Category Archives: Burdastyle Sewing Handbook

UFO: The Leaf Skirt

I tend not have UFOs. Usually I have finished projects and fails. I cannot live with not finishing something, unless it is a complete fail that cannot be rescued. If I have decided to do something, I will finish it.

Jag tenderer att inte ha ofärdiga projekt. Vanligtvis har jag färdiga projekt och missar. Jag kan inte leva med att inte göra klart något, om det inte är ett helt misslyckande som inte kan räddas. Om jag har bestämt mig för att göra något, så avslutar jag det.

That said, it meant I found it hard to find a project for this month’s theme at The Monthly Stitch which was UFOs. At first I thought it would be one to sit out, but I didn’t want to do that since I haven’t posted there in a while. Then, during a discussion in The Monthly Stitch’s FB group, I realized what I should do.

Med det sagt så innebar detta att jag hade det svårt att hitta ett project för månadens tema hos The Monthly Stitch, som var just UFOs. Först så tänkte jag att jag får väl sitta på bänken, men jag ville göra något eftersom det är ett tag sedan jag delade något där. Sen, efter en diskussion i FB-gruppen för The Monthly Stitch så visste jag vad jag ville göra.

Yes, this was too big, but I hid it

Back in 2012 I made a dress with a fabric I loved. It didn’t fit until last summer (and sadly, now it doesn’t fit again). With the leftovers I made a skirt. I wore the skirt during the Me-Made May ’12 and it was one of my most appreciated garments of the community. But it did hide a secret. It was too big in the waist. And not a little too big, when I made the adjustments now it was 7 cm (that’s 2 ¾”) too big! So, unpick, unpick, unpick it was.

2012 gjorde jag en klänning i ett tyg jag älskar. Den passade inte förrän förra sommaren (och ledsamt nog inte nu heller). Med resterna sydde jag en kjol. Jag bar den under Me-Mady-May 12 och det var ett av mina mest uppskattade plagg. Men den gömde en hemlighet. Den var för stor i midjan. Inte bara lite för stor, nu när jag mätte var den 7 cm för stor! Det var bara att sprätta, sprätta, sprätta.

It fits!
It fits!

I ripped both the side seams to take it in 3.5 cm per side. Facings were unpicked, the zipper was taken out and the hem was opened. The fabric is a cotton sateen and on its Wikipedia page it says that the sateen weave is very susceptible to wear, which was made clear to me as I was unpicking. The fabric tore in several places, so in a silver lining way it was good that it was all of 7 cm to big, because it meant I could easily cut of the torn bits. I also noticed that there is some wear in the dart, so fingers crossed this skirt will last me a while, now that it finally fits.

Jag sprättade båda sidsömmarna för att ta in den 3,5 cm per sida. Infodringarna sprättades, blixtlåset togs ut och fållen öppnades. Tyget är ett bomullssatin och på dess Wikipedia-sida står det att satinväven är känslig för slitage, vilket synliggjordes tydligt när jag sprättade. Tyget slets sönder på vissa ställen, så på ett ”glaset är halvfullt”-sätt var det tur att den var så mycket för stor som sju cm, då kunde jag lättare klippa bort de sönderrivna bitarna. Jag noterade också att en inprovning är lite sliten, så nu håller vi tummarna att kjolen hänger med ett tag, nu när den äntligen passar ordentligt.

Love the new length
Love the new length

The pattern is the Meringue skirt from Colette’s Sewing Handbook, obviously scallops omitted. The fabric is cotton sateen from Stoff och stil. Most of the details regarding the construction are in my creation post – in which I talk about its being too big and needs to be taken in. It only took four years! As a result from being taken in, the skirt now sits higher and is shorter. I don’t mind.

Mönstret är Meringue-kjolen från Colette’s Sewing Handbook, uppenbarligen utan uddkant. Tyget är bomullssatin från Stoff och Stil. De flesta detaljerna angående konstruktion är i min kreations-post – i vilken jag pratar om att den är för stor och måste tas in. Det tog bara fyra år! Som en konsekvens från att ha tagits in sitter kjolen högre och är kortare. Det bekommer mig inte.

The Leaf skirt revisited (1)

Now I hope to get some spring-time wear out of this skirt and that it won’t completely fall apart on me. Also, I need to source some more cotton sateen, that thing is a dream to work with!

