Category Archives: Jenny Hellström

Me-Made May, the first half

While I do share my outfits every day on Instagram, I want to share them here too. To really make myself think about my outfits, what I like and what I don’t like.

Day 1: Meeting people. At a distance, of course. Wearing Checkered Chardon, a Megan Nielsen Briar in linen knit and a double gause Simplicity 8610 jacket.
Since I was actually leaving the house this day, I tried to combine things in a new way. It kind of works. I’m still debating whether or not I should add a button to the jacket.

Day 2: Staying casual at home in Waffle Patterns Pinda pants and Burda 11/2019 hoodie.
Casual and comfy. Nothing more, nothing less.

Day 3: Wearing Waffle Patterns Pinda Pants, RTW tank and Megan Nielsen Briar. And thrifted pink Converse.
I had to rush out as soon as the store opened as we were out of toilet paper (we’re so not hoarding!) and something for the kid to bring to scouting. Tired, but comfy and I had those pink shoes to cheer me up!

Day 4-6, all working from home in knit tops.
On 4 and 5 I’m wearing a wrap top from Burda 02/2020, thrifted trousers on day 4 and my Olga skirt on day 5. I love the colour of the top and the details of the skirt. And look at those lime green leaves in the background! Day 6 is a meh outfit. Both pieces are from Allt om Handarbete (top, trousers) and I need to make so many adjustments to get them to fit, both in terms of sizing and other alterations, that I think I’m done with that company. The colour scheme is nice, though, and the top is a bit better with a belt.

Day 7-9Day 7: I won the Hey June Lane Raglan in an IG giveaway and after six weeks of travelling from the US it arrived and I already had a fabric dedicated to it. A nice and comfy t-shirt, I like the fit since the pattern came with a built in FBA and I like the paint effect of the blue stripes.
Day 8: I went all out with blue shades today! This dress is so comfortable, but still with a nice shape. The fabric is pique and the free pattern is from Swedish designer Jenny Hellström. Rest is RTW. While in theory I would want a me-made denim jacket I don’t see the point as this jacket is perfectly fine. Once it’s worn out, we’ll talk.
Day 9: I went on a pre-breakfast bikeride and while waiting for the family parkour with my daughter I threw on some old sweat pants and a t-shirt. They served their purpose for keeping me clothed, but not sweating on anything precious

Day 10: Lane Raglan again. Handstitching a hem on a dress in one of my favourite fabrics.
Day 11: Pinda pants, a slouchy cardigan in linen knit (refashioned from a me-made warp cardigan) and an Allt om handarbete knit blouse. This knit blouse is OK, despite my complaining of the company earlier. And, while not shown, I like to think my sleeves are better matched than their own example.
Day 12: OK, so I wore the same outfit as yesterday, but got around the issue by wearing a me-made top for the gym. This is a nice airy top, but it’s quite tricky to put on, and it does show off my efforts at the gym.

Day 13: Olga skirt and grey MN Briar. I like the silhouette of this outfit, but, as can be seen in the two Briar outfits above, the neckline is very wide on me. And then I’ve taken in the knit one!
Day 14: These trousers have so many cool details (that I effectively hide) and I love the colour, but the fit is off as they are Allt om handarbete. Their block and I are just not compatible! The linen knit works like this, a bit slouchy (in the best way) over a tank. It was an experiment and while OK, not great.
Day 15: It was grey, windy and raining, so I decided to wear some blue skies and flowers. Clothes can help elevate your mood! The pattern is New Look 6301 and it’s comfortable and put together. A great dress!

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2019 Sewing Bottom 5

As I only reopened this blog in October this year, I have made a lot of things that has not been recorded on the internet, save for Instagram. But here’s the drawback of Instagram, try finding those things again. Plus, when originally posted we tend to look at our projects with those “new love” eyes, whereas the true opinion of something comes with wear, or in the case of clothes, non-wear. In that respect maybe the misses are more interesting than the hits and I will begin with those.

Toto, green corduroy skirt

Wrinkles galore, corduroy is tricky to press.

