Category Archives: Top

2019 and 2020, Top 5 and Lookaheads

The sewing community is overflowing with wrap-ups of the previous year and decade as well as lookaheads to the new. I’ll join in, I like making book ends (heck, I have a whole spreadsheet dedicated to my creations and charts over pattern companies and types of garments, as well as one whole spreadsheet dedicated to my fabric stash). So first: The Numbers!

I made 40 sewing projects last year, of which 8 were for the kids, 1 was a bag and one was a cutlery wrap. Having identified a dress gap in my wardrobe I made many dresses this year, most of which get heavy rotation. I worked with 11 different pattern companies, Burda and Allt om handarbete were the 2 clear winners due to my collection of those magazines. However, the Allt om handarbete block is not a good match for me and to be honest their patterns are a bit boring so for next year I doubt they’ll be featured much.

Now, let’s look at some pretty clothes, shall we? I’ve already presented my bottom 5 of the year, so obviously it’s time for my top 5 of 2019! In chronological order:

1. Woman Dress

I bought this fabric in the autumn of 2018 and on March 6th I scrambled to make the dress so it could be worn on International Women’s day 2 days later. After contemplating many patterns, I’m really glad I went for a simple design to showcase those big Venus-signs. I’m also really glad that the despite the time crunch I was sewing this dress in, I pattern-matched the sides and avoided putting two big circles on my boobs. Whenever I wear this dress, it always garners plenty of attention.

 

 

 

 

2. Red maxi skirt

Ever since making the Belladone by Deer and Doe a few years back, I’ve been wanting to make a maxi skirt using that pattern. This spring I finally did, with a heavy but flowy viscose bought from Ohlssons and buttons from my mum’s stash. I must have ended up mis-counting, because the waist ended up much bigger than anticipated, so the pleats are quite deep. But I loved wearing this skirt over summer.

 

 

 

 

3. Blue-striped Reglisse

Both the fabric and the pattern for this project was bought for Black Friday 2018 and sewn up less than six months later! I’ve also made a less successful wearable muslin, but I fear that it will leave my closet soon. With this one I took care with the stripe-matching and it paid off well. I have lengthened the bodice and the skirt and raised the armhole a bit as well as making a bit smaller, making this sundress pattern appropriate for the office, as shown by the fact that this is the dress I chose to wear for my word ID badge.

 

 

 

 

4. The Lego shirts

I have a whole post dedicated to these, so go there for details. They are just really fun to wear!

 

 

 

 

 

5. My first ever coat

I invested a lot of time and money into this coat and luckily it paid off. I love how it looks, the fact that I managed to find a red non-wool fabric for it, the quilted lining, everything. Plus I wear it pretty much every day in the winter so it is in constant rotation!

 

 

 

 

As for the upcoming year, I don’t want to set any major goals, but rather guidelines. I will continue to sew with a plan, in which I’ll make a 4-7 piece plan for each season and try to stick to it. Sometimes, there isn’t enough time or priorities shift, but I’m at that point where my plans are filling gaps in my wardrobe, rather than building it. So, my own guidelines for the plans I make this year will be:

1.Use what I have

I have a pretty big stash with fabric for most type of clothing. For each plan I am allowed to buy new fabric only if an identified gap needs it (for example, in my upcoming spring plan I am making a pair of trousers. I had no suitable fabric so I bought for that. For a shirt tunic I’m making I must use something that was already in the stash). I start the year with 83,5 meters of fabric, let’s see where I end up.

This also applies to patterns, that I will try to use what I have instead of buying new.

2. Refashion

I have some hand-made garments at home that could use some attention to make them better (Exhibit A). For each plan I will try to add a refashion that would make some less-loved garments into more-loved, or at least have them die in the process of trying.

3. Sell things I won’t use

This relates mostly to fabrics and patterns. You know we’ve all bought some fabric and then realized it wasn’t our style or something or patterns that really only have one make in them. I hope someone will like what I have and take some things off my chest.

Long post, so congrats if you’ve made it to the end!

 

 

2019 Sewing Bottom 5

As I only reopened this blog in October this year, I have made a lot of things that has not been recorded on the internet, save for Instagram. But here’s the drawback of Instagram, try finding those things again. Plus, when originally posted we tend to look at our projects with those “new love” eyes, whereas the true opinion of something comes with wear, or in the case of clothes, non-wear. In that respect maybe the misses are more interesting than the hits and I will begin with those.

Toto, green corduroy skirt

Wrinkles galore, corduroy is tricky to press.