Nu hoppas jag på lite vårklädslar ur denna kjol och att den inte trillar i bitar för mig. Dessutom vill jag hitta mer bomullssatin, det är en dröm att jobba med!

And yes, I’m wearing the same cardigan in both the 21012 picture and the 2016 pictures. I love that styling!

Och ja, jag bär samma kofta i båda seten bilder. Jag älskar den matchningen!

The Monthly Stitch

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Creations: Scuba Set

Behold the final garments of my winter plan! A scuba set (yeah, I told you  I wanted more scuba). One of those “sew two, get three” set since the idea is that the pieces can be worn together or separately with other items.

scuba set (3)

If you look at the winter plan there is no scuba set on it. This can be a good time to tell you that the jacquard set I have on the plan will never be seen. After making the scuba dress I was coveting more scuba and the jacquard fabric I had chosen on the plan didn’t feel very nice in the store, so I chose the scuba instead. Maybe I did try to find something wrong with the jacquard just so I could buy the scuba, but the wrong side did just not feel very nice and it wasn’t something I’d like to put on my skin. I successfully convinced myself that scuba was the better choice.

scuba set (8)

However, I had picked out a skirt and a cardigan to sew and neither of these pieces is that skirt or that cardigan. First I figured the scuba would be too heavy for a cardigan so I made the peplum top instead. I have this doubt in my mind that it won’t stand the test of time, but I’m hoping it won’t be too dated anytime soon. The pattern is Simplicity 1539, used for the fourth time this year but, for the first time I made it as it’s supposed to be, peplum and all! It wasn’t really hard to sew. Using a super-stretchy fabric just means no basting is needed to ease the sleeve head and even hemming a half circle peplum isn’t an issue, just stretch and no bulges will appear (I hate hemming circle/half circles for that reason). As for the sleeve length, I did imagine ¾ length, but cut them long just so I could postpone my decision. Then I accidentally cut a hole in the bottom of one sleeve, effectively telling me to use a shorter length, even though I don’t know what this length would qualify as. ¾, 7/8? I honestly have no clue. All I know is that they are a length I like.

scuba set (15)

For the skirt, I thought of a slight A-line shape, since it’s a shape I like to wear. Sometimes it’s just that easy. I had planned on a skirt from Burda Easy FW2015, but when I got the magazine I noticed that while it was shaped with panels in the front, it had darts in the back and I thought darts would be too bulky in the scuba. Instead I used the skirt from the Burdastyle Sewing Handbook. It’s designed for a woven and while the skirt part worked out OK, I’m not completely happy with the waistband, since I didn’t know how to assemble it in a knit that cannot be ironed. It’s a bit wonky, so I must wear it with something untucked so it won’t be seen. I do love the shape and length of the skirt, though.

Holding in to make pencil skirt
Holding in to make pencil skirt

Although I did sew the pieces to go together as a set, I’m not sure that the silhouettes go together very well. I think that the peplum would be better served with a pencil skirt rather than A-line. I think I have enough fabric to make a knit pencil skirt so I might sew that in the future. This is also why I never re-did my wonky waistband, I’d rather save the fabric for a whole new garment than correct the waistband.

Twirl!
Twirl!

I have now successfully completed my first plan, and have some time for unplanned sewing until it’s spring plan time. The spring plan is to be presented in late January and completed in late March. The wardrobe planning group I’m in on Facebook holds you to it, if you don’t present a plan and what you sewed you get kicked out. Tough rules, but I like them, they keep me focused. So now it’s time to begin planning what to wear in the spring.

 

Att skåda: de två sista plaggen i min vinterplan! Ett set i scuba (ja, jag sade att jag ville ha mer scuba). Ett set i ”sy två, få tre”-anda eftersom plaggen kan bäras tillsammans eller var för sig med andra plagg.

 

Om en tittar noggrant på vinterplanen är det lätt att se att där är inget scubaset i den. Jag kan också passa på att säga att jacquardsetet på planen aldrig kommer att ses. Efter att jag hade sytt scubaklänningen ville jag ha mer av det och jacquardtyget jag hade i min plan kändes inte så trevligt, däfrör valde jag scuba istället. Det kanske var så att jag medvetet försökte hitta fel på jacquarden så att jag skulle få köpa det tyg jag egentligen ville ha, men avigan kändes helt enkelt inte som något jag skulle vilja ha emot min hud. Jag lyckades alltså övertyga mig själv om att scuba var ett bättre val.

