Category Archives: Fashion Style

Summer Sewing 2021 – Outcome

As I have mentioned before, I do like to plan my sewing. For each new season, I make a plan. As each season ends, I try to figure out what I missed, what I wore, what never got worn to, hopefully, remember for next year so I can make a better plan. For the summer of 2021, here’s what I planned:

What I planned

This year I tried to go for a mini-capsule, where all pieces would mix and match, also while using fabrics I had accumulated over the year. I did sew all of those piece, maybe not the exact pattern (you’ll see what I mean) and added a few pieces that I also needed, but that didn’t necessarily fit into the capsule.

What I sewed!

I truly love the bumblebee dress, how it fits, how it looks, the fabric! The Vaccine Top is also a pretty big hit, it’s a bit dressier (not shown here is the plunging back neckline) and that, since it’s white, goes with plenty of bottom pieces. The other white top, not in plan (pattern Burda 06-2018-121) is a fail. It’s a pique fabric and I’m having trouble getting the neckline to lie flat. But the biggest issue is that against all better judgement, I should have known better than to put gathers around my boobs. While I thought I’d like this for really warm days, it has hardly been warm and I wouldn’t want to wear it outside of the house.

The little jacket from Knipmode (Edition 04/2019 cannot find pattern online), in a stretchy sweatshirt knit, is a very nice little summer jacket. I just haven’t been out a lot in weather that would need it, but surely it can be worn for fall as well? And I didn’t call you Shirley.

As for the bottoms, the blue skirt is lovely in colour and length (and has a post of its own). The tie-dye culottes (Burda 06-2018-103) I made because, well, I needed shorts. I liked the idea of a longer length and the styling made it seem like the overlapping flap would make the culottes look more like a skirt. Truth be told, while I like the shape, the flap mostly gets caught between my legs. If I were to make these culottes again, I’d make them without the flap, and I’d add a waistband. Interfaced waistlines just don’t do it for me.

Now the red trousers. Certainly a pair of 3/4-length trousers are a staple of a summer wardrobe up in the Nordics. I love the fabric and the pattern with the cool pocket details (Burda 10-2017-113). However, someone really stupid (not naming names or placing blame here, people!) didn’t check the stretch of the fabric and didn’t realise that it went on the cross grain of the fabric instead of the straight grain. So now I have trousers that stretch well in the lengthwise direction, but not so much where I actually would want the stretch. Stupid! Plus the haphazard stretch made it harder to get the pocket details sharp. You live you learn (eventually, last fall I made the exact same error.

As for random things to consider for next year’s summer sewing:

  • I need more colour!
  • I want some more vowen, slightly looser tops
  • Viscose knits are lovely to wear in warm weather, but I need to stay clear of the nightgown feeling they can give me
  • I’d like more practical shorts – cargo style – for hikes and similar outings.

Also I’m likely to find lovely fabrics over the year to come, so who know what I’ll want to sew then…

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Sewn: Coral Shorts

Growing up, my dad was a blood donor. So, I remember joining him on some occasions to the blood bank for his donations and when I was in uni I became a blood donor myself. This was fueled on by peer pressure as our department at the university hospital was really close to the blood bank and a few of my class mates were also donors, we egged each other on. The downside was that they were male and could donate on the same schedule whereas I, as female, had to wait one month longer in between times. Since then I’ve kept it up, of course with some interruptions for having kids and such.

Donating blood is completely altruistic and you have to live with the fact that if a drunk driver and their victim need blood at the same time, your blood might go to the drunk driver. In the same manner, we are not allowed to take monetary compensation, but we do get a choice of three gifts. I have very often chosen bags, so I have a selection of blood donor bags; a backpack, a foldable backpack, a tote bag, a gym bag and now a picnic bag, which was my latest choice.

This t-shirt is 2 years old and I wore it on a day off, to donate some blood and finish these shorts. The fabric is a leftover from some trousers I sewed last year and I inadvertently copied the fashion photo from my issue of Knipmode. These shorts were a quick project, I just wanted to use up that last bit and get new shorts. I love the pocket/belt loop hybrid in the front. I didn’t pay too much attention to fit, as the fabric was stretch twill and they looked quite loose around the legs of the model. Well, they ended up very tight across the bum and the thighs, all that time on my new race bike and gym has paid off, but it makes trousers tighter. There is a very good reason why I’m not showing any pictures of the back, it’s not a pretty sight.

These shorts will probably just be worn around the house, maybe outside the house with a long t-shirt. But for a quick, simple, stash-busting project, they’re still OK.

The Denim Skirt of Rectangles

Sometimes you just want to sew something mindless. Engage your hands in something, but not something that requires too much concentration or skill. New Year’s Day was a day like that. I was tired from a night of good company, good food and many good drinks, plus my daughter had a nasty cough as well. Needless to say, I needed some sewing time, but I wasn’t up for undertaking any project with many details or where precise sewing was required.

When adding the belt loops, I didn’t realise that the front was was right in the CF. So the belt’s a bit off on the side.

Enter the Trijntje skirt! I’d been planning to sew a weekender skirt, i.e. a skirt that is comfortable to wear around the house or doing weekend errands. Simple enough. The denim was a remnant from my Denim Pinda pants so I had what I had and needed to work around that.

