Category Archives: Topper

Me-Made-May 2022; Day 13-24

May is moving on and here are my next 12 outfits. For the first half of the month, click here.

Days 13-16

Day 13: Today at work, I just wanted to be comfortable. A t-shirt dress to the resuce!
Wearing: Venus Dress and RTW Cardigan.

Day 14: We had friends over for dinner today and out of context my exclaim that “I hate this time of year” seems off. But in context, it was that we discussed how hard it was to get dressed for these in-between temperatures, especially if you’re leaving the house. You want to go bare-legged, and during the day you can, but in the evening you need to cover your legs and that’s boring. Still, I was at home, so I had more freedom.
Wearing: Purple Aubépine

Day 15: Cleaning up from yesterday’s gathering, biking and sewing a toile for a very exciting project were the items on today’s agenda. The very exciting project? My husband and I are going to attend a ball (!) in Vienna (!!) in August, so today I sewed the first torn bedsheet version of How To Do Fashion’s Marrakesh pattern. I love the neckline and style of the dress and I hope it will look good in the purple taffeta I’ve bought. First toile looks very promising, but I need to ponder it for a while.
Wearing: Covid Briar and unseen shorts (cause they don’t deserve to be seen. Very comfy though).

Day 16: Back to the office after a nice weekend. I stopped by the library to pick up a book I’d booked (Egalia’s Daughters) and took todays photo in the library.
Wearing: Coral Trousers, Striped Wrap top and RTW jacket.

Days 17-20

Day 17: One of my favourite fabric and pattern pairings in a while, and premiere wearing of my recent denim Chardon. This skirt is so lovely!
Wearing: Denim Chardon, Simone T-shirt and RTW jacket.

Day 18: Right before snapping this picture I managed to cut my finger on my key, don’t ask me how, so the pose is a bit awkward. The 1.5 cm cut on my right index finger had just begun to bleed, but I didn’t feel like going inside to take care of it and then going back out for the photo.
Wearing: Green Aubetura and Rhombus trousers

Day 19: Fun day! After work I met my sister and dad for “dinner and a show”. The dinner was delicious tapas and the show was the music of Benny Andersson. Mostly known for being one B of ABBA, his musical deed is so much bigger, covering everything from pop, to musicals, to Swedish folk music. I love listening to live music, and hearing a symphony orchestra, well there’s something special about it. I scoured the internet and found the music sheet for Födelsedagsvals till Mona (birthday valse to Mona (Benny’s wife)), and I hope to learn them over the weekend. It’s such a beautiful piece!
Wearing: Sunshine shirt dress and white zip cardigan. The tights came off later in the day, making this my first bare-legged day out and about.

Day 20: Apparently, I dressed in discarded French military uniform today; blue, white and red. The story, which I was told, was that the French didn’t believe in camouflage, that they would intimidate the enemy just on presence alone, and then they had to make their presence known by dressing in bright colours. I did as well, but not as a not the French military. However, the fit of these trousers is really bothering me, excess fabric in the crotch and too tight over the calves. I was ready to rip them apart, salvaging the zippers and button, but then I was distracted by my recently printed music sheet.
Wearing: Coral Trousers, Denim Datura, White Zip cardigan.

Days 21-24

Day 21: My husband and daughter were away all weekend, my son and I were home together. To both our tastes we did our own things and met for mealtimes. We both enjoyed the day.
Wearing: Pinda Trousers, Eloise Hoodie and T-shirt with bows.

Day 22: The intention was to spend this day in the same manner as yesterday, but since it was my sister’s birthday she invited us to a café for some cake. Can’t say no to that! I got compliments on the dress, specifically the tucks along the bodice and sleeves. I had been worried that they’d get lost in the busy print, but as it turned out; they didn’t.
Wearing: Purple Aubépine and RTW denim jacket

Day 23: Despite better judgment, I wore the coral trousers again and they were still ill-fitting and too tight (I mean, there is a reason why the linked post for them is “Sewing fails 2019”). So I ended the day by ripping out all those zippers and the buttons to go on a new project. At the same time I also noticed that the turquoise chinos I wore earlier in the month were pretty badly torn (cheap fabric) and now I’ve ended up with no trousers in a fun colour. I need to change that!
Wearing: Coral Trousers, Scissors Shirt, RTW jacket.

Day 24: I’m abroad (Outside Royal Arena in Copenhagen)! In November 2019 my sister and I bought tickets to see Trevor Noah and today was the day it was finally happening. Even sitting in the arena waiting for Trevor himself to show it was a surreal feeling. My sister, having admired the tucks two days earlier, said she liked the skirt, but was relieved to find out that I hadn’t made all the embroidery, the fabric was bought as such.

Wearing: Denim Chardon, Striped Stella, RTW/Thrifted Jacket

Stay tuned for the final days and my lessons learnt.

