen inte för mig. Sen en dag, när jag tittade i stuvlådan på Stoff och stil, hamnade plötsligt en bit scubatyg i min vagn. Eftersom jag hade diskuterat scuba med henne på Twitter hörde jag Amy/Almond Rocks röst i mitt huvud där hon uppmuntrade mig att köpa det. I stuvlådan är priserna reducerade, upp till 40%, så jag tycker det är ett bra ställe att handla experimenttyg och provplaggstyg. Tygerna kan ha imperfektioner, i detta fall var en liten bit missfärgad, men det var i ett hörn och lätt att arbeta runt. Och i det ögonblicket hoppade jag på sytrend; scubatyg.

Tyget låg i mitt förråd, jag visste vad jag ville göra med det, men inte om jag ville köpa ett nytt mönster. Jag ville ha ett formpassat liv och en utställd kjol. I slutänden valde jag två mönster jag hade hemma, Simplicity 1539 (från denna katastrof-topp) och Burda 10-2011-04 (använt till en velourkjol), detta mönster ändrade jag. I efterhand är kjolen inte så utställd som jag tänkte mig och det hade nog varit bäst att sy klänningen i ett stycke utan midjesöm, men troligtvis kommer jag att bära ett skärp när jag bär denna klänning ändå. Och den kommer att bäras! Jag gjorde en fusk-FBA genom att klippa olika storlekar. 10 över axlarna och midjan (vilken togs in ännu mer) och 12 över bysten. Kjolen gjorde jag utan panelerna och tog in midjan för att passa toppen, med lite extra rörelsevidd i kjolen.

Scuba-tyg är syntetiskt. Det är bara polyester och så lite elestan för att få till en riktigt bra stretch. Det betyder att i stora drag är denna klänning en mini-bastu. Bara att bära klänningen för dessa bilder, 15 grader och sol ute, var ett uthållighetstest. Jag måste välja mina tillfällen att bära denna klänning med noggrannhet, annars kommer jag sluta i en svetthög. Detta är ingen klänning för at mysa framför brasan. Dessutom funderar jag fortfarande över en fråga. Kan jag ha denna på jobb?

Oktober-temat hos The Monthly Stitch är “The Final Frontier” – sök inspiration i himlen. Detta blir mitt bidrag, inspirerat av en mulen, ruggig höstdag.

Creation: African Belladone

This dress is sewcialism at its best! I was laying on the couch, flipping away on my phone (probably watching Tour de France in the background) and found a post in The Monthly Stitch’s Facebook group. The August theme of “two” had just been announced and Siobhan had the idea of two garments from one fabric. Since I was the first to answer she kindly and generously sent me half a length of an African wax print. She had chosen a blue fabric with plenty of circles (which got pretty many drools in one of my Facebook sewing group). African Belladone (4)   At first I had planned a skirt but when the fabric arrived and I got to touch and feel it, it said “I want to be a dress” to me. So I ordered the Belladone dress from Deer and Doe. Since this fabric came all the way from Africa (Rwanda to be precise) to me and as a gift, I wanted to make the dress as good as possible. This included five muslins and one whole wearable muslin (in the post in which I talk about all fitting changes and stupid decisions). I had to do some puzzling on the fabric to get some pattern matching and to fit all the pieces. I didn’t do the waistband in the wax print due to not wanting to pattern match it. Instead I took some black denim I had in my stash, which I think breaks up the print in a good way but also gives a western/African fashion meet that I like. (when I pull the dress of the hanger all I can think of is how low that waistband is. But I am long-waisted, so it’s just the unusualness of having a dress where the waistband hits my natural waist that gets me) African Belladone (19) The bias tape I bought was a bit too wide, plus during this project I realised that I am not liking working with bias tape. I’ll take facings any day (and if I make this dress again I will think of ways to substitute the bias tape. It’s not my friend).