 

Inte heller är den cardigan eller kjol i min plan de plagg som jag faktiskt sydde. Scuban var för tung för att bli en cardigan, så jag gjorde toppen med skört istället. Jag har lite tvivel att den kanske kommer att kännas lite ”tidigt 10-tal” om några år, men förhoppningsvis inte alltför snart. Mönstret är Simplicity 1539 i sin fjärde reinkarnation detta år, men för första gången har jag gjort den enligt mönstret, med skört. Den var inte alls svår att sy och med ett så stretchigt tyg behövs inga tråckeltrådar för att hålla in ärmkullen och att sy en fåll i en halvcirkel med stretch är inte heller svårt, bara dra i tyget tills det ligger plant (jag hatar annars att fålla cirkel- och halvcirkelkjolar av den anledningen). Angående ärmlängden tänkte jag först 3/4-ärmar, men klippte ut dem långa för att kunna skjuta upp beslutet. Sen råkade jag klippa ett hål i ena ärmen, vilket gjorde att jag fick använda denna längd. Vad är denna längd? ¾? 7/8? Jag har ingen aning, men jag gillar längden de blev.

 

Till kjolen var planen en A-linjekjol, det är en siluett jag gillar att bära. Ibland är det bara så enkelt. Planen var en kjol från Burda Easy HV2015, men när jag fick tidningen såg jag att även om den hade paneler fram var det inprovningar och de skulle nog inte bli bra i det tjocka scuba-tyget. Istället blev det kjolen från Burdastyle’s Sewing Handbook. Den är designad för ett vävt tyg och själva kjoldelen blev bra, men linningen är jag inte helt nöjd med eftersom jag inte visste hur jag skulle sy den i ett stickat tyg som dessutom inte kan strykas. Den är lite skev, så jag måste bära något över som döljer detta. Jag älskar dock siluetten och längden på kjolen.

 

Även om jag sydde båda plaggen att matcha som ett set är jag inte helt säker på att siluetterna funkar helt bra. Skörtet skulle nog göra sig bättre med en pennkjol än en A-linjekjol. Jag tror att jag har tillräckligt med tyg för även en pennkjol, så det kanske dyker upp i framtiden. Detta är också anledningen till varför jag inte gjorde om linningen, jag sparar hellre tyget till ett nytt plagg än att rätta till linningen.

 

Min första plan är nu helt komplett, så jag har tid för lite oplanerad sömnad tills det är dags för vårplanen. Den ska presenteras sent i januari och vara klar i slutet av mars. Sy garderoben med en plan-gruppen på Facebook har höga krav, om du inte presenterar en plan och resultatet åker du ut. Hårda regler, men jag gillar dem då de hjälper mig att hålla fokus. Så nu är det dags att planera vad jag ska bära i vår.

 

 

Creation: The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook dress: The Leaf Dress

Once upon a time I posted about a dress I loved, my Leaf Dress. I sewed it back in the Spring of 2012. Three years ago. Back then I didn’t fit into it, especially after adding a lining. Then I spent a year and a half being pregnant and nursing. Then I tried to adjust to being a working mum of two. Now, three years later, it fits!

Leaf dress (19)
Happy that this dress finally fits (the belt is a bit big, though)

The fabric, in form of my Leaf Skirt, have made rounds during Me-Made-May and its likes and it was always one of the most appreciated garments I wore. The irony is that the skirt is now too big. The skirt was produced after the dress, so I knew I had a winner fabric on my hands. The fabric is a lovely cotton sateen, I love working with that stuff. I behaves politely and do as I please; it doesn’t shift and it presses well.

Leaf dress (21)

The pattern is the dress from the Burdastyle Sewing Handbook. This was pre my FBA days, I think it wouldn’t have hurt my to do a slight FBA, but the dress sits nicely on me. The fit is not perfect, though, as the princess seams flatten my chest. It’s just that I’m so happy to be able to wear the dress, that I don’t care! People who don’t sew will be impressed, mark my words!

Leaf dress (24)

The dress, being fully lined, may very well be one of my best-constructed garments. I can’t wait for the weather to get warmer and wear this dress! (Not too warm though as the lining is polyester). Also, I’m hoping I don’t have too high expectations on this dress, having seen it hanging in my wardrobe for three years and now being able to wear it. It is just a dress, albeit a very pretty dress. And now I can finally wear it!