Before making this skirt, I researched it on the internets, as I always do. That big pleat in the front was quite a divider among those who had sewn it, but I liked the cool-ness it gave the skirt. However, I either measured wrong, traced wrong or the sizing’s off because this skirt ended up way too big. I can keep it up with a belt, but this creates this minor paper bag waist that is too small to look intentional. I’m not sure how to take this one in because of the slanted pockets and kick pleat in the back. Pattern from Jenny Hellström Ruas’ book Sy! Från hood till skjortkänning

Green v-neck top

I like the colour, but not sure about the rest, I think I need a dart for these types of tops

As with many of the clothes that I don’t end up wearing, I usually like the idea of something. With this, dart-less simple top from a Fashion Style Magazine (hate that name, but I digress) I thought it would give me a cool vibe and more comfort in the fact that not all clothes need to be fitted. I probably should have made some sort of dart less FBA on this top as it keeps on riding down, making that V a bit indecent, especially for work. Plus it’s a bit short on me. At first I really liked it and figured I could make a more fancy top in a cupro, now I’m glad I didn’t jump to that gun, so my cupro can be saved for something else.

Deck of cards top

Only picture I could find to represent this project. The lack of shape should have been obvious to me from the drawing.

In need for some more knit tops I picked up this ponte from the remnant bin at Stoff och Stil. It’s not polka dots, but rather the  suits of a deck. The fabric piece I had was small, so it was hard to find a pattern and then I needed some creative cutting. I had a hard time finding a pattern and settled on a top with a yoke. I made no effort to compensate for the fact that my pattern had sleeves whereas I sewed it sleeveless which shows. Plus it could stand to be a bit more fitted, now it kind of just hangs.

White and silver blouse

Too bulky. But I like the heart on the belt, that’s a keeper!

Another case where I tried a new to me silhouette. It wasn’t a perfect fabric-to-pattern match as the seersucker is a bit stiff. As it was a Burda pattern, I couldn’t quite figure out how to sew the placket correctly and I assumed that it was elastic creating the gathers in the neckline. It wasn’t. You sew basting stitches, gather and then create some pouf by adding a piece of fabric with the neckline fabric and self-facing. Quite an odd method. I don’t really like wearing this blouse, the shape is off and it’s too high in the neck for my comfort.

Coral zipper trousers

I still wear them and they’re awesome with my Lego shirt, but the fit is so off

I need more trousers in my wardrobe. Period. I wanted to add some colourful ones, and there ones fit that bill. I also like all the zipper details and the pocket in the back is a patch pocket/welt pocket sort of hybrid with a zipper thrown in for good measure. It was my second pair of trousers from the Allt om handarbete magazine this year and now I’ve come to realise that their block just don’t fit me. In no way I am saying I expect a good fit right off the pattern sheet, but these are pretty far off and for example Burdastyle would be a better starting point for me. So while I love the trousers in theory – the colour! the zippers! – in  practice they just don’t get worn a lot.

 

During my Christmas holidays (18 days without work!) I plan to do a serious wardrobe purge and cleaning. I think my wardrobe will feel empty, but it’ll be the clothes I wear, as opposed to just hanging there for decoration. I’ve said this many times before, so we’ll see how it goes once I face the fact.

Sewn: Really Awesome T-shirts

We surprised the kids with a trip to Legoland this summer I wanted to add an additional surprise to make them dress properly for the occasion. On the second day of our Legoland stay the kids took on the park in colourful attire and received plenty of attention. I did not wear any of my Lego-shirts in the park (the jersey was too thick for the heat we had).

Two kids dressed as kids

Legoland is not that big and the two days we spent there were more than enough. The rides were just big and scary enough for the two kids (ages 6&9) and not too childish for us adults. My favourite ride was the pirate boats where all riders and spectators could shoot water at each and getting soaked was quite nice in the 30-ish degree weather we had. Plus the attention to Lego details is so good, I was really impressed. Big Lego-blocks outside, Lego-decorations in the hotel room at Legoland hotel, signs in Lego and my favourite: French fries at the buffet as Legos.

We ran into Emmet Brickowski in the Lego store, appropriately dressed.