Waxprint meets denim
Waxprint meets denim

  The one bad thing about this dress is that I’ve made a sundress in August. It won’t be sundress weather again for quite some time. Luckily I’m going to Italy in October, so the dress will get some wear then. And maybe over a long-sleeved tee, this dress is too pretty to be held grounded in the wardrobe. African Belladone (12)   I would like to send a big thank to Siobhan for the fabric, head on over to her blog to see more wax print clothes and go to The Monthly Stitch to see what she did with her half of the piece. African Belladone (5)   Denna klänning är sybloggvärlden i sitt esse. En dag i juli låg jag i soffan, kollade runt på telefonen (och tittade antagligen på Tour de France i bakgrunden) och hittade ett inlägg i The Monthly Stitchs Facebookgrupp. Augustis tema ”två” hade precis kommit ut och Siobhan hade en en idé om två plagg från samma tyg. Eftersom jag var först att svara skickade hon en halv längd av afrikanskt vaxtyg till mig, väldigt snällt och generöst. Hon hade valt ett blått tyg med många cirklar (vilket fick mycket uppmärksamhet av de Vuxna sytokarna). African Belladone (17)   Först planerade jag för en kjol, men när tyget anlände och jag fick känna på det berättade det för mig ”jag vill bli en klänning”. Jag beställde Belladone från Deer and Doe. Eftersom tyget kom hela vägen från Afrika (Rwanda närmare bestämt) och det var en gåva ville jag vara säker på att klänningen skulle bli så bra som möjligt. Detta inkluderade fem provtoiler och en hel klänning som provplagg (ändringar och dumma beslut i det inlägget). Jag fick pussla på tyget för att få till lite mönsterpassning och för att få plats med alla bitar. Jag valde att inte göra midjebandet i vaxtyget eftersom mönsterpassningen hade inte blivit bra. Istället tog jag svart denim som låg i mitt tygförråd, jag tycker det bryter upp mönstret bra, men det ger också en västerländskt mode möter afrikanskt mode-vibb som jag gillar. (varje gång jag tar fram klänningen slås jag av hur långt ner midjebandet sitter. Men det är bara för att min naturliga midja sitter långt ner och för en gångs skull har jag ett plagg där midjebandet sitter i min midja och jag slås av ovanligheten).   Snedslån som användes som infodringarna var lite vid, under detta projekt insåg jag också att jag gillar inte att jobba med snedslå. Ge mig riktiga infodringar istället (och om jag gör klänningen igen ska jag försöka komma på ett sätt att ersätta snedslån, den är inte min vän).   En nackdel med klänningen är att jag har sytt en sommarklänning i augusti. Det kommer inte att vara sommarklänningsväder igen på ett tag. Lyckligtvis ska jag till Italien i oktober så klänningen kommer att bli buren då. Och kanske över långärmade t-tröjor, denna klänningen är för fin för att få utegångsförbud från garderoben.   Ett stort tack till Siobhan för tyget, läs på hennes blogg om fler kreationer i vaxtyg och kolla in på The Monthly Stitch för att se vad hon gjorde med sin halva.

Creation: Deer & Doe Belladone, Wearable Muslin

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The theme of the Monthly Stitch for August is “two”, since its TMS’ 2nd birthday! I have something a little extra planned for that and since it’s a little extra I wanted to take my time and make it perfect. Which brings me to this creation; the wearable muslin.

Belladone (23)


Let me tell you, this dress was a real PIA to sew – to no fault of the pattern at all. I made some bad decisions along the way plus the fitting was extensive. But I just hate on giving up on a project, especially when I think the end product can be really cute. Plus, when I had made it as far as zipper and hem left there was no way I was giving up.

Belladone (1)


The pattern is Deer & Doe’s Belladone dress which has already made several rounds in sewing blogs with its popular back cut up and the greatly shaped skirt. I like that it is printed on sturdy paper for easy tracing (team trace FTW!) and subsequent storage. The instructions are quite brief, but I like them. I’d rather have brief instructions and refer to reference book than long instructions. There are pictures to help to. What I don’t like about the instructions was that English automatically meant imperial measurements. Since it was a pattern drafted in metric, couldn’t we just once get the metric measurements? So I had both sets of instructions – English and French – up, since the French had the metric.

After two muslins of the front bodice and three of the back I finally got a fit that could go on the wearable muslin. There are still some things I’d change, though. All in all the following was made: I cut a size 40, made a 3 cm FBA while lowering the bust darts 2 cm, lengthened the bodice 5 cm, took of a wedge of 6 cm (per side) in the diagonal cut of the lower back bodice and made the overlap in the neck wider. Whew!

Belladone (24)
I’m quite happy with the fit (and I should be, it took me five muslins to get here)

What did me in was my decision to face the waistband. I was worried that it would distort so I added an interfaced self-facing. And it all went downhill from there. There was no problem adding the facing per say, but the added bulk was. I inserted the zipper and it wouldn’t go up due to the bulkiness. I had to cut back the facing so it wouldn’t be caught in the zipper seam and finish it on spot since the fabric was prone to fraying. Also I had sewed something crocked and the waistband didn’t align along the zipper, since I’d rather have a sharp V at the top. I think I took out and re-sewed the zipper at least 5 times, maybe more.

