Category Archives: Colette

Fall Planning 2015

I do like planning. Even if I don’t end up sewing everything I plan or deviate at times, it’s good to have something to fall back on. My plan for this fall is quite diverse, but I am hoping it can be the start of a FW wardrobe.

 

Skinny pants – Colette Clover

I made a pair of Colette Clovers in June and they fit pretty well straight out of the envelope. The fabric I’m using is a Bordeaux stretch twill.

Will go with: Slightly longer shirts and blouses, worn untucked, with cardigan over.

 

Shirt – Deer and Doe’s Bruyère

Red Chambrey
Red Chambrey

As I was ordering the Belladone dress, I couldn’t resist also getting the Bruyère shirt, especially since I already had some red Chambery in my stash for it. Unfortunately it might not be enough to make the sleeved version, but I believe I can make it work for fall even if sleeveless.

Will go with: Skinny bottoms such as pants (like a pair of bordeaux Clovers) or pencil skirts.

 

Dress – Embossed Scuba dress

Can I get away with this?
Can I get away with this?

I recently joined Instagram (ETA Sep 11: after a month I realised that Instagram was not a medium for me, so I am no longer on there. It might change in the future, but right now it wasn’t for me) and played along in the #sewphotohop organised by Rachel of House of Pinheiro. One task was to show our boldest fabric. For me it is this greyish embossed scuba knit. I want to make a dress from it, thinking along the lines of t-shirt top and half circle skirt (if I have enough fabric). I hope it can be a wearable everyday dress.

Will go with: Nothing, which is kind of the point of the dress

Jacket – Black and purple jacquard jacket

A jacket to be
A jacket to be

As I do want to progress in my sewing I decided that this fall I will sew myself a jacket. The pattern is the cover look from Burda Easy FW2014, basically the cover look. I will sew it in a wool blend jacquard and line it in a purple satin lining (there is purple behind the circles of the fabric, so perfect match when I found the lining in the remnant bin). The pattern doesn’t call for lined sleeves, but maybe I will try and figure it out since I can’t wear all types of wool (nicer wool works, poor quality makes me itch*).

Will go with: Over skinny bottoms and t-shirts or shirts.

 

Mini skirt – Mary in stretch denim

Enough to make a decent mini skirt?
Enough to make a decent mini skirt?

I’ve been wanting a denim mini skirt for quite a while and maybe it’s time. I will use the Mary skirt from Jenny Hellström’s book Sy! Urban Collection. I’ve been told the skirt runs short, as in very,very short, so I will add as much length as the fabric allows me. Could be a hit or miss, but I do want to try the look. If I don’t try, I’ll never know.

Will go with: Pretty much anything on top. Great wardrobe basic, if it doesn’t end up too short.

Stretch twill for Clovers, purple twill for skirt (too juvenile?), a knit for sweater/skirt set and textured floral jersey
Stretch twill for Clovers, purple twill for skirt (too juvenile?), a knit for sweater/skirt set and textured floral jersey

I will stick with these five pieces as my first plan as things may get bumped up to the head of the queue. But it’s good to have a planned list where I know I have all the supplies at home and can just get started. Other things that could be of interest is a denim A-line skirt (but I wonder if 10oz denim is too heavy for clothing?), a purple skirt (where I ponder if the fabric I have is too juvenile), a top (I have this interesting floral textured jersey, that I would like to make a dress of, but I think there’s only enough for a top) and a sweater/skirt set. I do have a sweatshirt planned in my mind, but no fabric for it at the moment. I might also want to do some crafting with/for the kids. As you can see, I can keep busy with sewing this fall too. I wasn’t very impressed with the fall collection at my local fabric store, Stoff och Stil, but if I were to buy something it would be this burgundy jacquard and make myself a Mortmain dress. Not that I need more dresses….

 

Jag gillar att planera. Även om jag kanske inte kommer att sy allt på min plan eller om jag någon gång avviker gillar jag har något att falla tillbaks på. Min plan denna höst har spridda skurar, men jag hoppas att det kan bli en grund till en bra höst/vinter-garderob.

 

Smala byxor – Colette Clover

Jag sydde ett par Clover-byxor i juni och de passar rätt bra utan några ändringar. Denna gång ska jag sy i vinrött stretchtwill

Passar med: Något längre skjortor och blusar, inte nedstoppade, med koftor över.