I used generic t-shirt patterns for the kids, from Burda and Allt om handarbete, but don’t ask me to recite a pattern number or even the magazine issue. Like I said, generic t-shirt patterns. The armscye on Gustav’s t-shirt came out a bit too big and the sleeve hem allowance too small, so the sleeves are not perfect, but he is still constantly wearing the t-shirt, when it’s not in the wash that is. Erika also likes hers, but with so much to choose from in her wardrobe the Lego shirt is not selected that often. Maybe I need to turn it right side out since the back is white and she might not see it…

Dressed for work. I also made those trousers, but they deserve a post of their own.

All the tops were sewn up pretty quickly since they were fairly basic patterns. Although, by the end of project Lego t-shirts I was quite fed up with Lego fabric, knit fabrics and assembly line sewing. The t-shirts were well received, I turned a few heads and caused some smiles when I wore the Stella to work, and the Legoland surprise was awesome, cause in Lego Everything is Awesome!

Close up of my top. I really like the shape and fit of this top.

The details

Patterns:

Generic kid t-shirt patterns from Burda and/or Allt om handarbete
Stella T-shirt from Jenny Hellström’s book Sy! Från hood till skjortklänning
Sleeveless top, Allt om handarbete 104-04-2019

Fabric:

Klossar (blocks) from Jofotex. Yes, they are called Blocks as it is not copyright Lego fabric. Like when the Simpsons went to Blockoland.

 

The Queen Skirt

One of my guilty pleasures is royal fashion. I love looking at the gala dresses after a big event or looking at the everyday wear, trying to up my fashion sense. Of course what we do associate most with royals is just the gala dresses, but they are quite hard to work into the everyday wardrobe of a commoner. The way this guilty pleasure takes form is mainly reading blogs about royal fashion, but I do also have a book on the subject “Royal Style” by Ebba von Sydow. In it there’s a picture of Queen Margrethe of Denmark, wearing a lovely yellow dress. I have tried to find this picture online, but with no success, so here’s a photograph of a book:

Ett av mina skämskuddenöjen är kungligt mode. Jag älskar att titta på galaklänningarna efter någon stor händelse eller bara studera deras vardagskläder för att piffa till min egen stil. Visst är det så att galaklänningarna är det vi associerar mest med kungligheterna, men det är rätt svårt att få in dem i en undersåtes garderob. När jag tar fram denna skämskudde läser jag oftast bloggar om just kungligt mode, men jag har faktiskt också i mina ägor ”Kungligt snygg” av Ebba von Sydow. I den boken finns en bild på drottning Margrethe av Danmark, då hon bär en underbar gul klänning. Jag har försökt att hitta den på nätet, men utan framgång. Här är ett fotografi av en bok:

 Queen margrethe of Denmark

 

I really like this dress, it’s cheerful and fun and Margrethe shows us that colour is not just for young people. That said, I’m not sure I could pull off a yellow dress, but it’s a fun dress.

Jag gillar denna klänning, den är glad och rolig och Margrethe visar oss att färg är inte bara för unga människor. Med det sagt, så är jag inte säker på att en gul klänning skulle passa mig, men det är fortfarande en rolig klänning.

Floral skirt

This fabric captured my interest when it first was released. While the only common denominator with Margrethe’s dress is the flowers I still made a connection in my head. Since the fabric is viscose, which I don’t like working with, I was a bit reluctant to buy it, but when I found a piece in the remnant bin I couldn’t resist. The fabric has been in my stash for quite some time and The Monthly Stitch’s flower power theme was just the push I needed to actually do something with this fabric.

Jag gillade detta tyg direkt när det släpptes. Även om den enda gemensamma nämnaren med Margrethes klänning är blommorna, gjorde jag ändå en koppling mellan dessa i mitt huvud. Eftersom tyget är viskos, ett tyg jag inte gillar, så var jag inte jättesugen på att köpa det, men när jag hittade en bit i stuvlådan så kunde jag inte motstå det. Tyget har legat i mitt förråd rätt länge och blom-temat hos The Monthly Stitch var precis den spark i rumpan jag behövde för att äntligen göra något med detta tyg.