Belladone (16)
Wrinkles come from wearing the dress all day


The fabric is a cotton pique from Stoff och Stil. I like the colour and that it is a solid with an interesting texture. I found some black bias tape in my stash and used that as binding. I had meant to use contrast on the armholes and neckline as well, but sewed it on in the wrong way and didn’t bother changing it.

The pattern was great to work with and I see myself using it again, both as it, but perhaps also as a skirt or omit the back overlap and just do the deep v-back (while widening the shoulders of the back bodice). I like the shape of the skirt, the pockets, the hem facing and, of course, the back cutout. For the next time I will change a few things, obviously. I probably won’t face the waistband (and forever dread distorting) and I will sew the neckline last to know how much overlap I need. I had a pretty good fit in my muslin, but now it gapes, so I’ll save it for last next time. I’ll also pay more attention to hopefully get a matched up waistband. Luckily, since this is a solid, I think I can get away with the un-matching waistband and hide it behind a belt, but the neck gape bothers me, I’ll might try and fix that.

Belladone (17)
Still, in the end, I’m happy with my dress


In the end, a cute dress, and it shows my knees (apparently my husband thinks I should wear this length more often). I’m really glad I did this wearable muslin, had this been with my good fabric, which also requires print matching, it would have ended in a disaster. Now I’m prepared to handle my good fabric, wish me luck!

Månadens tema i The Monthly Stitch-gruppen är “två” eftersom gruppen fyller 2 år i augusti. Jag har något speciellt planerat för detta tillfälle och eftersom det är lite speciellt ville jag gör ett välarbetat plagg, vilket är vad som för mig till denna kreation; den användbara toilen.

Jag kan direkt säga att denna klänning var hemsk att sy – och det var inte mönstrets fel i det minsta. Jag tog några dåliga beslut och jag fick jobba mycket på passformen av klänningen. Men, jag hatar att ge upp ett projekt, speciellt när jag tror att jag verkligen kan gilla slutprodukten. Dessutom, när jag bara hade blixtlåset och fållen kvar så skulle jag i mål, inte en chans att jag ger upp så nära mållinjen.

Mönstret är Belladone från Deer &Doe, ett mönster som länge har snurrat runt på sömnadsbloggar med sin populära rygg och snyggt formade kjol. Jag gillar att pappret är ordentligt eftersom jag alltid ritar av mönstret på eget papper. Instruktionerna är kortfattade, men jag gillar dem. Jag har hellre korta instruktioner och en referensbok tillhanda än långdragna instruktioner, dessutom finns en del bilder som visar de viktiga momenten. Vad jag inte gillar i instruktionerna är att engelska automatiskt innebär brittiska måttenheter. Eftersom mönstret faktiskt är ritat i SI-enheter kan vi inte för en gångs skulle få ett mönster på engelska med enheter i meter? Istället använde jag båda uppsättningarna av instruktioner – franska och engelska – eftersom den franska hade SI-enheter.

Efter två toiler av livet fram och tre av livet bak fick jag äntligen en passform som jag tog vidare till det användbara provplagget. Det finns fortfarande lite att ändra dock. Slutligen gjorde jag följande: Jag började med storlek 40, gjorde 3 cm FBA samtidigt som jag sänkte inprovningarna två cm och förlängde livet med 5 cm. Ur livet back tog jag bort 6 cm (per sida) i v-ringningen och överlappade bitarna i nacken mer. Pust!

Det som gjorde plagget svårsytt var mitt beslut att fodra linningen. Jag oroade mig att tyget skulle vrida sig ur form, så jag lade till ett foder med mellanlägg. Och sen gick det utför. Att lägga till fodringen var inget problem i sig, men volymen som lades till i sömmarna var. Jag sydde i mitt osynliga blixtlås och jag kunde inte dra det förbi linningen, det var för mycket tyg där. Jag fick klippa tillbaks fodringen och försöka sicksacka det på plats eftersom tygerna gärna repade upp sig. Dessutom hade något blivit snett i processen så linningen är inte helt rak där bak, jag satsade på ett bra V i ringningen istället. Totalt tror jag att jag sydde och tog ut blixtlåset minst 5 gånger, kanske fler.