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Me-Made-May 2022; Days 1-12

The Pledge

While I never did announce it here, over on Instagram I am taking part in Me-Made-May 2022. As this was the month we returned to the office full time, as well as having several social engagements; my pledge was focused on that. After 2 year of social distancing, how does my wardrobe hold up?

Days 1-4

Day 1: One aspect of returning full time to the office is that I can finally remove the last pieces of office from my sewing room. I put the screen in the closet and tidied up the rest. I do look forward to having separate spaces for work and play, even though I need to commute every day. It’s about 20 minutes one way, a mostly lovely drive in the countryside while listening to a podcast, it’s not that bad.
Wearing: A Sysysy-dress in pique.

Day 2: For the first days of Me-Made-May I must squeeze in the garments that are soon no longer weather-appropriate. I did this in this combo, one I found I liked a lot more than expected. The blouse is polyester, so it’ll be uncomfortable in warmer temperatures, and while I hemmed it sing bias tape, I can see that the hemline is beginning to unravel. This day I solved it by wearing it tucked in, but I really should mend it properly.
Wearing: Aubetura blouse and Burda skirt

Day 3: Again, an outfit for a bit more chilly weather. These will very soon get put away until the autumn.
Wearing: Airelle blouse and Burda trousers

Day 4: Pairing this dress and my pink Converse shoes has been on my mind for quite a while, so today I pulled them out of the wardrobe. I like the combination!
Wearing: Aubépine dress, RTW blazer.

Days 5-8

Day 5: One thing about my work is that it sometimes requires long legged trousers (it’s, at the moment, partly a construction site and to enter that part that type of dressing is mandatory). Since I might need to go out there today I wore my chinos, paired with a t-shirt and sweatshirt. While I do like the pieces individually, I felt this outfit lacking in something; colour perhaps, especially in the t-shirt/trousers combo. In order to be able to dress more freely, this was the day I brought an old pair of trousers and a long-sleeved t-shirt to keep at work, that way I could go the construction site no matter what I dressed in that morning.
Wearing: Sara Chinos, star sweatshirt, blue striped wrap top (unseen)

Day 6: This day I knew I needed long-legged trousers (in addition, we also need high-vis vest, safety shoes, hardhat, goggles and gloves; I didn’t take a photo in full get-up). While it’s not more colourfulthan yesterday’s outfit; I still liked it more. Same trousers, same sweatshirt, just a different top. And shoes. Maybe pink Converse can save any outfit? I made these trousers in a cheap twill, and I noticed later that they have ripped along the back welt pocket. Sigh!
Wearing: Sara Chinos, Bruyere shirt, Star sweatshirt (not in picture)

Day 7: Weekend at last! That in-between weather. After my workout I ventured into the city to listen to a concert in which my kid was playing. The School of Cultures is in a 100 year old building, so I posed in the staircase, I love old time staircases (this one is my favourite), so I couldn’t resist the opportunity. In the evening we had friends over for dinner and hanging out (laughing till I cried. Good times!)
Wearing: Coral trousers and Covid Briar

Day 8: A chill Sunday at home. Cleaning up after last night, and finishing my purple Aubépine were the items on my agenda.
Wearing: Grey Brumby and Red Knit top.

Days 9-12

Day 9: I wanted to add some colour to my work outfit and settled on a green Aubétura and denim skirt. I really like the design lines of the skirt, they shine in this fabric, but I’m not convinced it pairs well with the Aubétura blouse. Ah, well.
Wearing: Green Aubetura and Olga in Denim

Day 10: If yesterday was about colour, today was about neutrals. Premiere wearing of my rhomb trousers, paired with my scissors shirt. I think the shirt lends enough humour to the outfit as to not get boring.
Wearing: Rhomb Trousers and Scissors shirt.

Day 11: Work again, but with an added team activity of shuffleboard and dinner in the evening. In order to have some wine, I took public transport today, which is why I am wearing my work backpack on the way to the bus stop, instead of having it in the car waiting to be driven to work. I can take public transport door to door, however it takes at least 45 minutes each way and clashes with pickups/drop-offs at school. And in the same time I could theoretically bike to work.
Wearing: Coral Trousers and White Bruyere.

Day 12: Tired morning. I wish it was Friday, so I went for a casual Friday look. That said, around the office you see people in all types of wardrobe around here. If you’re eagle-eyed, you’ll see that the bomber jacket of today, matches the skirt of day 1. Although I haven’t worn them together yet.
Wearing: Rhomb Trousers, Teal Bomber and RTW t-shirt

Sewn: A Pentalogy of Briars

T-shirts are often something I come back to when I need a palette cleanser. Or when I need a t-shirt. After inevitably catching Covid at the end of January (which, in my case, omicron variant, was in line with a mild flu) I wanted an easy project to get back to the sewing machine, one that didn’t require a lot of thinking or complex techniques, as the project I’m otherwise working on at the moment is a bomber jacket.