Before making this skirt, I researched it on the internets, as I always do. That big pleat in the front was quite a divider among those who had sewn it, but I liked the cool-ness it gave the skirt. However, I either measured wrong, traced wrong or the sizing’s off because this skirt ended up way too big. I can keep it up with a belt, but this creates this minor paper bag waist that is too small to look intentional. I’m not sure how to take this one in because of the slanted pockets and kick pleat in the back. Pattern from Jenny Hellström Ruas’ book Sy! Från hood till skjortkänning

Green v-neck top

I like the colour, but not sure about the rest, I think I need a dart for these types of tops

As with many of the clothes that I don’t end up wearing, I usually like the idea of something. With this, dart-less simple top from a Fashion Style Magazine (hate that name, but I digress) I thought it would give me a cool vibe and more comfort in the fact that not all clothes need to be fitted. I probably should have made some sort of dart less FBA on this top as it keeps on riding down, making that V a bit indecent, especially for work. Plus it’s a bit short on me. At first I really liked it and figured I could make a more fancy top in a cupro, now I’m glad I didn’t jump to that gun, so my cupro can be saved for something else.

Deck of cards top

Only picture I could find to represent this project. The lack of shape should have been obvious to me from the drawing.

In need for some more knit tops I picked up this ponte from the remnant bin at Stoff och Stil. It’s not polka dots, but rather the  suits of a deck. The fabric piece I had was small, so it was hard to find a pattern and then I needed some creative cutting. I had a hard time finding a pattern and settled on a top with a yoke. I made no effort to compensate for the fact that my pattern had sleeves whereas I sewed it sleeveless which shows. Plus it could stand to be a bit more fitted, now it kind of just hangs.

White and silver blouse

Too bulky. But I like the heart on the belt, that’s a keeper!

Another case where I tried a new to me silhouette. It wasn’t a perfect fabric-to-pattern match as the seersucker is a bit stiff. As it was a Burda pattern, I couldn’t quite figure out how to sew the placket correctly and I assumed that it was elastic creating the gathers in the neckline. It wasn’t. You sew basting stitches, gather and then create some pouf by adding a piece of fabric with the neckline fabric and self-facing. Quite an odd method. I don’t really like wearing this blouse, the shape is off and it’s too high in the neck for my comfort.

Coral zipper trousers

I still wear them and they’re awesome with my Lego shirt, but the fit is so off

I need more trousers in my wardrobe. Period. I wanted to add some colourful ones, and there ones fit that bill. I also like all the zipper details and the pocket in the back is a patch pocket/welt pocket sort of hybrid with a zipper thrown in for good measure. It was my second pair of trousers from the Allt om handarbete magazine this year and now I’ve come to realise that their block just don’t fit me. In no way I am saying I expect a good fit right off the pattern sheet, but these are pretty far off and for example Burdastyle would be a better starting point for me. So while I love the trousers in theory – the colour! the zippers! – in  practice they just don’t get worn a lot.

 

During my Christmas holidays (18 days without work!) I plan to do a serious wardrobe purge and cleaning. I think my wardrobe will feel empty, but it’ll be the clothes I wear, as opposed to just hanging there for decoration. I’ve said this many times before, so we’ll see how it goes once I face the fact.

Sewn: Really Awesome T-shirts

We surprised the kids with a trip to Legoland this summer I wanted to add an additional surprise to make them dress properly for the occasion. On the second day of our Legoland stay the kids took on the park in colourful attire and received plenty of attention. I did not wear any of my Lego-shirts in the park (the jersey was too thick for the heat we had).

Two kids dressed as kids

Legoland is not that big and the two days we spent there were more than enough. The rides were just big and scary enough for the two kids (ages 6&9) and not too childish for us adults. My favourite ride was the pirate boats where all riders and spectators could shoot water at each and getting soaked was quite nice in the 30-ish degree weather we had. Plus the attention to Lego details is so good, I was really impressed. Big Lego-blocks outside, Lego-decorations in the hotel room at Legoland hotel, signs in Lego and my favourite: French fries at the buffet as Legos.

We ran into Emmet Brickowski in the Lego store, appropriately dressed.

I used generic t-shirt patterns for the kids, from Burda and Allt om handarbete, but don’t ask me to recite a pattern number or even the magazine issue. Like I said, generic t-shirt patterns. The armscye on Gustav’s t-shirt came out a bit too big and the sleeve hem allowance too small, so the sleeves are not perfect, but he is still constantly wearing the t-shirt, when it’s not in the wash that is. Erika also likes hers, but with so much to choose from in her wardrobe the Lego shirt is not selected that often. Maybe I need to turn it right side out since the back is white and she might not see it…

Dressed for work. I also made those trousers, but they deserve a post of their own.

All the tops were sewn up pretty quickly since they were fairly basic patterns. Although, by the end of project Lego t-shirts I was quite fed up with Lego fabric, knit fabrics and assembly line sewing. The t-shirts were well received, I turned a few heads and caused some smiles when I wore the Stella to work, and the Legoland surprise was awesome, cause in Lego Everything is Awesome!

Close up of my top. I really like the shape and fit of this top.

The details

Patterns:

Generic kid t-shirt patterns from Burda and/or Allt om handarbete
Stella T-shirt from Jenny Hellström’s book Sy! Från hood till skjortklänning
Sleeveless top, Allt om handarbete 104-04-2019

Fabric:

Klossar (blocks) from Jofotex. Yes, they are called Blocks as it is not copyright Lego fabric. Like when the Simpsons went to Blockoland.