Floral skirt

Many garments have circulated in my mind. A blouse, a dress (although, there was never enough fabric for a dress), a skirt of varying complicacy. In the end I went the easiest of all routes and did a dirndl skirt. I used the Coco Skirt pattern from Jenny Hellström’s Sy! Från Hood till skjortklänning, because I saw no point in “drafting” my own dirndl pattern when I had one at home, someone else had already figured out the proportions, even if I shortened the skirt a bit.

Många olika idéer har funnits. En blus, en klänning (fast, det fanns inte tillräcklig med tyg), kjolar av varierande komplexitet. Till sist tog jag den allra lättaste vägen och gjorde en dirndl-kjol.  Jag använde Coco-mönstret ur Jenny Hellströms Sy! Från hood till skjortklänning, eftersom jag inte såg någon som helst poäng i att rita ett eget mönster, när jag redan hade ett. Någon annan hade redan listat ut rätt proportioner, även om jag kortade kjolen något.

Floral skirt

By the end of working with this skirt my 3-year old came up and admired the fabric. By then all I had was my skirt and scraps. She said she really liked it and luckily the store still had this print in stock, in jersey. I picked some up and she requested a skirt, so I made her a circle skirt. There’s still some left so I can make her a top as well. I guess I’ll be matching my daughter. Good thing she is totally awesome.

Mot slutet av arbetet kom min tre-åring fram och beundrade tyget. Då fanns det min kjol och i övrigt rester. Hon sade att hon gillade tyget och som tur var fanns detta tryck fortfarande på Stoff och Stil, fast i jersey. Jag köpte lite och hon beställde en kjol, jag sydde en enkel cirkelkjol. Jag har tyg kvar så jag kan sy en topp av något slag. Jag antar att jag kommer att matcha min dotter. Tur att hon är en häftig unge.

 The blouse is another handmade creation that I’ll talk more about soon. The skirt/blouse outfit was my contribution for April’s Flower Power theme on The Monthly Stitch.

Blusen är också hemmasydd och jag kommer att berätta mer om den framöver. Denna klädsel var mitt bidrag till aprils blomtema hos The Monthly Stitch.

2016 Spring Plan Completed

Spring has sprung! Or has it? My spring plan is now complete and I find that I can hardly wear any of the pieces. Apparently in my mind spring is warm; bare legs and light jackets. Are you surprised when I say it’s not? I have learnt my lesson for next year, spring is not warm, spring is not bare legs and light jackets.

Våren är här! Eller är den? Min vårplan är nu komplett och jag inser att jag inte än kan bära något av plaggen. I mitt sinne är våren uppenbarligen varm med bara ben och tunna jackor. Det är inte så överraskande när jag säger att så är icke fallet. Jag har lärt mig en läxa till nästa års plan: våren är inte varm, våren är inte bara ben och tunna jackor.

Helena 2016 vårplan
The plan

Although I’m still awaiting my warmer spring, my spring plan is completed. The plan I presented back in January had four pieces, the finished plan has five pieces and I never did sew that Taffy. What can I say, bias cut scares me. Viscose also scares me with its perpetual shifting, so combining those two was a mountain far too high for me to climb. But I still have five other pieces to mix and match for a springtime look.

Även om jag fortfarande väntar på min varma vår så är min vårplan klar. Planen som jag presenterade i januari hade fyra plagg, den färdiga planen har fem och jag sydde visst aldrig Taffy. Jag kan inte säga mer än att skrådden skrämmer mig. Viskos skrämmer också mig med sitt eviga glidande, en kombination av de två blev ett för högt hinder att ta mig över. Men jag har fortfarande fem plagg att mixa för en vårlook.

White Tiger Jacket: This jacket has still to see the light of day, but I’m counting the days (or the temperature) until I can wear it. I hope the jacket won’t feel like too much when I do wear it since I’m very proud of it.

Vit tigerjacka: Denna jacka har inte burits men jag räknar dagarna och graderna tills jag kan ha den. Jag hoppas att jag inte kommer att känna att jackan är ”för mycket” när jag väl bär den eftersom jag är stolt över den.