I had found a fun piece of viscose jersey in the remnant bin at Selfmade (formerly Stoff och Stil), which was enough for a t-shirt. After looking through my collection of t-shirt and other knit top patterns, I eventually settled on Megan Nielsen’s Briar. Viscose knit are a bit of my Achille’s heel, I like the look of them, but for me they very easily can fall into nightgown territory, especially the more light weight ones, and they can lose shape with time.

Since I’ve made 5 Briars in total, I figured I could present them all in order, as I honestly don’t have a lot to say about each one.

Number 1 – The Yoga Briar

This one was sewn as a layering piece in a very soft cotton jersey from Ohlssons tyger. It’s the cropped top, but lengthened, I found the original length of the cropped version way too short and it would probably end up cutting off my breasts in a weird and unflattering way. I wore this over dress shirts and t-shirts, for work and for leisure, however after some rounds in the washing machine the fabric began to pill and lost its finesse. It has since been regulated to yoga wear, and it’s a great layering piece for yoga, providing warmth without getting in the way of poses.

Number 2 – The linen Briar

Linen knits were heavily discussed in my FB wardrobe planning group and when I found some in the remnant bins at Ohlssons I picked it up. For this Briar, I straightened the hem. The fabric was too see-through to wear on its own, which is, to be honest, not what you want in a t-shirt. The fabric was very delicate and after a while I got some runs in, delegating it to the trash. Sad, but true.

Number 3 – The Faux denim Briar

For this one I sized down, since the grey version felt a bit too big and made the shoulders a bit wider. I used a denim cotton/lycra knit from Stoff och Stil. However, when cutting the pattern I didn’t consider which way had the greatest stretch, so the greatest stretch runs lengthwise. It makes for a very tight t-shirt, also the neckline binding became very lumpy. Also I’m not sure about the pocket placement as is, though I’m not sure what would have been a better one. This square pocket is an odd shape on me, I prefer the semi-circle pocket of my grey Briar. Sadly, due to the aforementioned reasons, I don’t wear this Briar a lot.

Number 4 – The Pleated Briar

I needed to replace my grey layering Briar and this time I went with colour! A cotton/lycra mix, with pleats, purchased at Bernt I Lund. I like the pop of colour this sweater adds to an outfit.

Number 5 – The Covid Briar

The most recent one! In the end I think I cut off 15 cm from the long-length version. With these normal-waisted trousers my tummy does do a bit of peek-a-boo, so it might not be office appropriate. But the t-shirt is very comfortable and I do like the length, I think it will look good over high-waisted shorts.

So, if I had to pick a favourite… Well, it’s not that hard. The emerald green Briar!

Autumn Sewing and Winter Plan

As I continue sewing with a plan, but still take the occasional detour, I think a lot about what I want to wear and what I actually need. For the past year and a half, as I’ve been mostly working from home, I’ve realised that I like to get dressed when working (no sweat pants!) but my wardrobe has been much more casual than when going to the office. T-shirts have been worn aplenty, some to the point of disintegrating.

The Autumn Plan

(Disclaimer: I did once have a Zoom meeting in my robe as I had worked out and showered during lunch and the person I met called me earlier than scheduled).

So, now we are hoping that a more regular presence at the office is near (currently I have two set days, and “when necessary”) it’s time to update my work wardrobe, something that has been reflected in the fall plan I’ve sewn.

The Autumn Outcome

My autumn plan was also a trial of several patterns and style, such as the green blazer and combining Deer and Doe’s Aubepine and Datura into a blouse. The skirt was sewn, but it was planned as a colour-blocked affair, it became all green and the grey and black stretch twills will become separate skirts in the next plan. It could also be noted that I felt green was lacking in my wardrobe, so I’ve tried to remedy that. The trousers, which will have a proper post, are a bit too big, but I like the style and colour of them.

The Winter Plan

As I was sitting down to plan my winter sewing I had an epiphany. Last year I read “The Curated Closet” and one of the tasks was to name your style – and it didn’t need to make sense for anyone else but yourself. And then, the name just came to me “Office nerd connecting with inner rock chick”. I’ve been trapped in making “office appropriate” clothing (even worse when I worked in controlling) and lost a bit of myself. So, let’s change that! I found some fun fabrics at tyg.se that I feel go with the look I’m imagining. Blouses, shirts and t-shirts under blazers, skinny bottoms and colours. I hope it’ll feel right. And, yeah we’re going to a wedding so I need some attire for that as well, in silver and blue.

The Winter plan Fabrics. Office nerd goes rock’n’roll?

Summer Sewing 2021 – Outcome

As I have mentioned before, I do like to plan my sewing. For each new season, I make a plan. As each season ends, I try to figure out what I missed, what I wore, what never got worn to, hopefully, remember for next year so I can make a better plan. For the summer of 2021, here’s what I planned:

What I planned

This year I tried to go for a mini-capsule, where all pieces would mix and match, also while using fabrics I had accumulated over the year. I did sew all of those piece, maybe not the exact pattern (you’ll see what I mean) and added a few pieces that I also needed, but that didn’t necessarily fit into the capsule.