 

Creation: Tiramisu Top

For my spring plan I wanted a t-shirt-like top, without its being an actual t-shirt. I had stumbled across M1khaela’s alteration of Cake’s Tiramisu dress into a top. The Tiramisu dress went rounds around sewing blogs and I bought the pattern a few years ago, but I’ve never sewn it, probably due to a combination of the massive amount of fabric it takes (anything over 2 m is “massive” in my book) and the unusual sizing system. This meant that I didn’t know what to expect in terms of fit and to spend a “massive amount” of fabric of something I didn’t know how it would fit was off-putting. Seeing M1khaela’s version was a good compromise.

Till min vårplan ville jag ha en t-shirt-liknande topp, utan att det var en t-shirt. Jag hade sett M1khaelas ändring av Cakes Tiramisu-klänning till en topp. Tiramisu har gjort vändor i sybloggarna och jag köpte mönstret för några år sedan, men har aldrig sytt det, antagligen en kombination av att det krävs mängder av tyg (allt över 2m är ”mängder” för mig) och det ovanliga storleksystemet. Detta innebar att jag inte visste vad jag kunde vänta mig utifrån passform och jag gillade inte idén att lägga ”mängder” tyg på något som jag inte visste hur det skulle passa. M1khaelas version var en bra kompromiss.

Tiramisu Top (3)

I’m not very familiar with knit fabrics. Stoff och Stil mostly carry heavier cotton and/or polyester knits, sometimes with extra lycra. I feel that they are sometimes too heavy for t-shirts, especially those that are to be worn I warmer weather. On one of my trips I came across this cotton single jersey and liked the feel and weight of it so I decided to test it.

Jag är inte jättebra på trikåtyger. Stoff och stil tycker jag mest har tunga bomulls- och/eller polyestertrikåer, ibland med extra lycra. Jag tycker att de känns för tunga för t-shirtar, speciellt dem som ska bäras i varmare väder. Vid ett av mina besök hittade jag detta singeljersey i bomull och jag gillade både hur det kändes och vikten, så jag köpte för att testa.

To be honest I didn’t enjoy working with the Tiramisu pattern and the final garment isn’t as it’s supposed to be. I chose the 35D, despite my high bust measurement suggesting I should do a 30, but if I did a 30 my full bust measurement was off the chart, so I compromised. I don’t know if this was what caused my fitting issues. When I aligned the center fronts, I found the cut to be lower than indicated and the gathers were not in the right place. After a lot of basting and fiddling with fit I ignored the gathers and let the shape of the top come from the stretchy quality of the fabric instead of shaping. It’s not perfect, but it was the best I managed to do as to get the right fit and not have a too low cut cleavage as I don’t want to wear anything underneath.

För att vara ärlig så gillade jag inte att arbeta med Tiramisu-mönstret och slutproduktionen är inte såsom det är tänkt att vara. Jag valde 35D, trots att mitt höga bystmått sade 30, men om jag gjorde 30 så var det vanliga bystmåttet inte med, jag kompromissade. Jag vet inte om det var detta som orsakade mina problem med passformen. När jag matchade mitt fram, tyckte jag att urringingen var djupare än vad den tekniska ritningen visade och rynket var inte på rätt ställe. Efter massa tråcklande och försök att få toppen att passa, valde jag att ignorera rynkningen och låta toppens form komma från tygets stretchegenskaper istället för att forma det. Det är inte perfekt, men det var det bästa jag kunde åstadkomma för att få en bra passform och samtidigt inte ha en för djup ringning, eftersom jag inte vill bära något under.

Tiramisu Top (5)

I am aware that the instructions for Cake patterns are written with a beginner in mind. But it was something about the writing voice that didn’t appeal to me. I can’t quite put my finger on it, but I’m noticing that lately I prefer short, concise instructions over too detailed instructions. I’m at that point in my sewing where I don’t need to be told every time when to finish and press a seam, I know when to do it. Right now I just want to be told the order in which the seams go together and a bit more details at harder part, if not then I have a good reference book and, of course, the whole internet at my disposal. While I understand the need for detailed instructions I now know that they are not for me anymore.

Jag är medveten om att Cakes instruktioner är skriva för nybörjare. Men något i dem tilltalade inte mig. Jag kan inte sätta fingret på det, men på sistone har jag märkt att jag föredrar kortfattade instruktioner över de med många detaljer. Jag har nått till en punkt i min sömnad där jag inte behöver veta varje gång jag ska sicksacka och pressa en söm, jag vet när det ska göras. Nu vill jag bara att instruktionerna ska berätta i vilken ordning sömmarna ska sys, kanske lite mer detaljer för svårare delar, om inte så jag har en bra referensbok och, givetvis, hela internet till min förfogan. Jag förstår att det finns en efterfrågan på detaljerade instruktioner, men jag vet också att de är inte för mig längre.