Aqua Skirt: I haven’t worn this skirt either, but I’m thinking it could work with tights as well as bare legs. It’s flattering and practical and my guess is that it will see high rotation. Somehow, if I can’t wear a garment hot off the sewing machine it falls back into needing a special moment to be worn. I never know what I’m waiting for.
Aquakjol: Jag har inte burit denna kjol heller, men den borde funka med strumpbyxor lika bra som med bara ben. Den är smickrande och praktiskt och jag gissar att den kommer att bäras mycket. På nåt sätt, om jag inte bär ett plagg direkt när det är nytt faller det in i att behöva ett speciellt tillfälle. Jag vet aldrig vad jag väntar på.

Tiramisu top: I like that I sewed a casual knit top, but with all my fitting issues it doesn’t look as I imagined it. I love the fabric I used, so I hope I will feel comfortable in it when I wear it.
Tiramisu-topp: Jag gillar att jag fick med ett lite ledigare trikåplagg, men med alla bekymmer jag hade så ser den inte riktigt ut som jag tänkte mig. Jag älskar tyget, så jag hoppas att jag känner mig bekväm i den när jag bär den.

Olga Skirt: Love, love, love! This has been worn and I love the fabric and lines of the skirt. This will be worn until it rips in pieces and that will be a very sad day.
Olga-kjol: Kärlek! Denna har burits många gånger och jag älskar tyget och linjerna i kjolen. Denna kommer jag nog att bära tills den faller i bitar, vilket kommer att bli sorgligt.

90s Blouse: I have come to the realization that I am not a bold print person. I prefer solids and texture and if I have prints they must be small scale. Like this blouse. I wanted a casual blouse and this one fits the bill. It is still a bit stiff, but I’m hoping it will get softer and smoother with wear and wash.
90-talsblus: Jag har insett att jag är inte en person för stora, starka mönster. Jag föredrar enfärgat och om jag ska ha mönstrat ska det vara småmönstrat. Som denna blus. Jag ville ha en ledig blus, vilket denna passar in på. Den är lite stel, men jag hoppas att den mjukar upp lite när jag bär och tvättar den.

photo-collage-maker_ibsncv.png.png
The garments

In addition to these planned garments I have also done some non-planned sewing. In February The Monthly Stitch’s theme was UFO Showdown so I took the opportunity to finish two skirts lingering around (Leaf skirt, Jade Skirt). A skirt is also what I’ll be sewing for half of April’s theme of Flower Power. Needless to say, when I’m planning my summer sewing I will not sew skirts. The idea is to continue building so my summer pieces can be worn with these spring pieces. (and dresses. Summer needs dresses).

Förutom dessa planerade plagg har jag också sytt lite oplanerat. I februari var temat i The Monthly Stitch UFO (ofärdiga plagg) so jag tog tillfället i akt att färdigställa två kjolar som låg här (Bladkjolen, Jade-kjol). Jag kommer också att sy en kjol till hälften av aprils tema Flower Power. När jag planerar min sommarsömnad kommer jag inte ha med kjolar. Tanken är att fortsätta bygga så att sommarplaggen kan bäras med dessa vårplagg. (och klänningar. Sommar betyder klänningar).

I’m pleased with my new additions and the fact that they mix and match, so all I need now is warmer weather!

Jag är nöjd med mina nya tillskott och faktumet att de matchar så bra, nu behöver jag bara varmare väder!

Creation: Olga in Denim

Olga skirt

Meet Olga, my new best friend! After all the work that was my Tiramisu-top, I went back to what I love. Crisp fabric, interesting style lines, woven fabric.

Här är Olga, min nya kompis! Efter allt arbete jag lade ner på min Tiramisu-topp återgick jag till vad jag älskar. Lätthanterat tyg, intressanta linjer, vävt tyg.

Interesting lines
Interesting lines

Since its release in 2013, this skirt has been very popular in the Swedish sewing community, making rounds and rounds. It was finally time for me to jump on that bandwagon. And what a fun bandwagon it was! This skirt was so much fun to sew with the pockets, the gathers, the topstitching and the fabric was a dream to work with it, behaved very well and also took well to pressing.

Sedan Jenny Hellström släppte sin bok Sy! Från hood till skjortklänning har denna kjol varit väldigt populär hos svenska synördar. Nu var det äntligen dags för mig att hoppa på det tåget. Och vilket kul tåg det var! Jag hade riktigt roligt när jag sydde denna kjol, med fickorna, rynket, stickningarna och tyget som var underbart att arbeta med, det skötte sig bra och blev snyggt när det pressades.