What I sewed!

I truly love the bumblebee dress, how it fits, how it looks, the fabric! The Vaccine Top is also a pretty big hit, it’s a bit dressier (not shown here is the plunging back neckline) and that, since it’s white, goes with plenty of bottom pieces. The other white top, not in plan (pattern Burda 06-2018-121) is a fail. It’s a pique fabric and I’m having trouble getting the neckline to lie flat. But the biggest issue is that against all better judgement, I should have known better than to put gathers around my boobs. While I thought I’d like this for really warm days, it has hardly been warm and I wouldn’t want to wear it outside of the house.

The little jacket from Knipmode (Edition 04/2019 cannot find pattern online), in a stretchy sweatshirt knit, is a very nice little summer jacket. I just haven’t been out a lot in weather that would need it, but surely it can be worn for fall as well? And I didn’t call you Shirley.

As for the bottoms, the blue skirt is lovely in colour and length (and has a post of its own). The tie-dye culottes (Burda 06-2018-103) I made because, well, I needed shorts. I liked the idea of a longer length and the styling made it seem like the overlapping flap would make the culottes look more like a skirt. Truth be told, while I like the shape, the flap mostly gets caught between my legs. If I were to make these culottes again, I’d make them without the flap, and I’d add a waistband. Interfaced waistlines just don’t do it for me.

Now the red trousers. Certainly a pair of 3/4-length trousers are a staple of a summer wardrobe up in the Nordics. I love the fabric and the pattern with the cool pocket details (Burda 10-2017-113). However, someone really stupid (not naming names or placing blame here, people!) didn’t check the stretch of the fabric and didn’t realise that it went on the cross grain of the fabric instead of the straight grain. So now I have trousers that stretch well in the lengthwise direction, but not so much where I actually would want the stretch. Stupid! Plus the haphazard stretch made it harder to get the pocket details sharp. You live you learn (eventually, last fall I made the exact same error.

As for random things to consider for next year’s summer sewing:

  • I need more colour!
  • I want some more vowen, slightly looser tops
  • Viscose knits are lovely to wear in warm weather, but I need to stay clear of the nightgown feeling they can give me
  • I’d like more practical shorts – cargo style – for hikes and similar outings.

Also I’m likely to find lovely fabrics over the year to come, so who know what I’ll want to sew then…

Me-Made May, the first half

While I do share my outfits every day on Instagram, I want to share them here too. To really make myself think about my outfits, what I like and what I don’t like.

Day 1: Meeting people. At a distance, of course. Wearing Checkered Chardon, a Megan Nielsen Briar in linen knit and a double gause Simplicity 8610 jacket.
Since I was actually leaving the house this day, I tried to combine things in a new way. It kind of works. I’m still debating whether or not I should add a button to the jacket.

Day 2: Staying casual at home in Waffle Patterns Pinda pants and Burda 11/2019 hoodie.
Casual and comfy. Nothing more, nothing less.

Day 3: Wearing Waffle Patterns Pinda Pants, RTW tank and Megan Nielsen Briar. And thrifted pink Converse.
I had to rush out as soon as the store opened as we were out of toilet paper (we’re so not hoarding!) and something for the kid to bring to scouting. Tired, but comfy and I had those pink shoes to cheer me up!

Day 4-6, all working from home in knit tops.
On 4 and 5 I’m wearing a wrap top from Burda 02/2020, thrifted trousers on day 4 and my Olga skirt on day 5. I love the colour of the top and the details of the skirt. And look at those lime green leaves in the background! Day 6 is a meh outfit. Both pieces are from Allt om Handarbete (top, trousers) and I need to make so many adjustments to get them to fit, both in terms of sizing and other alterations, that I think I’m done with that company. The colour scheme is nice, though, and the top is a bit better with a belt.

Day 7-9Day 7: I won the Hey June Lane Raglan in an IG giveaway and after six weeks of travelling from the US it arrived and I already had a fabric dedicated to it. A nice and comfy t-shirt, I like the fit since the pattern came with a built in FBA and I like the paint effect of the blue stripes.
Day 8: I went all out with blue shades today! This dress is so comfortable, but still with a nice shape. The fabric is pique and the free pattern is from Swedish designer Jenny Hellström. Rest is RTW. While in theory I would want a me-made denim jacket I don’t see the point as this jacket is perfectly fine. Once it’s worn out, we’ll talk.
Day 9: I went on a pre-breakfast bikeride and while waiting for the family parkour with my daughter I threw on some old sweat pants and a t-shirt. They served their purpose for keeping me clothed, but not sweating on anything precious

Day 10: Lane Raglan again. Handstitching a hem on a dress in one of my favourite fabrics.
Day 11: Pinda pants, a slouchy cardigan in linen knit (refashioned from a me-made warp cardigan) and an Allt om handarbete knit blouse. This knit blouse is OK, despite my complaining of the company earlier. And, while not shown, I like to think my sleeves are better matched than their own example.
Day 12: OK, so I wore the same outfit as yesterday, but got around the issue by wearing a me-made top for the gym. This is a nice airy top, but it’s quite tricky to put on, and it does show off my efforts at the gym.