 

Skjorta – Deer and Doe’s Bruyère

När jag beställde Belladone-klänningen kunde jag inte motstå att att även köpa Bruyère-skjortan, speciellt eftersom jag redan hade röd Chambéry till den i mina gömmor. Tyvärr är där nog inte tillräckligt för att göra den med ärmar, men jag tror att jag kan få den att funka till hösten ändå, även utan ärmar.

Passar med: Smala nederdelar såsom byxor och pennkjolar

 

Klänning – Scubaklänning

Jag har nyligen gått med i Instagram (Tillagt 11/9: Efter en månad med Instagram insåg jag att det mediet var inte för mig, så just nu finns jag inte där. Det kan ändra sig i framtiden, men just nu var det inte rätt) och deltog i #sewphotohop-utmaningen. En dagsuppgift var att visa sitt mest djärva tyg. I mitt förråd är det detta scuba-tyg från Stoff och Stil. Jag vill göra en klänning av det, tänker mig en t-shirt med en halvcirkelkjol, om tyget räcker. Jag hoppas att det kan bli en bra vardagsklänning, om än lite annorlunda.

Passar med: Inget, men det är lite syftet med denna klänning och detta tyg.

 

Kavaj – Svart/lila jacquardjacka

Jag vill lära mig nytt, så jag har bestämt att denna höst ska jag sy en kavaj. Jag har tänkt använda omslagskavajen från Burda Easy FW2014. Tyget är jacquard i ullblandning och den ska fodras med lila satin (det är lila bakom cirklarna i jacquardtyget så när jag hittade fodret i stuvlådan på Stoff och Stil var det en perfekt matchning). Mönstret har inte fodrade ärmar, men jag ska försöka fodra dem ändå eftersom jag inte kan bära alla sorters ull utan att det kliar.

Passar till: Smala nederdelar såsom byxor eller kjolar

 

Minikjol – Mary i stretchdenim

Jag har länge velat ha en minikjol i denim and nu är det kanske dags. Jag kommer att använda Mary från Jenny Hellströms Sy! Urban Collection. Jag har läst hos Sytokarna att kjolen är kort, riktigt, riktigt kort, så jag kommer att lägga till så mycket längd som tyget tillåter (jag har inte jättemycket). Detta kan gå hur som helst, men jag vill prova. Försöker jag inte får jag aldrig veta.

Passar till: I princip allt. Perfekt garderobsbas, om den inte blir för kort.

 

I denna plan håller jag mig till fem plagg, med nya saker kan komma att flyttas fram på listan. Jag gillar att ha en plan, med allt material hemma så när lusten faller på är det bara att välja ett projekt. Andra saker som är av intresse är en A-linjekjol i denim (men jag undrar om mitt 10oz denim är för tjockt för kläder), en lila kjol (är tyget för barnsligt?), en topp (jag har ett intressant blommigt jerseytyg med textur, som gärna skulle få bli en klänning, men jag tror att det bara räcker till en top) och ett set med kjol och tröja i det stickade tyget. Jag har också idéer om en sweatshirt, men inget tyg hemma. Jag vill också göra något med eller till barnen. Som synes, jag ska nog kunna fylla min sytid denna höst också. Jag var inte så imponerad av Stoff och Stils höstkollektion i år, men om jag skulle köpa något skulle det bli detta vinröda jacquardtyg och så skulle jag sy mig en Mortmain-klänning. Inte för att jag behöver fler klänningar…

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Creation: Colette Hawthorn Dress

I’m not the person to instantly buy a new pattern when it’s released. I’d rather wait and see the pattern made up by various sewers before I buy it, therefor I am always late to the pattern party. So now, two years after its release, I have finally joined the Hawthorn bandwagon. It is also one of my two makes for “One Pattern, Two Ways” in Indie Pattern Month.

Me and my two Hawthorns
Me and my two Hawthorns

According to my measurements I hit all the numbers for the size 8. Yet I had to add a 2 cm FBA (1 cm per side). Pattern drafting and pattern maths are things I will never understand. I followed the FBA tutorial on Sewalongs.com and added an extra side dart. After that I proceeded to split the waist dart in two. I really like the fit of this dress, the bodice could be a smidgen shorter, but I won’t beat myself up about it.