Olga skirt

This fabric probably also accounts for the shortest time spent in my stash. It is a thin denim I fell in love with the second Stoff och Stil’s spring collection was released. I bought it, with the intention of making an Olga, and here she is, just a few weeks later and the fabric has already turned into a skirt. The pockets are lined with and patterned cotton fabric since I didn’t buy enough of the denim and the star buttons (more love!) was bought for an idea that was never realized.

Tyget vinner också tävlingen för att ha tillbringat kortast tid i mitt förråd. Det är ett tunt denimtyg som jag blev kär i direkt när Stoff och stil släppte sin vårkollektion. Jag köpte det med intentionen att sy en Olga och här är hon, bara några veckor senare har tyget förvandlats till en kjol. Fickorna är fodrade med ett tryckt bomullstyg eftersom jag köpte lite för lite av denimet och stjärnknapparna (mer kärlek!) köpte jag till en idé som aldrig förverkligades.

Up the skirt shot of Minnie courtesy of Erika who wanted in on the Picture (I cropped her out)
Up the skirt shot of Minnie courtesy of Erika who wanted in on the Picture (I cropped her out)

As you can see from the line drawing, the skirt is supposed to have a ruffle at the bottom. While I’m not normally a frills and ruffle person, I thought that I might get away with it due to the simple fabric (not a bad thing). Plus most versions I’ve seen features the ruffle and they have looked good. So, I sewed plenty of basting, gathered, attached the ruffle, spent time taking out the basting. Just as an FYI I can tell you that the ruffle had a circumference of 2.4 metres. Once I tried the skirt on, ruffle and all, I felt like I should braid my hair and run down a grass hill Little House on the Prairie style. Especially when I went downstairs and the ruffle swooshed around my legs. Not pretty. My husband actually didn’t think it was that bad, but I didn’t like it so I took the whole thing out. Cutting it out, since the denim is lightweight I knew the ripper would damage it anyway and I would have to even it out. It was later hemmed with some light blue bias tape I had laying around. Perfect match!

Av den tekniska ritningen kan en se att kjolen ska ha en volang längst ner. Normalt är jag inte så mycket för volanger och annat pynt, men jag tänkte att med detta enkla tyg (inte en dålig sak) kunde det kanske fungera. Dessutom har de flesta versioner jag har sett haft volangen och sett bra ut. Så jag tråcklade massor, rynkade, sydde fast volangen och sprättade tråckelstygnen. Som information kan jag berätta att volangens omkrets är 2,4 meter. När jag väl provade kjolen, med volang och allt, kände jag mig som att jag borde fläta håret och springa nerför en gräskulle i sann Lilla huset på prärien-anda. Speciellt när jag gick nerför trappan och volangen hoppade runt min ben. Inte snyggt. Min man tyckte faktiskt inte att det såg så dåligt ut, men jag gillade inte den, såg jag tog bort hela volangen. Jag klippte bort den eftersom denimet var så tunt att sprättare skulle ändå ha skadat det och jag hade varit tvungen att klippa bort de skadade bitarna. Istället fållade jag kjolen med lite ljusblå snedslå som låg här hemma. Perfekt matchning!

Pocket detail
Pocket detail

If I hadn’t been made clear I totally love this skirt and I can see why it’s such a big hit. The fabric I chose was a perfect pairing and the stars are just right. I was so happy with this skirt that I want to buy the same material so I can replicate it should my body change or the fabric tear. Would that be crazy? (It might not be totally serious, but it says something about how much I like this skirt)

Om det inte har framgått så älskar jag denna kjol och jag förstår varför den är så populär. Tyget jag valde var en perfekt matchning och stjärnorna är helt rätt. Jag är så nöjd med denna kjol att jag funderade om jag skulle köpa en uppsättning till av materialet så jag skulle kuna kopiera den om min kropp ändras eller om tyget slits sönder. Är det helt galet? (Det kanske inte är helt seriöst, men det säger lite om hur mycket jag gillar kjolen)

While it wasn’t on my original spring plan, I had two open spots left to make up six garments, so this is one of my additions. Chances are I will live in this skirt all spring and summer!