Day 13: Olga skirt and grey MN Briar. I like the silhouette of this outfit, but, as can be seen in the two Briar outfits above, the neckline is very wide on me. And then I’ve taken in the knit one!
Day 14: These trousers have so many cool details (that I effectively hide) and I love the colour, but the fit is off as they are Allt om handarbete. Their block and I are just not compatible! The linen knit works like this, a bit slouchy (in the best way) over a tank. It was an experiment and while OK, not great.
Day 15: It was grey, windy and raining, so I decided to wear some blue skies and flowers. Clothes can help elevate your mood! The pattern is New Look 6301 and it’s comfortable and put together. A great dress!

2016 Spring Plan Completed

Spring has sprung! Or has it? My spring plan is now complete and I find that I can hardly wear any of the pieces. Apparently in my mind spring is warm; bare legs and light jackets. Are you surprised when I say it’s not? I have learnt my lesson for next year, spring is not warm, spring is not bare legs and light jackets.

Våren är här! Eller är den? Min vårplan är nu komplett och jag inser att jag inte än kan bära något av plaggen. I mitt sinne är våren uppenbarligen varm med bara ben och tunna jackor. Det är inte så överraskande när jag säger att så är icke fallet. Jag har lärt mig en läxa till nästa års plan: våren är inte varm, våren är inte bara ben och tunna jackor.

Helena 2016 vårplan
The plan

Although I’m still awaiting my warmer spring, my spring plan is completed. The plan I presented back in January had four pieces, the finished plan has five pieces and I never did sew that Taffy. What can I say, bias cut scares me. Viscose also scares me with its perpetual shifting, so combining those two was a mountain far too high for me to climb. But I still have five other pieces to mix and match for a springtime look.

Även om jag fortfarande väntar på min varma vår så är min vårplan klar. Planen som jag presenterade i januari hade fyra plagg, den färdiga planen har fem och jag sydde visst aldrig Taffy. Jag kan inte säga mer än att skrådden skrämmer mig. Viskos skrämmer också mig med sitt eviga glidande, en kombination av de två blev ett för högt hinder att ta mig över. Men jag har fortfarande fem plagg att mixa för en vårlook.

White Tiger Jacket: This jacket has still to see the light of day, but I’m counting the days (or the temperature) until I can wear it. I hope the jacket won’t feel like too much when I do wear it since I’m very proud of it.

Vit tigerjacka: Denna jacka har inte burits men jag räknar dagarna och graderna tills jag kan ha den. Jag hoppas att jag inte kommer att känna att jackan är ”för mycket” när jag väl bär den eftersom jag är stolt över den.

Aqua Skirt: I haven’t worn this skirt either, but I’m thinking it could work with tights as well as bare legs. It’s flattering and practical and my guess is that it will see high rotation. Somehow, if I can’t wear a garment hot off the sewing machine it falls back into needing a special moment to be worn. I never know what I’m waiting for.
Aquakjol: Jag har inte burit denna kjol heller, men den borde funka med strumpbyxor lika bra som med bara ben. Den är smickrande och praktiskt och jag gissar att den kommer att bäras mycket. På nåt sätt, om jag inte bär ett plagg direkt när det är nytt faller det in i att behöva ett speciellt tillfälle. Jag vet aldrig vad jag väntar på.

Tiramisu top: I like that I sewed a casual knit top, but with all my fitting issues it doesn’t look as I imagined it. I love the fabric I used, so I hope I will feel comfortable in it when I wear it.
Tiramisu-topp: Jag gillar att jag fick med ett lite ledigare trikåplagg, men med alla bekymmer jag hade så ser den inte riktigt ut som jag tänkte mig. Jag älskar tyget, så jag hoppas att jag känner mig bekväm i den när jag bär den.

Olga Skirt: Love, love, love! This has been worn and I love the fabric and lines of the skirt. This will be worn until it rips in pieces and that will be a very sad day.
Olga-kjol: Kärlek! Denna har burits många gånger och jag älskar tyget och linjerna i kjolen. Denna kommer jag nog att bära tills den faller i bitar, vilket kommer att bli sorgligt.