At first glance over reviews of the Tiramisu dresses, it seems as most are positive and recommend the pattern. However, when I went deeper into them, it seemed like many people didn’t get a good “out of the envelope”-fit, but were quite happy with the fit after some tweakin. Still, the final fit of the dresses were attributed to the pattern. Like Peeta Mellark* I find myself asking “Real or not real?” when trying to judge whether good fit results is an outcome of the pattern or of personal alterations.

Vid första anblicken av recensioner av Tiramisu, verkar många positiva sådana och nästan alla rekommenderar mönstret. Men när jag gjorde en djupdykning in i dem, verkade som om många inte alls fick en bra passform direkt, utan var nöjda först efter manipulation av bitarna. Oftast så var det dock mönstret som tillskrevs den bra passformen. Likt Peeta Mellark* frågar jag mig själv ”sant eller inte sant?” när jag försöker bedöma om bra passform beror på mönstret eller personliga ändringar.

In the end I like the shape of the top on me and I love the fabric, but if I were to recreate it, I doubt I would use the Tiramisu pattern. One detail I did like about the pattern was the stripe placements lines, such an easy way to get good results. But, aside from the yummy Italian dessert, I don’t see any Tiramisus in my future. And while I do see cake, I just don’t see the pattern kind. It’s just not for me and the Cake collection doesn’t entice me so much that I will get around to learning their custom sizing system. There are other patterns for me.

I slutänden gillar jag toppens siluett på mig och jag älskar tyget, men om jag skulle återskapa den tvivlar jag på att jag skulle använda Tiramisu-mönstret. En sak som jag gillade med mönstret var riktlinjen för att placera ränder, ett så enkelt sätt att få bra resultat. Men, förutom den goda italienska desserten, ser jag inga Tiramisuer i min framtid. Och fast jag ser mer kakor ser jag inte mönstervarianten. Det är inte för mig och Cakes kollektion lockar mig inte tillräckligt för att jag ska orka lära mig deras storlekssystem. Det finns andra mönster för mig.

*I’ve currently read The Hunger Games Trilogy and loving it! I’m always a bit behind on book and movie trends (expect Twilight, actually, but that’s a different story). Apparently I’m also a bit behind on sewing trends as I am just now sewing up the Tiramisu pattern. Ah, well, it doesn’t bother me at all.

*Jag har precis läst Hungerspelstrilogin och älskar den! Jag är alltid lite efter med bok- och filmtrender (förutom Twilight, faktiskt, men det är en annan historia). Uppenbarligen är jag också lite efter sytrenderna eftersom jag just nu har sytt Tiramisu. Jaja, det stör inte mig.

SWAP 2015 Winter

I decided to start sewing with a plan in October and I’m quite happy to present my finished plan. Sure, the finished garments might not look like the plan I put up back then, seeing how both fabrics and garments have been replaced, but still it’s six garments I can mix and match. Now, since the light is non-existent this time of the year I decided to do a photo shoot on the floor, using my cell phone so I could use the collage app. Hello, my name is Helena and I’m not very tech savvy at all. I’d rather focus my attention to detail on my sewing rather than my photography and editing.

 

The plan:

image

 

The result:
image

 

I kept the colour scheme and most garments were made. I like to think that this pieces mix and match well, and I like the way of planning my sewing. Now, onto spring sewing and Learning how to make mix and match pieces, the plan will come soon!

Multicoloured top and bordeaux skirt
The Dexy sweatshirt
Scuba top and skirt
Folded yoke blouse

 

Jag började sy med en plan i oktober, så nu kan jag glatt presentera mitt resultat. Det kan vara så att plaggen i slutändan inte riktigt är samma som jag hade i min plan, då både plagg och tyger har ändrats, men jag har ändå sex plagg som matchar varandra. Eftersom det inte finns så mycket ljus så här års har jag bara tagit bilder på golvet för att kunna göra ett collage i en app. Jag heter Helena och jag kan inte det här med teknik. Jag lägger hellre min tid och detaljtänk på att sy än att redigera foton.

Jag har behållit färgerna från ursprungsplanen och de flesta av plaggen i den har sytts. Jag vill tro att dessa plagg kan bäras tillsammans och jag gillar att planera min sömnad. Snart kommer vårplanen!

Multifärgad top och bordeauxfärgad kjol
Dexy-tröjan
Scuba-topp och Scuba-kjol
Blus med nervikt ok.