The ruffle is left raw
The ruffle is left raw

Project summary:
Pattern
: The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook dress.
Difficulty: Intermediate. With my experience I didn’t find it hard, I liked the images that accompanied the instructions. However, I would not recommend this as a beginner pattern.
Alterations: Omitted the neckline ruffle and closure (although I might add a closure now that I see the pictures).

Fabric: Cotton Sateen, Acetate lining.
Notions: Thread, zipper, interfacing
Price: Fabric 100  SEK (€11.61), zipper 23 SEK (€2.67), lining 20 SEK (€2.32), thread and interfacing 10 SEK (€1.16).
Total: 149 SEK (€17.29)

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Denna klänning sydde jag för 3 år sedan. Tyvärr passade den inte då, och däremellan har jag varit gravid och ammat. Men nu, tre år senare, har jag tagit mig i kragen och nu kan jag äntligen bära den! Den sitter bra, men hade nog dragit nytta av en Full Bust Adjustment. Mönstret är klänningen från The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook och tyget är bomullssating från Stoff och Stil. Tyget är underbart! Jag älskar mönstret och känslan av det, det var underbart att arbeta med. Klänningen är helfodrad med acetatfoder.

Creation: Burdastyle Sewing Handbook Skirt: Rock Glam Skirt

Since a couple of years our office Christmas parties are themed. Last year’s party, which I didn’t attend, was the 80s and according to the gossip it was pretty great. Most people went all in with their outfits and a great time was had by all. This means that the anticipations of this year’s party were high with many speculations in themes and outfits.

Could use some pressing, but faux leather can't be pressed
Could use some pressing, but faux leather can’t be pressed

After a long wait, and rumors starting to spread, the invite came with the theme and confirmed the rumors; this year’s theme was Glitz and Glam. We were all left feeling quite uninspired, as the theme didn’t invite to playing dress-up, rather to “just” dress up. I am not a glitz and glam girl in any sense of the word. On Twitter I was suggested with Mad Men-glam or The Great Gatsby-glam. While I must admit that the Great Gatsby-look is great, I’m not sure I would like to spend time and money on something I wouldn’t get any use out of more than once. This was also the reason as to why I didn’t want to make a sequined garment, I would have no use for it and the sequined fabric looks cheap. I did find a more luxurious sequined fabric but that was WAY too expensive. Not gonna happen. (I was inspired by Lauren’s great dress, which ultimately would have been too fancy, though)

Side view. I think the length is perfect
Side view. I think the length is perfect

My sister gifted me a sequined look she had made for a Glitz and Glam party of her own, but again, sequins did not allure me. It would be my plan B, but I knew I wanted something different. In the end I settled for a silver faux leather fabric in order to make a skirt. I had sewn once in leather (faux as well) before, but that project wasn’t anything special. For a skirt I didn’t want to risk anything, ending up with holes because of ripped seams. Unnaturally of me, I was also precautious and realised that darts wouldn’t work well with this fabric, so I decided to make the Skirt from The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook. I still amaze myself with the insight of the darts.

Back view. The zipper is a little wonky, but I doubt anyone will mention (or they'll admit to staring at my ass)
Back view. The zipper is a little wonky, but I doubt anyone will mention (or they’ll admit to staring at my ass)

The skirt, in theory, is quite simple to sew. In practice it was a lot harder. The skirt is made up of 7 panels, four in the back and three in the front, which shape the skirt, thus the “no darts” thing. However, let me tell you that all those panels have minimal differences and are bound to getting mixed up. I think in the end I cut three extra panels just because I couldn’t keep them straight (if I could have pinned the fabric I would’ve pinned a note on each piece). And then I sewed the waistband in upside down, pinning it as a facing. Looked horrible. I substituted the faux leather for black denim in the waistband.

Panelled skirt and denim waistband
Panelled skirt and denim waistband

In the end I had a great night in my new skirt, drinking plenty of wine, dancing the night away (which resulted in a blister on my foot, which stayed there for a month). In short: it was fun! ——————————————————————————————- Innan jul sydde jag en kjol till årets julfest med tema “Glitter och Glamour”. Då jag varken är en glitter- eller glamourtjej valde jag att sy en kjol i silvrigt fuskläder i stället. Mönstret var kjolen ur Burdastyles Sewing Handbook, det var lite klurigt att hålla reda på alla paneler och jag sydde dessutom i linningen upp och ner. I slutänden blev det en läderkjol med denimlinning som jag dansade hela natten i.    