90s Blouse: I have come to the realization that I am not a bold print person. I prefer solids and texture and if I have prints they must be small scale. Like this blouse. I wanted a casual blouse and this one fits the bill. It is still a bit stiff, but I’m hoping it will get softer and smoother with wear and wash.
90-talsblus: Jag har insett att jag är inte en person för stora, starka mönster. Jag föredrar enfärgat och om jag ska ha mönstrat ska det vara småmönstrat. Som denna blus. Jag ville ha en ledig blus, vilket denna passar in på. Den är lite stel, men jag hoppas att den mjukar upp lite när jag bär och tvättar den.

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The garments

In addition to these planned garments I have also done some non-planned sewing. In February The Monthly Stitch’s theme was UFO Showdown so I took the opportunity to finish two skirts lingering around (Leaf skirt, Jade Skirt). A skirt is also what I’ll be sewing for half of April’s theme of Flower Power. Needless to say, when I’m planning my summer sewing I will not sew skirts. The idea is to continue building so my summer pieces can be worn with these spring pieces. (and dresses. Summer needs dresses).

Förutom dessa planerade plagg har jag också sytt lite oplanerat. I februari var temat i The Monthly Stitch UFO (ofärdiga plagg) so jag tog tillfället i akt att färdigställa två kjolar som låg här (Bladkjolen, Jade-kjol). Jag kommer också att sy en kjol till hälften av aprils tema Flower Power. När jag planerar min sommarsömnad kommer jag inte ha med kjolar. Tanken är att fortsätta bygga så att sommarplaggen kan bäras med dessa vårplagg. (och klänningar. Sommar betyder klänningar).

I’m pleased with my new additions and the fact that they mix and match, so all I need now is warmer weather!

Jag är nöjd med mina nya tillskott och faktumet att de matchar så bra, nu behöver jag bara varmare väder!

Creation: Knit Wrap Top

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As you may have noticed I don’t knit. There is no trace of a knitted piece of yarn anywhere on this blog. Growing up my mum and grandmother used to knit a lot, both of them also sewed, but it is as knitters I mainly remember them, especially my mum. She always had a knitting project ongoing. She tried to teach me when I was younger, but it didn’t stick. It just wasn’t for me.

Som kanske har märkts i bloggen så stickar jag inte. Det finns inget spår av en bit stickad garn någonstans här. När jag var liten stickade min mamma och mormor mycket, de sydde också, men det är som stickerskor jag minns dem, speciellt min mamma. Hon hade alltid ett projekt på stickorna. Hon försökte lära mig när jag var yngre, men det fastnade inte. Stickning var inte för mig.

 

IMG_0937[1]This post is not about a revelation that I now knit. No! Rather this post is trying to find alternatives to knitting. My not knitting has left to some gaps in my wardrobe, I am missing clothes to snuggle up in, to keep me warm and cozy during the winter months. Last year, or if it was the year before, I bought this thin knit fabric with the intention of sewing knitwear. Even though I was in the middle of sewing my spring plan, I took a break to sew this as the weather in early March wasn’t exactly screaming spring. It was screaming “you need cozy knitwear”. Plus after making a few complicated garments (skirt, jacket) I needed a palate cleanser.

Detta inlägg handlar inte om att jag nu sticker. Nej! Detta inlägg handlar snarare om att hitta alternativ till att sticka. Att jag inte stickar har lämnat en del hål i min garderob, jag saknar kläder att mysa i, att hålla mig varm under vintermånaderna. Förra året, eller om det var året innan dess, köpte jag detta tunnstickade tyg med avsikten att sy mig stickade plagg. Och nu, mitt i vårplanen, tog jag en paus för att sy denna tröja eftersom vädret i tidiga mars inte sade vår. Det sade snarare att jag behövde mysiga stickade plagg. Dessutom efter några komplicerade plagg ville jag göra något enkelt (kjol, jacka).

IMG_0935[1]

My wishes for this creation were quick and easy. I looked through my pattern collection and decided on this wrap knit top from the book Burdastyle Wardrobe Essentials. It was easy to sew, but beware, it is a fabric hog since the front pieces also form the yoke and, furthermore, are self-faced. The self-facing also gave me some trouble. Early on you are told to finish the facing edge and fold them down, basting them in place about 4 cm from the fold. Then they are sewn in place, forming the back yoke and then nothing more is stated. Are we supposed to leave the basting in? Would that look pretty? I removed the basting stitches and find myself having to readjust the top when I put it on. The facings stay put when I wear it, I just found the construction odd.

Mina önskemål var snabbt och enkelt. Jag tittade igenom min mönstersamling och valde denna omlottopp från Burdastyle Wardrobe Essentials. Den var lätt och snabb att sy, men åt massa tyg eftersom framstyckena både formar oket bak och dessutom innehåller fodringarna. Dessa fodringar gav mig lite bekymmer. Tidigt i konstruktionen så sicksackar en fodringskanten och viker ner dem, tråcklar 4 cm från vikningen. Sen sys stycket ihop, formar det bakre oket och sen händer inget mer. Ska tråcklingen lämnas kvar? Blir det snyggt? Jag tog bort tråcklingen och nu måste jag rätta till dem när jag tar på toppen. Fodringarna ligger som de ska när jag bär toppen, men jag tyckte bara att konstruktionen var konstig.