Creations: Scuba Set

Behold the final garments of my winter plan! A scuba set (yeah, I told you  I wanted more scuba). One of those “sew two, get three” set since the idea is that the pieces can be worn together or separately with other items.

scuba set (3)

If you look at the winter plan there is no scuba set on it. This can be a good time to tell you that the jacquard set I have on the plan will never be seen. After making the scuba dress I was coveting more scuba and the jacquard fabric I had chosen on the plan didn’t feel very nice in the store, so I chose the scuba instead. Maybe I did try to find something wrong with the jacquard just so I could buy the scuba, but the wrong side did just not feel very nice and it wasn’t something I’d like to put on my skin. I successfully convinced myself that scuba was the better choice.

scuba set (8)

However, I had picked out a skirt and a cardigan to sew and neither of these pieces is that skirt or that cardigan. First I figured the scuba would be too heavy for a cardigan so I made the peplum top instead. I have this doubt in my mind that it won’t stand the test of time, but I’m hoping it won’t be too dated anytime soon. The pattern is Simplicity 1539, used for the fourth time this year but, for the first time I made it as it’s supposed to be, peplum and all! It wasn’t really hard to sew. Using a super-stretchy fabric just means no basting is needed to ease the sleeve head and even hemming a half circle peplum isn’t an issue, just stretch and no bulges will appear (I hate hemming circle/half circles for that reason). As for the sleeve length, I did imagine ¾ length, but cut them long just so I could postpone my decision. Then I accidentally cut a hole in the bottom of one sleeve, effectively telling me to use a shorter length, even though I don’t know what this length would qualify as. ¾, 7/8? I honestly have no clue. All I know is that they are a length I like.

scuba set (15)

For the skirt, I thought of a slight A-line shape, since it’s a shape I like to wear. Sometimes it’s just that easy. I had planned on a skirt from Burda Easy FW2015, but when I got the magazine I noticed that while it was shaped with panels in the front, it had darts in the back and I thought darts would be too bulky in the scuba. Instead I used the skirt from the Burdastyle Sewing Handbook. It’s designed for a woven and while the skirt part worked out OK, I’m not completely happy with the waistband, since I didn’t know how to assemble it in a knit that cannot be ironed. It’s a bit wonky, so I must wear it with something untucked so it won’t be seen. I do love the shape and length of the skirt, though.

Holding in to make pencil skirt
Holding in to make pencil skirt

Although I did sew the pieces to go together as a set, I’m not sure that the silhouettes go together very well. I think that the peplum would be better served with a pencil skirt rather than A-line. I think I have enough fabric to make a knit pencil skirt so I might sew that in the future. This is also why I never re-did my wonky waistband, I’d rather save the fabric for a whole new garment than correct the waistband.

Twirl!
Twirl!

I have now successfully completed my first plan, and have some time for unplanned sewing until it’s spring plan time. The spring plan is to be presented in late January and completed in late March. The wardrobe planning group I’m in on Facebook holds you to it, if you don’t present a plan and what you sewed you get kicked out. Tough rules, but I like them, they keep me focused. So now it’s time to begin planning what to wear in the spring.

 

Att skåda: de två sista plaggen i min vinterplan! Ett set i scuba (ja, jag sade att jag ville ha mer scuba). Ett set i ”sy två, få tre”-anda eftersom plaggen kan bäras tillsammans eller var för sig med andra plagg.

 

Om en tittar noggrant på vinterplanen är det lätt att se att där är inget scubaset i den. Jag kan också passa på att säga att jacquardsetet på planen aldrig kommer att ses. Efter att jag hade sytt scubaklänningen ville jag ha mer av det och jacquardtyget jag hade i min plan kändes inte så trevligt, däfrör valde jag scuba istället. Det kanske var så att jag medvetet försökte hitta fel på jacquarden så att jag skulle få köpa det tyg jag egentligen ville ha, men avigan kändes helt enkelt inte som något jag skulle vilja ha emot min hud. Jag lyckades alltså övertyga mig själv om att scuba var ett bättre val.

 

Inte heller är den cardigan eller kjol i min plan de plagg som jag faktiskt sydde. Scuban var för tung för att bli en cardigan, så jag gjorde toppen med skört istället. Jag har lite tvivel att den kanske kommer att kännas lite ”tidigt 10-tal” om några år, men förhoppningsvis inte alltför snart. Mönstret är Simplicity 1539 i sin fjärde reinkarnation detta år, men för första gången har jag gjort den enligt mönstret, med skört. Den var inte alls svår att sy och med ett så stretchigt tyg behövs inga tråckeltrådar för att hålla in ärmkullen och att sy en fåll i en halvcirkel med stretch är inte heller svårt, bara dra i tyget tills det ligger plant (jag hatar annars att fålla cirkel- och halvcirkelkjolar av den anledningen). Angående ärmlängden tänkte jag först 3/4-ärmar, men klippte ut dem långa för att kunna skjuta upp beslutet. Sen råkade jag klippa ett hål i ena ärmen, vilket gjorde att jag fick använda denna längd. Vad är denna längd? ¾? 7/8? Jag har ingen aning, men jag gillar längden de blev.

 

Till kjolen var planen en A-linjekjol, det är en siluett jag gillar att bära. Ibland är det bara så enkelt. Planen var en kjol från Burda Easy HV2015, men när jag fick tidningen såg jag att även om den hade paneler fram var det inprovningar och de skulle nog inte bli bra i det tjocka scuba-tyget. Istället blev det kjolen från Burdastyle’s Sewing Handbook. Den är designad för ett vävt tyg och själva kjoldelen blev bra, men linningen är jag inte helt nöjd med eftersom jag inte visste hur jag skulle sy den i ett stickat tyg som dessutom inte kan strykas. Den är lite skev, så jag måste bära något över som döljer detta. Jag älskar dock siluetten och längden på kjolen.