See, all rectangles. But they’re great to sew on New Year’s Day!

I’m not entirely sure this pattern even qualify as a pattern. Let me tell you what it is: It is to rectangles sewn together with two rectangles sewn on top. Then some rectangles are sewn in the top to form a casing to pull the elastic through and voilà: a skirt! Some pretty topstitching hide the fact that it’s all just a bunch of rectangle sewing. Which is, in fact, the perfect New Year’s Day sewing. I didn’t even bother to trace this “pattern” I just measured the pieces and transferred the measurements to the fabric.

The rectangle skirt, as styled in Knipmode

The styling in the magazine (Knipmode 04/2018) included a self-belt, but I didn’t have enough fabric for that, having already shortened the skirt to account for the yardage I had. I intended to make the belt loops though, as to wear the skirt with a regular belt. Then I misplaced the last scrap, believing I had thrown them away (that’s what I get for cleaning my sewing room!) and scrapped (pun, intended) that idea. However, the elastic is a bit too long to hold up the weight of the skirt on its own (very comfortable though) and I cursed past me for loosing that last piece.

This skirt does its job; provides a good leisure skirt

Then I was sorting my fabric and this time the cleaning paid off. Hidden among my knits I found that missing piece of denim and I could proceed to add the belt loops, 1 month after completing the rest of the skirt.

2019 Sewing Bottom 5

As I only reopened this blog in October this year, I have made a lot of things that has not been recorded on the internet, save for Instagram. But here’s the drawback of Instagram, try finding those things again. Plus, when originally posted we tend to look at our projects with those “new love” eyes, whereas the true opinion of something comes with wear, or in the case of clothes, non-wear. In that respect maybe the misses are more interesting than the hits and I will begin with those.

Toto, green corduroy skirt

Wrinkles galore, corduroy is tricky to press.

Before making this skirt, I researched it on the internets, as I always do. That big pleat in the front was quite a divider among those who had sewn it, but I liked the cool-ness it gave the skirt. However, I either measured wrong, traced wrong or the sizing’s off because this skirt ended up way too big. I can keep it up with a belt, but this creates this minor paper bag waist that is too small to look intentional. I’m not sure how to take this one in because of the slanted pockets and kick pleat in the back. Pattern from Jenny Hellström Ruas’ book Sy! Från hood till skjortkänning

Green v-neck top

I like the colour, but not sure about the rest, I think I need a dart for these types of tops

As with many of the clothes that I don’t end up wearing, I usually like the idea of something. With this, dart-less simple top from a Fashion Style Magazine (hate that name, but I digress) I thought it would give me a cool vibe and more comfort in the fact that not all clothes need to be fitted. I probably should have made some sort of dart less FBA on this top as it keeps on riding down, making that V a bit indecent, especially for work. Plus it’s a bit short on me. At first I really liked it and figured I could make a more fancy top in a cupro, now I’m glad I didn’t jump to that gun, so my cupro can be saved for something else.

Deck of cards top

Only picture I could find to represent this project. The lack of shape should have been obvious to me from the drawing.

In need for some more knit tops I picked up this ponte from the remnant bin at Stoff och Stil. It’s not polka dots, but rather the  suits of a deck. The fabric piece I had was small, so it was hard to find a pattern and then I needed some creative cutting. I had a hard time finding a pattern and settled on a top with a yoke. I made no effort to compensate for the fact that my pattern had sleeves whereas I sewed it sleeveless which shows. Plus it could stand to be a bit more fitted, now it kind of just hangs.

White and silver blouse

Too bulky. But I like the heart on the belt, that’s a keeper!

Another case where I tried a new to me silhouette. It wasn’t a perfect fabric-to-pattern match as the seersucker is a bit stiff. As it was a Burda pattern, I couldn’t quite figure out how to sew the placket correctly and I assumed that it was elastic creating the gathers in the neckline. It wasn’t. You sew basting stitches, gather and then create some pouf by adding a piece of fabric with the neckline fabric and self-facing. Quite an odd method. I don’t really like wearing this blouse, the shape is off and it’s too high in the neck for my comfort.

Coral zipper trousers

I still wear them and they’re awesome with my Lego shirt, but the fit is so off

I need more trousers in my wardrobe. Period. I wanted to add some colourful ones, and there ones fit that bill. I also like all the zipper details and the pocket in the back is a patch pocket/welt pocket sort of hybrid with a zipper thrown in for good measure. It was my second pair of trousers from the Allt om handarbete magazine this year and now I’ve come to realise that their block just don’t fit me. In no way I am saying I expect a good fit right off the pattern sheet, but these are pretty far off and for example Burdastyle would be a better starting point for me. So while I love the trousers in theory – the colour! the zippers! – in  practice they just don’t get worn a lot.

 

During my Christmas holidays (18 days without work!) I plan to do a serious wardrobe purge and cleaning. I think my wardrobe will feel empty, but it’ll be the clothes I wear, as opposed to just hanging there for decoration. I’ve said this many times before, so we’ll see how it goes once I face the fact.