Bodice with plenty of darts
Bodice with plenty of darts

The fabric is a ripstop (which says nothing to me), a 50/50 blend of cotton and polyester. I like the colour and the small print of the pattern, subtle but it keeps the fabric from become boring. It pressed well and was easy to work with. The oddest thing about this fabric however, is that it was actually bought with a Hawthorn in mind! It’s been sitting in my pile for almost a year and in the end it became the dress it was intended. Isn’t that amazing!? The buttons are mother of pearl. Hawthorn dress (12) The pattern was quite easy to follow, and I made my first tower placket and cuff. They’re not perfect but for my first attempt I’m very satisfied. I really liked the fold lines on the pattern piece for the placket, which made the whole thing easier, and the pictures on the sewalong really helped a lot.

My very first placket and cuff!
My very first placket and cuff! (Maybe I forgot one stitch line?)

This is a perfect transition piece, great for work in those in between seasons. It got its first wear at the horse race track for their annual family day on Ascension Day. Carousels, taco lunch, pony rides and horse betting, it really is fun for the whole family! Especially fun when I put 10 SEK (€1.07) on Mr. Gorgonzola, just because I loved that name, and that cheesy sounding horse (pun fully intended) won and gave me 347 SEK (€37) back. Thank you Mr. Gorgonzola!

image

Can you tell I’m really pleased with my new dress? Putting an effort into fitting, something I never did before, really pays off.

Perfect twirl dress!
Perfect twirl dress!

    Som en del av The Monthly Stitch’s Indie Pattern Month har jag sytt en Hawthorn-klänning. Tyget är ripstop (50/50 bomull/polyester) från Stoff och Stil. Trots att mina mått föll précis på storlek 8 var jag tvungen att göra en FBA på 2 cm (jag kommer aldrig att förstå mönster-matte), vilket gjorde att jag lade till en sidinprovning, dessutom delade jag midjeinprovningen i två. Klänningen bar jag första gången på Jägersros familjedag där hästen Mr. Gorgonzola sprang in 347 kr på min satsade tia. Härlig klänning att bära och storvinst på travet blev en väldigt glad Helena!

Creations: Cropped Hawthorn Blouse and Mortmain Skirt

The second contest for Indie Pattern Month over at The Monthly Stitch is “Separates”. The rules were simple enough, sew two coordinating pieces that work together in an outfit. To sew my separates I reached for two of my dresses patterns, because it seems like the natural thing to do, right?

Minnie Outfit (2)

I bought the polka dot poplin back in January on the annual sale and even back then I had the intention of making a Mortmain skirt. I love the shape of the skirt with those big box pleats. The main feature of the Mortmain is the exposed zipper in the back, which is inserted in a clever way, here demonstrated by Roobeedoo. Of course I had to have an exposed zipper in the back of my skirt, a white zipper to match the polka dots.

Minnie Outfit (9)

After making my skirt I needed something to pair it with. The skirt is pretty high-waisted so I settled for a cropped version of Colette’s Hawthorn dress. All my measurements hit the same size on the size chart, but I still had to do a 2 cm FBA. I will never understand the mathematics of pattern drafting. In the FBA I added a side dart, following the FBA I also split the waist dart in two to reduce bulk, after my FBA it was 10 cm across. For the sleeves I did view A, with short sleeves and a folded cuff. The buttons are fabric-covered buttons.

Minnie Outfit (16)
Not my best face, but it shows off all my FBA darts

This outfit will be dubbed the Minnie outfit as it reminds me of Minnie mouse. I really like how well these two half-dresses go together, although I don’t think they would make a good Frankenpattern. Just the fact that one closes with buttons in the front and one with an exposed zipper in the back is one clue. Plus, I think there would be too much going on. These pieces can also easily be worn with other items, although I’ve passed the bare midriff age and will search for high-waisted bottoms to go with the shirt. Or layer it beneath something longer.

Sleek profile
Sleek profile

I like the outfit, it may be a bit out there, but it did turn out as I envisioned it so I’m quite pleased. I find that is it flattering on me and fun. Obviously it is my entry for the separates contest at The Monthly Stitch.

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Den andra tävlingen i The Monthly Stitch’s indie-månad är uddaplagg. Jag sydde två plagg i bomullspoplin med stretch; en kjol med Mortmain-mönstret och en kort blus från Hawthorn. Kjolen har jag sytt enligt denna beskrivning och den har givetvis ett synligt blixtlås där bak, précis som klännings-förlagan. På blusen har jag gjort 2 cm FBA, lagt till en bystinprovning samt delat midjeinprovningen i två. Det blev en blus som passade mig mycket bra!