 

Även om jag sydde båda plaggen att matcha som ett set är jag inte helt säker på att siluetterna funkar helt bra. Skörtet skulle nog göra sig bättre med en pennkjol än en A-linjekjol. Jag tror att jag har tillräckligt med tyg för även en pennkjol, så det kanske dyker upp i framtiden. Detta är också anledningen till varför jag inte gjorde om linningen, jag sparar hellre tyget till ett nytt plagg än att rätta till linningen.

 

Min första plan är nu helt komplett, så jag har tid för lite oplanerad sömnad tills det är dags för vårplanen. Den ska presenteras sent i januari och vara klar i slutet av mars. Sy garderoben med en plan-gruppen på Facebook har höga krav, om du inte presenterar en plan och resultatet åker du ut. Hårda regler, men jag gillar dem då de hjälper mig att hålla fokus. Så nu är det dags att planera vad jag ska bära i vår.

 

 

Creations: Bordeaux Mini Skirt and Multi-Coloured Top

Inlägget finns på svenska längre ner

After my holiday in Italy it seemed like such a big hurdle to get sewing again. I had no ongoing project, I had loads and loads of plans but nothing enticed me, I had to take out the machine again. Plus the normal things of getting back in routine, planning dinners, catching up on laundry. In the midst of everything I had also planned a sewing meet-up, which was great for getting inspiration flowing again!

Therefore I can now present two garments from my Winter plan! A skirt in a burgundy red twill and a simple knit top in a variety of colour. Both pieces work both for the office, on a casual day, and at home. Perfect!

New outfit
New outfit

For the skirt I used the same pattern as for my denim mini skirt, 3A from Burda Easy FW2014. This skirt is so easy to wear and still have an interesting shape due to the shaped seam lines. I took my time with the waistband, under-stitching and ditch-stitching, plus I used the method from Colette’s Clover pant to conceal the zipper, it makes for a very neat finish! Or would have had I not sewn a little bit too close to the zipper so it won’t do up all the way. Plus, I accidentally put the zipper in the right side seam. No biggie, right, but it has happened that I put the skirt on back-to-front before remembering my mishap.

Zipper in the right side seam... oops!
Zipper in the right side seam… oops!

The top is in a viscose knit. It’s lighter than a usual viscose knit and not as drape-y, plus is has a wrinkled texture to it. I like all of these things, since the top is not clingy and it has some interest. I used Simplicity 1539 as a base (from my bow top and Scuba dress), it could have been a bit longer, but other than that it fits me fine, grading from a 10 in the shoulders, 12 over the chest and 10 again in the waist. Perfect! I finished the neckline, which I’ve lowered a bit, with a band and the hems are just simple fold-over hems.

I wanted to sew the whole top, or as much of it as possible, on the over-locker, but we’re not exactly friends at the moment. The looper threads keep breaking (it’s either one or the other. Sometimes both) so now I will set aside some time for studying threading in detail, since I think that’s where the problem lies.

Concealed zipper
Concealed zipper

Now, did you click the link to my winter plan in the beginning of the post? Did you realise that nowhere on that plan is there a mini skirt in twill but rather pants in said twill? I did make pants, I did work on fitting them better. However, they fit too well and are now way too tight. But that’s a subject for another post.

Nice curved seams
Nice curved seams

(Also I do apologise for the dark pictures. It’s a problem all of us in the Northern hemisphere share right now I suppose)

Pattern/Mönster: Skirt/Kjol: Burda Easy FW2014 3A Top/topp: Simplicity 1539 (which I Think is now OOP) – modified

Fabrics/Tyg:

Skirt/Kjol: Stretchtwill, Stoff och Stil (97% cotton, 3% elestan). Printed cotton sheeting for waistband facing.

Top/topp: Viscose jersey/viskosjersey

Notions/Sybehör: Skirt/kjol: Invisible zipper, fusible interfacing. Osynligt blixtlås, påpressbart mellanlägg.

 

Efter semestern i Italien var det ett stort hinder att komma över för att börja sy igen. Jag hade inget pågående projekt, jag hade massa planer men inget lockade, jag var tvungen att plocka fram och ställa i ordning maskinerna. Och alla normala saker av att komma tillbaks till rutinerna, planera mat, tvätta resegarderoberna. Mitt i allt hade jag dessutom planerat en sy-träff, vilket var perfekt för att få igång inspirationen igen

Därför kan jag nu presentera två plagg från min vinterplan! En kjol i bordeauxröd twill och en enkel trikåtröja i massor av färger! Båda plaggen fungerar både för kontoret, när jag vill vara lite ledig och här hemma. Perfekt!