I did an undercut after Christmas. Love it!
I did an undercut after Christmas. Love it!

This top fills a wardrobe gap for me and it’s nice and warm. I see myself out in the woods talking spring walks in this top. I will also find more knitted fabrics and make more knitwear.

Denna topp fyller ett garderobshål och den är varm och skön. Jag ser mig i den i skogen under vårpromenader. JAg tänker också hitta mer stickat tyg och utöka denna del av garderoben.

Fabric: Knitted fabric from Stoff och Stil
Pattern: Burdastyle 2011-11-114

Tyg: Tunnstickat från Stoff och Stil
Mönster: Burdastyle 2011-11-114

 

 

Creation: The White Tiger Jacket

Kitty Jacket (5)

Woo-hoo, I made a jacket! A jacket that is lined, has a collar, two-part sleeves. It might not be perfect, but it is fun and I’ve learnt a lot to take with me into future jacket endeavors.

Tjo-ho, jag har sytt en jacka! En fodrad jacka med krage och tvådelade ärmar. Det kan vara så att den inte är helt perfekt, men den är rolig och jag har lärt mig mycket att ta vidare till kommande jack-äventyr.

Princess seams and pockets
Princess seams and pockets

The pattern I used is the Kitty Jacket from Jenny Hellström’s book Sy! Urban Collection. The jacket features princess seams, a two-part sleeve, collar, pockets and a lining. I did a lot of prep work on this, and in some ways maybe this jacket should be considered a wearable muslin, although I’m not sure I’ll make an actual piece. First of all, I had 19 pattern pieces to trace since the outer jacket and the lining jacket were not identical. I lengthened the pattern above the bust, to account for my long torso, I did an FBA, which I had to do on both the inner and outer jacket, and I added length at the bottom since the jacket was designed to end at waist level. Then I forgot to add the same length for the lining (luckily I remembered to do it above the bust), but the lining wasn’t supposed to be attached to the bottom hem anyway so I could get away with. Yes, the lining is a bit shorter than the shell, but it’s on the inside and not something that is seen when I wear the jacket.

Mönstret är Kitty från Jenny Hellströms bok Sy! Urban Collection. Jackan har prinsesskärning, en delad ärm, krage, fickor och foder. Det gick in mycket förarbete i denna jacka och på ett sätt kanske denna jacka borde ses som ett provplagg, men jag är inte säker på att den följs av ett riktigt plagg. Först och främst: mönstret har 19 mönsterdelar att rita av eftersom ytterjacka och foderjacka inte är likadana. Jag förlängde mönstret ovanför bysten för att ta hänsyn till min långa torso, jag gjorde en justering för stor byst, både på ytter- och innerjackan, och till sist lade jag till längd längst ner eftersom jackan är designad att sluta vid midjan. Sen glömde jag att lägga till samma längd längst ner på foderjackan (som tur var kom jag ihåg det ovan bysten), men fodret skulle ändå inte sitta fast vid ytterjackan så det funkade ändå. Ja, fodret är lite kortare än ytterjackan, men det är på insidan och kommer inte att synas.

Kitty line drawing
Kitty line drawing

The fabric I used for the outer jacket is a stretch twill. Stoff och stil describes the print as a zebra print, but I think it’s more of a tiger print. A white tiger, perhaps? The stretch twill probably is slightly too heavy and thick for this design (although denim is one of the recommended fabric) as I found it a bit too bulky in certain places, mostly around the collar and facings, basically where I have two layers. The lining is a thin cotton, with tiny polka dots (same type of fabric as in my old Vanessa skirt). I chose not to use a typical lining fabric as this is a spring jacket and it’s likely I’ll have short sleeves under it, a poly or acetate lining just doesn’t feel nice on the skin. The cuffs are sewn in ribbing, I like them, they give the jacket a casual look, they hold the sleeves up on my short arms and hold them in on my narrow wrists. Sewing – a great way to accept and embrace your body’s unique quirks!

Tyget till ytterjackan är ett stretchtwill från Stoff och stil. Det beskrivs som ett zebratryck, men i mina ögon är det mer ett tigertryck. En vit tiger, kanske? Tyget är nog lite för tungt och tjockt för denna designen (fast denim är ett rekommenderat tyg) eftersom jag tyckte att det blev lite klumpigt på vissa ställen, mest runt kragen och infodringarna, dvs. där jag har två lager. Fodret är ett tunt bomullstyg med små prickar (samma typ av tyg som i min gamla Vanessa-kjol). Jag ville inte ha ett vanlgit fodertyg eftersom jackan är en vårjacka och jag kommer antagligen ha korta ärmar under och polyester och acetat är inte skönt att ha mot huden. Manschetterna är sydda i muddväv, jag gillar dem, de ger jackan en mer vardaglig stil, de håller upp ärmarna på mina korta armar och de håller in dem runt mina smala handleder. Sömnad – ett bra sätt att acceptera och hylla kroppens unika egenheter!