Theoretical Sewing

This is not a post about sewing. This is a post about my theoretical sewing as I try to match up my fabric stash with my pattern stash. I don’t dare to sew, even if I can find a little time here and there, since I wouldn’t know what size to cut. My bust measurement is not what it’s supposed to be and I hope my other measurements can shrink as well.

Anyway, here’s my current plan for my stash:

This is a lightweight cotton print, that I just find totally adorable. It has “dress” written all over it. At first I bought it to make Colette’s Truffle Dress (which I have made once before, but this one would feature the ruffle), but then I’m slightly drawn to the City Dress of Burda 02-2013. I feel as if the City Dress would showcase the adorable print better.

This is a micro-satin, 100% polyester, in aqua. The photo does not do the colour justice. Since I have 2 metres of it, at first thought I’d make a matching top/skirt. But I didn’t know what style to make and match, so the fabric has just been laying around. Now it’s a high candidate to be a Taffy blouse. I have been toying with the idea of making a Shari dress (which I love and can’t believe I’ve never made), but I think this fabric is a bit too light-weight and drapey to hold up that dress, plus I think I may have just a bit too little of it to make the bias skirt.

This is an aubergine “party satin”, yep 100% polyester. But such a lovely colour (again, the photo does not do it justice). It’s quite heavy and not very drapey so it’s hard to find a matching pattern. I have been thinking of a wrap blouse (without the ruffle, ruffles – not my thing), would be a great fall/winter piece (although cold since it’s synthetic). But perhaps I could do something more daring such as the Blouson Jacket. Although I do need tops.

wpid-20130605_161626.jpgThis polka dot fabric was found in the scrap bin, without a plan to go with it. It is a home decour fabric, but I think it can work for a dress. It’s a bit stiff and heavy so I figured it needs something with structure. This Boucle Dress, perhaps? Although, I’d totally leave out the fraying details.

So, there’s my theoretical sewing. Do you think my plans are any good? Have I matched fabric to pattern well? Do I need to go in another direction altogether?

It’s almost as hard to do theoretical sewing as actual sewing, but at least it takes less time.

Lime Truffle Dress

I did finishe my Truffle Dress and wore it to a birthday party yesterday. I love it! I definitely needed a pop of colour in my wardrobe and this dress really pops.

I used the Truffle Dress from the Colette Sewing Handbook and omitted the ruffle. At first glance, when I got the book back in December, I didn’t really care for the ruffle, but after seeing many versions with it, it grew on me. However I didn’t have enough fabric for it as my fashion fabric was a scrap bin find. Perhaps in an upcoming version.

I really love the shaping of the dress with the use of darts. It’s my first Colette dress pattern but from what I can gather Colette truly understands the shape of a woman. I did a “light muslin” using my lining fabric. It was a bit hard as the side seams are among the last to be sewn so it was hard to get the fit right. When the dress was finished it was actually too big over the bust. That has never happened before! For that reason alone I want to make nothing other than Colette patterns. (BTW, look at the unintentional (other than cutting the fabric folded) pattern matching along the center back skirt seam). I did like the unusual approach of constructing the dress (finishing the shoulder seams, pulling the dress through and then sewing the lining and shell side seams in one) even though it made it harder to fit.

The fabric is a satin from Stoff och Stil, intended as a home textile/curtain fabric, but it worked very well for a structured dress.

Project summary: Pattern: Truffle Dress from the Colette Sewing Handbook Difficulty: I would say easy. The sewing is not anything complicated and the instructions are clear and imaged. Alterations: Omitted the ruffle due to fabric restrictions.

Fabric: Satin, acetat lining. Notions: Thread, zipper. Price: Fabric 86.35  SEK (€9.77), zipper 23 SEK (€2.60), lining 17.5 SEK (€1.98), thread 1 SEK (€0.11). Total: 128 SEK (€14.48)

Project rating: I wanted a dress that popped and I got a dress that popped! I love shopping in the scrap bin, letting others decide what I will buy. At the store I didn’t realise that this was in deed a home textile, so I didn’t let that fact phase me. I love the outcome and I really want to make many more Colette patterns.