Till kjolen använde jag samma monster som för min minikjol i denim, 3A från Burda Easy HV2014. Kjolen är så enkel att bära och har ändå en intressant form tack vare de kurviga sömmarna. Linningen är jag mycket nöjd med, då jag tog mig tid i både under-stitchingen och ditch-stitchningen (alltså att sy fast linningen mot sömsmånen och sen sy fast underkanten genom att sy en söm i den söm som sätter fast linning och kjol). För att få ett snyggt blixtlås använde jag metoden från Colettes Clover, vilket ger en väldigt snygg omslutning och avslutning av blixtlåset. Synd bara att jag sydde lite för nära blixtlåset så jag kan inte dra upp det hela vägen. Dessutom satte jag det i höger söm istället för vänster, ingen större fara men det händer att kjolen hamnar bakofram innan jag kommer på min miss.

Toppen är i viskosjersey. Den är lättare än vanlig viskosjersey, inte lika draperande och så har den en lite skrynklad textur. Jag gillar alla dessa saker eftersom toppen på så sätt inte klänger på mig så mycket och har något annorlunda med sig. Jag använde Simplicity 1539 som bas (från min rosett-topp och Scuba-klänning), den kunde ha varit lite längre men i övrigt sitter den bra, jag har storlek 10 vid axlar och midjan och 12 över bysten. Perfekt! Ringningen, som jag sänkt något, har jag avslutat med ett band och fållarna är bara vikta.

Jag ville sy så mycket av toppen som möjligt på over-locken, men vi är inte direkt vänner för tillfället. Looper-trådarna går sönder allt som oftast (antingen den ena eller andra. Ibland båda två), så nu kommer jag ta mig tid till att verkligen noggrant studera hur jag ska trä den, för jag tror det är där problemet ligger.

Fråga: tryckte du på länken till min plan I början av inlägget? Såg du att ingenstans på den planen finns det en minikjol i twill, snarare byxor i samma twill? Jag gjorde faktiskt byxor, jag jobbade med passning av dem. Emellertid blev det alldeles för tight passform och de blev oanvändbara. Men det är ett ämne för ett annat inlägg.

(Jag ber om ursäkt för de mörka bilderna. Ett problem för oss alla här uppe i norr, antar jag)

Creation: The Bow Top

As I mentioned previously I’m in a rut of low fabric confidence. I feel that I am getting the hang of wovens, but the knits continue to throw me off my game. I don’t know what different types of knit are, throw words like ITY, interlock and ponte at me and my expression will be that of a question mark. I also haven’t mastered finishing knits and combined with not using the right fabric, well, disaster strikes.

Frumpy Front
Frumpy Front

  I bought the Simplicity 1539 as I love the bow top and think it’s a great twist on a basic knit top. In the remnant bin at the fabric store I found a piece of purple (favourite colour!) interlock, the right amount, and I set out to work on what I thought was a match made in heaven. I made sure to take my time cutting and lining up the pieces. However, in retrospect, some mistakes were made on my part  

Wouldn't be so big in front and back with an FBA.
Wouldn’t be so big in front and back with an FBA.

Mistake 1 – No FBA. Even though I sewed this in February, in the midst of my FBA awakening I lazily thought “well, it’s a knit, it stretches to fit me, right?” WRONG! Well, not completely wrong since it does fit over my chest, but it made the whole top bigger, the sleeves feel particularly big and pyjama-like. With an FBA I would have chosen a smaller size, that would have fitted better everywhere else and been adjusted for the bust. Lesson learnt: Knits may be forgiving in fitting issues, but they can’t work miracles, especially not when too big. I must go down in size and adjust the bust properly.  

Wobbly hem
Wobbly hem

Mistake 2 – Stretching the fabric The overlap for the bow is, obviously, supposed to be hemmed. I did this on my regular machine. It could be that the settings were off or that I stretched the fabric while hemming and the hem turned all wobbly on me. It couldn’t be salvaged at all, but I still went ahead and put it in. It. Does. Not. Look. Good. I didn’t have enough fabric to cut a new piece, but at the very least I could have unpicked that hem or even cut it off to make a new one. But with the rest of the fit issues, it didn’t seem worthwhile. Lessons learnt: I should learn my settings. And not pull the fabric.  

Not flattering. At all. Like the colour though.
Not flattering. At all. Like the colour though.

I finished this top in February and have since worn it… once. For the photo shoot. It sits badly and the whole thing feels very pyjama. Even though interlock is a recommended fabric for this top, I can’t help but feel that it might be a little on the heavy side for this top. Or for any type of clothing require sleekness and shape (considering the fact that I know nothing, nothing, about knits I may very well be wrong. It’s just that this fabric doesn’t feel like something I would wear in a more formal (i.e. my casual office) setting). Bottom line: I need to learn more about knits, how they behave and fabric type to pattern matching. I’m not too keen on my matching interlock to this pattern.   I like the pattern. I have seen lovely versions of it. I am not ready to give up after one failed attempt. (I am not quite sure if I will give interlock a second try though). I like the colour of the fabric. I just need to get to know knits.   Do you acknowledge your sewing fails or are they destined to a dark place never to be spoken of again? I find that sewing blogs always are positive in makes, the bad ones are not blogged, but isn’t it true that we can learn from our mistakes? (BTW, I know that the photography and styling totally sucks, but frankly my dears, I don’t give a damn as I’m not that into this top)

Creation: Cake Tee

Happy  first birthday to The Monthly Stitch! I may have just joined in June for Indie month and have only posted once, but I wanted in on the celebrations as well. We were tasked to sew Cake, in any interpertation we wished.