Tyget är bomullspiké från Stoff och stil. Jag gillar färgen och att det är ett enfärgat tyg men med lite struktur. Jag hitta svart snedslå i mina gömmor och använde det som infodring. Först hade jag tänkt att göra även armhålen och ringningen med kontrast, men jag sydde på det fel och orkade inte ändra det.

Mönstret var bra att arbeta med och jag kan se mig använda det igen, både som det är, men kanske också bara kjolen, eller ta bort den övre delen på livet back och bara göra den djupa v-ringningen. Jag gillar formen på kjolen, fickorna, fållinfodringen och, givetvis, den öppna ryggen. Nästa gång kommer jag att ändra på en del saker, naturligtvis kommer jag inte att fodra linningen (och för alltid befara att den drar sig) och jag kommer att sy halsringningen sist för att anpassa hur mycket överlappning som behövs. Detta plagg passar rätt bra, men halsringen gapar lite så det är bara att spara till sist, en enkel ändring. Jag ska också vara mer noggrann så att linningen blir rak där bak. Som tur är, eftersom detta är ett enfärgat tyg, kan jag komma undan med det och gömma det bakom ett skärp, men den glipande halsen stör mig, får se om jag gör något åt det.

Slutligen så blev det en härlig klänningen och den visar mina knän (uppenbarligen tycker min man att jag ska bära lite kortare kjolar mer ofta). Jag är verkligen nöjd med beslutet att göra ett helt provplagg, hade detta varit i mitt fina tyg, som dessutom kräver mönsterpassning, skulle det ha slutat i katastrof. Nu känner jag mig redo att tackla det fina tyget, önska mig lycka till!

Creation: Colette Hawthorn Dress

I’m not the person to instantly buy a new pattern when it’s released. I’d rather wait and see the pattern made up by various sewers before I buy it, therefor I am always late to the pattern party. So now, two years after its release, I have finally joined the Hawthorn bandwagon. It is also one of my two makes for “One Pattern, Two Ways” in Indie Pattern Month.

Me and my two Hawthorns
Me and my two Hawthorns

According to my measurements I hit all the numbers for the size 8. Yet I had to add a 2 cm FBA (1 cm per side). Pattern drafting and pattern maths are things I will never understand. I followed the FBA tutorial on and added an extra side dart. After that I proceeded to split the waist dart in two. I really like the fit of this dress, the bodice could be a smidgen shorter, but I won’t beat myself up about it.

Bodice with plenty of darts
Bodice with plenty of darts

The fabric is a ripstop (which says nothing to me), a 50/50 blend of cotton and polyester. I like the colour and the small print of the pattern, subtle but it keeps the fabric from become boring. It pressed well and was easy to work with. The oddest thing about this fabric however, is that it was actually bought with a Hawthorn in mind! It’s been sitting in my pile for almost a year and in the end it became the dress it was intended. Isn’t that amazing!? The buttons are mother of pearl. Hawthorn dress (12) The pattern was quite easy to follow, and I made my first tower placket and cuff. They’re not perfect but for my first attempt I’m very satisfied. I really liked the fold lines on the pattern piece for the placket, which made the whole thing easier, and the pictures on the sewalong really helped a lot.

My very first placket and cuff!
My very first placket and cuff! (Maybe I forgot one stitch line?)

This is a perfect transition piece, great for work in those in between seasons. It got its first wear at the horse race track for their annual family day on Ascension Day. Carousels, taco lunch, pony rides and horse betting, it really is fun for the whole family! Especially fun when I put 10 SEK (€1.07) on Mr. Gorgonzola, just because I loved that name, and that cheesy sounding horse (pun fully intended) won and gave me 347 SEK (€37) back. Thank you Mr. Gorgonzola!


Can you tell I’m really pleased with my new dress? Putting an effort into fitting, something I never did before, really pays off.

Perfect twirl dress!
Perfect twirl dress!

    Som en del av The Monthly Stitch’s Indie Pattern Month har jag sytt en Hawthorn-klänning. Tyget är ripstop (50/50 bomull/polyester) från Stoff och Stil. Trots att mina mått föll précis på storlek 8 var jag tvungen att göra en FBA på 2 cm (jag kommer aldrig att förstå mönster-matte), vilket gjorde att jag lade till en sidinprovning, dessutom delade jag midjeinprovningen i två. Klänningen bar jag första gången på Jägersros familjedag där hästen Mr. Gorgonzola sprang in 347 kr på min satsade tia. Härlig klänning att bära och storvinst på travet blev en väldigt glad Helena!