My pattern review of the Truffle dress.

To Combine Lime and Truffle

A few Christmases ago I made a candy called Snowballs. It was white chocolate and lime. To be honest they were not very good and although they were not a truffle I’m hoping that my next combination of Truffle and lime will be a better project.

I was looking for a pattern for my lime satin fabric, which is a curtain pattern, but I’m using it as a fashion fabric. I wanted a structured dress for this fabric, not something with gathers or any other detailing for light flow-y fabrics. Also I didn’t want to many other details, I wanted the fabric to be shown off at its best. I settled on the Truffle Dress from The Colette Sewing Handbook, a simple, fitted, lined bodice with an A-line skirt.

Fit is key (I’m trying to learn that), but I’m still too lazy to do a muslin. Plus I had no appropriate fabrics. But since the bodice is lined I did the lining pieces first and used that as my muslin. It’s not the same drape in the fabrics, but I’m hoping it will be enough to show me where the darts fall and the length of the bodice. Another problem is that for this model the bodice and skirt are attached first and then the back and side seams are sewn, so I had to pin all the seams, but one, and that is why I’m holding the last side seam in place.

I realise that a white bodice over a white t-shirt isn’t the best way to see, but I went on fit instead. The most important thing is how it feels and to me it feels good (I don’t dare to say “very good” if the finished dress should not turn out good). The darts fall at exactly the right place and the bodice feels good. It’ll be different in my heavier fashion fabric and with the weight of the skirt, but I’m hoping the fit will be a success. I got invited to a birthday party for next weekend, it would be fun to show up in a Lime Truffle Dress!

The Leaf Skirt

On Thursday I got the urge to wear something new the upcoming day. So after the kiddo went to bed (around half past seven) I sat down with a project. Criminal Minds was on at nine, so that was my deadline. On Friday I wore this:

In short: I love this skirt! The cut is perfect and the fabric is lovely. I love how it looks with the thin black stockings.

The pattern is Meringue from the Colette Sewing Handbook. Due to fabric restrictions (I used scraps from another project) I omitted the scalloped hem. The pattern is a perfect basic skirt and doesn’t use a lot of fabric (not counting the scallops) so it’s perfect for scraps. The waist is a little big, hopefully someday I’ll have the inspiration to fix it.

The pattern was good in size and the instructions seemed good, I didn’t use them very much since it’s easy to construct a skirt like this. I feel like I want one skirt in every colour in this pattern, it’s so easy to sew and wear. (I rarely make tops. It’s a problem)

The waist is finished with two darts in the front and back respectively and has facings. There is an invisible zipper in the left side seam.

Project summary:
Pattern
: Meringue from the Colette sewing handbook
Difficulty:Easy. It’s the first project of the book and it’s easy. Very easy if you omit the scallops.
Alterations: Omitted the scallop hem.

Fabric: Cotton sateen (lovely to work with and wear)
Notions: Thread, zipper, interfacing.
Price: Fabric 60  SEK (€6.74), zipper 23 SEK (€2.58) thread + interfacing  5 SEK (€2.58).
Total: 88 SEK (€9.88).

Project rating: Love! A skirt which was easy to sew and easy to wear. The fabric is wonderful. Sometimes a simple quick skirt is just what you need. After the wonderful drafting of this skirt, I’m eager to try out more Colette patterns.

In the mail

As a birthday gift from my grandparents I ordered two sewing books. The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook and the Colette Sewing Handbook. Now I’m waiting for their arrival, which should be no later than the end of next week. I’ve seen so many good reviews for the books, not to mention all the fabulous bloggers who are featured, so I’m really excited and I can’t wait to read them. Please, hurry up!

Birthday gift

For my birthday I asked husbie to craft something specific for me. He did.

I had asked for a thread roll holder, which he admitted wasn’t very hard to do. He painted a plank, drilled holes in which he placed flower sticks and then put it up on the wall. After some consulting with me he added more sticks to the right so I could put up the thinner rolls.

I’m very happy with this, as it clears some space in my sewing drawer and gives me an overhaul of my threads.

There still one (or two) more birthday presents to come. From my grandparents I got money, they will go to The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook and Colette Sewing Handbook. I can’t wait. I would have placed an order already, but we’re going on vacation, next week I’ll order them. I look forward to reading the books and using the patterns and methods.