Starry Cake Tee (1)
Comfy casual Tee

I decided to use the opportunity to break my Cake virginity, by sewing the free Tee pattern. I had never sewed a Cake pattern before and being on team FBA I was intriguied by the sizing system (I have the Tiramisu pattern in my stash, but haven’t sewn it…yet). For this pattern you base the shoulders and kimono sleeves on bust width and then you choose your own length and hip measurements and play connect the dots. Ah, childhood memories. After a Twitter exchange with Steph of Cake, I decided to take in the side seams a bit, so the Tee would get some more shape and not just being straight from bust to hip. I was a bit worried about the fabric bunching up under the arm, but it wasn’t that bad.

No fabric bunching!
No fabric bunching!

Speaking of the fabric, this one is lovely, let me tell you! It’s a cotton jersey from Stoff och Stil’s organic collection in cotton and lycra (too bad the other fabrics from the collection are quite juvenile). It is incredibly soft to wear and a joy to work with now that I’ve mastered the overlocker to the extent where I can actually use it (still need to learn about thread tension and differential feeding better). I usually don’t wear t-shirts to work, but hey there are weekends too and this t-shirt will be perfect for lounging around the house, chasing the kids around. Plus I’ve already established that I need to up my lounging wear.

Finished with hem band at the bottom
Finished with hem band at the bottom

I enjoyed the customable aspect of the pattern. I made the v-neck and was a bit confused by the instructions to do it, mine ended up way wrong. I don’t know if the instructions are lacking or I was just lost in translation (even though I’m pretty fluent in English, sometimes I get lost). But still I liked the pattern and it is perfect for using small pieces of jersey. It is also possible that the Tee might be a little too tight on me, but I don’t mind. I wore it to the kids’ pre-school when I visited with Little E and the kids there didn’t seem to mind either.

The Nap Time T-shirt

I’ve broken in my new overlocker and made myself a t-shirt. I didn’t quite get where and when to use the overlocker and when I couldn’t. So the side seams and the sleeve attatchment is sewn on the overlocker, the gathers, hems and neckband are sewn on my regular machine.T-shirt front The Yay! It was a rather quick project, finished over the course of several nap times for baby E. I can imagine making more of them, long sleeved as well as short sleeved. The t-shirt is comfortable and I like the sleeve gathers. I had some problems getting started on my overlocker, but with this first project I’ve learnt a lot. There is probably much, much more to learn, but I like learning by doing.T-shirt bakc The Meh Being overwhelmed by my overlocker I didn’t even try to do the gathers on it. I used my regular machine. I always find it hard to attach gathers, there’s always somewhere the fabric gets twisted. This is my second sleeve attempt. My first was a mess. I had to restitch the first sleeves so many times and then having three och four sets of overlock stitched on top of each other was very chunky. So, I cut them off and re-set new ones- The first ones were also yellow, I used had a contrast neckband. Since I was re-cutting them anyway I figured I could might as well do contrast sleeves as well as making them long, my first ones were short. The fabric is visocose jersey, so it’s not very comfortable in too much heat anyway.

As I mentioned in my 2013 reflections post   , I tend to take shortcuts. The gathers for this t-shirt was one of those in my mind. I only do one row, even though I know you should do at least two, and then I have issues distributing the gathers evenly, keeping the fabric from rolling, pinning it and I end up spending more time correcting these things than it would have taken to do them properly. Lesson learnt.Sleeve

The Facts Both fabrics are viscose jersey and since they are the same weight it was easy to do the contrast sleeves. I might even make a totally opposite t-shirt later. The only thing else needed was thread, I used cream thread on my overlocker, so I used cream thread on the sewing machine as well. The pattern is Burdastyle 02-2012-127, a great pattern for a raglan tee, I’ve seen it widely used across the blogosphere. The sleeves, as well as the bodice are long, but that’s one of the easier pattern adjustments to make. The neckband is a bit too long for me, if I make it again I will reduced the length of it. Otherwise it’s an easy pattern for a quick t-shirt with a twist. T-shirt sideThe Name The t-shirt was mostly sewn during several of baby E’s naps. As soon as I’d put her down I’d rush to my project to hopefully get at least one hour of work. The Summary I’m pretty pleased with this make. Bold colours, I don’t think anything in my wardrobe is in either colour, and a perfect t-shirt for hanging around the house or doing leisure activities. The inside of the sleeves are a mess though since I had to redo the sleeve seams a few times, but let’s not talk about them anymore and move forward with my lessons learnt. There’s definitely more to learn about my overlocker, this is just the beginning!