Den var inte på min originalplan för våren, men jag hade två öppna platser upp till sex plagg, denna är ett av mina tillägg. Det är stor sannolikhet att jag kommer att bo i denna kjol till våren och sommaren!

 

Pattern: Olga skirt from Sy! Från hood till skjortklänning by Jenny Hellström
Fabric: Lightweight denim, Stoff och stil. Cotton weave for pocket facing
Notions: Invisible zipper, interfacing, Pants hook and eye, Star buttons, cotton bias tape.

Mönster: Olga kjol från Sy! Från hood till skjortklänning av Jenny Hellström
Tyg: Tunt denim, Stoff och Still. Tryckt bomullsväv till fickfoder.
Sybehör: Osynligt blixtlås, byxhäktor, stjärnknappar, bomullssnedslå.

 

Creation: The White Tiger Jacket

Kitty Jacket (5)

Woo-hoo, I made a jacket! A jacket that is lined, has a collar, two-part sleeves. It might not be perfect, but it is fun and I’ve learnt a lot to take with me into future jacket endeavors.

Tjo-ho, jag har sytt en jacka! En fodrad jacka med krage och tvådelade ärmar. Det kan vara så att den inte är helt perfekt, men den är rolig och jag har lärt mig mycket att ta vidare till kommande jack-äventyr.

Princess seams and pockets
Princess seams and pockets

The pattern I used is the Kitty Jacket from Jenny Hellström’s book Sy! Urban Collection. The jacket features princess seams, a two-part sleeve, collar, pockets and a lining. I did a lot of prep work on this, and in some ways maybe this jacket should be considered a wearable muslin, although I’m not sure I’ll make an actual piece. First of all, I had 19 pattern pieces to trace since the outer jacket and the lining jacket were not identical. I lengthened the pattern above the bust, to account for my long torso, I did an FBA, which I had to do on both the inner and outer jacket, and I added length at the bottom since the jacket was designed to end at waist level. Then I forgot to add the same length for the lining (luckily I remembered to do it above the bust), but the lining wasn’t supposed to be attached to the bottom hem anyway so I could get away with. Yes, the lining is a bit shorter than the shell, but it’s on the inside and not something that is seen when I wear the jacket.

Mönstret är Kitty från Jenny Hellströms bok Sy! Urban Collection. Jackan har prinsesskärning, en delad ärm, krage, fickor och foder. Det gick in mycket förarbete i denna jacka och på ett sätt kanske denna jacka borde ses som ett provplagg, men jag är inte säker på att den följs av ett riktigt plagg. Först och främst: mönstret har 19 mönsterdelar att rita av eftersom ytterjacka och foderjacka inte är likadana. Jag förlängde mönstret ovanför bysten för att ta hänsyn till min långa torso, jag gjorde en justering för stor byst, både på ytter- och innerjackan, och till sist lade jag till längd längst ner eftersom jackan är designad att sluta vid midjan. Sen glömde jag att lägga till samma längd längst ner på foderjackan (som tur var kom jag ihåg det ovan bysten), men fodret skulle ändå inte sitta fast vid ytterjackan så det funkade ändå. Ja, fodret är lite kortare än ytterjackan, men det är på insidan och kommer inte att synas.

Kitty line drawing
Kitty line drawing

The fabric I used for the outer jacket is a stretch twill. Stoff och stil describes the print as a zebra print, but I think it’s more of a tiger print. A white tiger, perhaps? The stretch twill probably is slightly too heavy and thick for this design (although denim is one of the recommended fabric) as I found it a bit too bulky in certain places, mostly around the collar and facings, basically where I have two layers. The lining is a thin cotton, with tiny polka dots (same type of fabric as in my old Vanessa skirt). I chose not to use a typical lining fabric as this is a spring jacket and it’s likely I’ll have short sleeves under it, a poly or acetate lining just doesn’t feel nice on the skin. The cuffs are sewn in ribbing, I like them, they give the jacket a casual look, they hold the sleeves up on my short arms and hold them in on my narrow wrists. Sewing – a great way to accept and embrace your body’s unique quirks!