Tie-bands in the back
Tie-bands in the back

I had never before made an FBA on a princess seamed bodices, so yet another thing to learn. While I have read that busty ladies like princess seams just because they are easy to FBA, I found the process longer than on a normal bodice. Personal preferences, I suppose. To help me I used Mary’s (of Idle Fancy) excellent tutorial which was easy to follow and gave me a good result.

 

Tidigare har jag aldrig gjort en FBA på ett liv med prinsessömmar, så det var ännu en ny sak att lära. Jag har läst av andra bystiga kvinnor att de gillar prinsessömmar för att de är så lätta att anpassa till stor byst, men jag kände att processen var längre än på ett vanligt liv. Det handlar om personlig smak, antar jag. Till min hjälp använde jag Mary’s (från Idle Fancy) utmärkta beskrivning, den var lätt att följa och gav bra resultat.

Fully lined!
Fully lined!

Verdict? Like I said, it might not be perfect, but I am still thrilled with my very first successful jacket! It makes me happy and I don’t care about the minor flaws. If someone were to mention them, I hope it will result in an engaging conversation regarding sewing techniques. It also feels great to be over the hurdle of having sewn a jacket, the next time I’ll make a jacket it’ll be better. That’s how I learn, by making things, trying new things, using the experiences to my advantage. Until I’m ready to make a new jacket, I’ll happily wear my White Tiger Jacket.

 

Min dom? Som jag sade, den kanske inte är helt perfekt, men jag är ändå glad och nöjd över min första jacka! Den gör mig glad och jag bryr mig inte om småfelen. Om nån känner sig nödgad att nämna dem, hoppas jag att det mynnar ut i en spännande diskussion om sömnadstekniker. Det känns också bra att ha kommit över hindret att ha sytt en jacka, nästa jag syr en jacka kommer den bli bättre. Det är så jag lär mig, genom att göra saker, försöka nya saker, använda erfarenheterna till min fördel. Tills jag är redo att sy en ny jacka kommer jag med glädje att använda min vita tiger-jacka.

Ribbing cuffs to finish the sleeves
Ribbing cuffs to finish the sleeves

And, my final detail. I added a hook to the back so I can hang it!

Och, min sista detalj. En krok i ryggen så jag kan hänga jackan!

I added a hook in the back
I added a hook in the back

Pattern: Kitty Jacket by Jenny Hellström
Fabric: Stretch twill, ribbing and cotton (poplin?), all Stoff och stil
Notions: Interfacing, buttons, thread
Worn with my aqua skirt

Mönster: Kitty ur Sy! Urban Collection by Jenny Hellström
Tyg: Stretchtwill, muddväv och bomull (poplin?), allt från Stoff och Stil
Sybehör: Mellanlägg, knappar, tråd
Bärs ihop med min aqua-kjol

SWAP 2015 Winter

I decided to start sewing with a plan in October and I’m quite happy to present my finished plan. Sure, the finished garments might not look like the plan I put up back then, seeing how both fabrics and garments have been replaced, but still it’s six garments I can mix and match. Now, since the light is non-existent this time of the year I decided to do a photo shoot on the floor, using my cell phone so I could use the collage app. Hello, my name is Helena and I’m not very tech savvy at all. I’d rather focus my attention to detail on my sewing rather than my photography and editing.

 

The plan:

image

 

The result:
image

 

I kept the colour scheme and most garments were made. I like to think that this pieces mix and match well, and I like the way of planning my sewing. Now, onto spring sewing and Learning how to make mix and match pieces, the plan will come soon!

Multicoloured top and bordeaux skirt
The Dexy sweatshirt
Scuba top and skirt
Folded yoke blouse

 

Jag började sy med en plan i oktober, så nu kan jag glatt presentera mitt resultat. Det kan vara så att plaggen i slutändan inte riktigt är samma som jag hade i min plan, då både plagg och tyger har ändrats, men jag har ändå sex plagg som matchar varandra. Eftersom det inte finns så mycket ljus så här års har jag bara tagit bilder på golvet för att kunna göra ett collage i en app. Jag heter Helena och jag kan inte det här med teknik. Jag lägger hellre min tid och detaljtänk på att sy än att redigera foton.

Jag har behållit färgerna från ursprungsplanen och de flesta av plaggen i den har sytts. Jag vill tro att dessa plagg kan bäras tillsammans och jag gillar att planera min sömnad. Snart kommer vårplanen!

Multifärgad top och bordeauxfärgad kjol
Dexy-tröjan
Scuba-topp och Scuba-kjol
Blus med nervikt ok.