The Leaf Dress

Back in May I completed my Leaf Dress, but it didn’t fit and it has since just been hanging in my wardrobe. Luckily, it’s a pretty addition to my wardrobe and mark my word, one day I will fit into this dress! The Leaf Dress 001 The pattern is the dress from the Burdastyle Sewing Handbook. I’ve omitted the ruffle along the neckline, because I really don’t have the need to add more stuff in the chest area. The fabric is a cotton sateen from Stoff och Stil, the same I used for the Leaf Skirt (cut after the dress).

The Leaf Dress 003As well as omitting the neckline ruffle, I also chose not to use any closure in the neckline, I kind of like the folded-over feeling. The dress fit me (in a smaller form) perfectly without any modifications. The cotton sateen had some stretch to it, it was when I added the interfaced lining the dress did not fit me (and then I think I expanded some more).

The Leaf Dress 002I really like the bottom ruffle, which is attached to the lining and unfinished at the bottom. It is a special feature.

The Leaf Dress 004The dress is fully lined, I used an acetate lining, the bodice of it is interfaced. I’ve always stayed away from lining clothes, but it’s not as hard as I thought and it gives the garment a polished look on the inside as well.

Project summary: Pattern: The Burdastyle sewing handbook dress. Difficulty: Intermediate. With my experience I didn’t find it hard, I liked the images that accompanied the instructions. However, I would not recommend this as a beginner pattern. Alterations: Omitted the neckline ruffle and closure. Fabric: Cotton Sateen, Acetate lining. Notions: Thread, zipper, interfacing Price: Fabric 100  SEK (€11.61), zipper 23 SEK (€2.67), lining 20 SEK (€2.32), thread and interfacing 10 SEK (€1.16). Total: 149 SEK (€17.29)

Project rating: I guess it’s no secret that I’m in love with this fabric. The dress looks good and while I could still get into it, I loved it on as well. I can’t wait to wear it! (Even if I do fit into it next summer, it will be difficult to wear next summer as I will be breast-feeding)

Green Floral blouse

I finished this blouse in time for Me-Made.-May.

The pattern is the Burdasyle Sewing Handbook blouse, pretty much unaltered. The fabric is a viscose, purchased at the winter sale, so it was pretty cheap.

The blouse fits me fairly well and the size is good. I do want to try and alter the pattern, but I figured an original go would be the best for me to get to know the pattern.

In retrospect I wish the bodice was a bit longer, it’s pulling up on me. Note that I’ve paired the blouse with my Lessons Learnt Skirt, and I wore this outfit for Me-Made-May already.

Project summary: Pattern: The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook blouse Difficulty: Intermediate. It was plenty of pieces to keep track of, but the sewing was pretty easy. The instructions were clear with many pictures. Alterations: Did an elastic both in the front and back. Omitted trim. Omitted zipper, I could get the blouse over my head. Fabric: Viscose Notions: Thread,elastic, interfacing. Price: Fabric 38  SEK (€4.20),  thread + interfacing  + elastic 7  SEK (€0.77). Total: 45 SEK (€4.98).

Project rating: This blouse is not really my style, but I wanted to get to know the pattern. I think it will be used, but not on highest rotation. It was cheap, though!

In the mail

As a birthday gift from my grandparents I ordered two sewing books. The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook and the Colette Sewing Handbook. Now I’m waiting for their arrival, which should be no later than the end of next week. I’ve seen so many good reviews for the books, not to mention all the fabulous bloggers who are featured, so I’m really excited and I can’t wait to read them. Please, hurry up!

Birthday gift

For my birthday I asked husbie to craft something specific for me. He did.

I had asked for a thread roll holder, which he admitted wasn’t very hard to do. He painted a plank, drilled holes in which he placed flower sticks and then put it up on the wall. After some consulting with me he added more sticks to the right so I could put up the thinner rolls.

I’m very happy with this, as it clears some space in my sewing drawer and gives me an overhaul of my threads.

There still one (or two) more birthday presents to come. From my grandparents I got money, they will go to The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook and Colette Sewing Handbook. I can’t wait. I would have placed an order already, but we’re going on vacation, next week I’ll order them. I look forward to reading the books and using the patterns and methods.