Tyget till ytterjackan är ett stretchtwill från Stoff och stil. Det beskrivs som ett zebratryck, men i mina ögon är det mer ett tigertryck. En vit tiger, kanske? Tyget är nog lite för tungt och tjockt för denna designen (fast denim är ett rekommenderat tyg) eftersom jag tyckte att det blev lite klumpigt på vissa ställen, mest runt kragen och infodringarna, dvs. där jag har två lager. Fodret är ett tunt bomullstyg med små prickar (samma typ av tyg som i min gamla Vanessa-kjol). Jag ville inte ha ett vanlgit fodertyg eftersom jackan är en vårjacka och jag kommer antagligen ha korta ärmar under och polyester och acetat är inte skönt att ha mot huden. Manschetterna är sydda i muddväv, jag gillar dem, de ger jackan en mer vardaglig stil, de håller upp ärmarna på mina korta armar och de håller in dem runt mina smala handleder. Sömnad – ett bra sätt att acceptera och hylla kroppens unika egenheter!

Tie-bands in the back
Tie-bands in the back

I had never before made an FBA on a princess seamed bodices, so yet another thing to learn. While I have read that busty ladies like princess seams just because they are easy to FBA, I found the process longer than on a normal bodice. Personal preferences, I suppose. To help me I used Mary’s (of Idle Fancy) excellent tutorial which was easy to follow and gave me a good result.

 

Tidigare har jag aldrig gjort en FBA på ett liv med prinsessömmar, så det var ännu en ny sak att lära. Jag har läst av andra bystiga kvinnor att de gillar prinsessömmar för att de är så lätta att anpassa till stor byst, men jag kände att processen var längre än på ett vanligt liv. Det handlar om personlig smak, antar jag. Till min hjälp använde jag Mary’s (från Idle Fancy) utmärkta beskrivning, den var lätt att följa och gav bra resultat.

Fully lined!
Fully lined!

Verdict? Like I said, it might not be perfect, but I am still thrilled with my very first successful jacket! It makes me happy and I don’t care about the minor flaws. If someone were to mention them, I hope it will result in an engaging conversation regarding sewing techniques. It also feels great to be over the hurdle of having sewn a jacket, the next time I’ll make a jacket it’ll be better. That’s how I learn, by making things, trying new things, using the experiences to my advantage. Until I’m ready to make a new jacket, I’ll happily wear my White Tiger Jacket.

 

Min dom? Som jag sade, den kanske inte är helt perfekt, men jag är ändå glad och nöjd över min första jacka! Den gör mig glad och jag bryr mig inte om småfelen. Om nån känner sig nödgad att nämna dem, hoppas jag att det mynnar ut i en spännande diskussion om sömnadstekniker. Det känns också bra att ha kommit över hindret att ha sytt en jacka, nästa jag syr en jacka kommer den bli bättre. Det är så jag lär mig, genom att göra saker, försöka nya saker, använda erfarenheterna till min fördel. Tills jag är redo att sy en ny jacka kommer jag med glädje att använda min vita tiger-jacka.

Ribbing cuffs to finish the sleeves
Ribbing cuffs to finish the sleeves

And, my final detail. I added a hook to the back so I can hang it!

Och, min sista detalj. En krok i ryggen så jag kan hänga jackan!

I added a hook in the back
I added a hook in the back

Pattern: Kitty Jacket by Jenny Hellström
Fabric: Stretch twill, ribbing and cotton (poplin?), all Stoff och stil
Notions: Interfacing, buttons, thread
Worn with my aqua skirt

Mönster: Kitty ur Sy! Urban Collection by Jenny Hellström
Tyg: Stretchtwill, muddväv och bomull (poplin?), allt från Stoff och Stil
Sybehör: Mellanlägg, knappar, tråd
Bärs ihop med min aqua-kjol

Fall Planning 2015

I do like planning. Even if I don’t end up sewing everything I plan or deviate at times, it’s good to have something to fall back on. My plan for this fall is quite diverse, but I am hoping it can be the start of a FW wardrobe.

 

Skinny pants – Colette Clover

I made a pair of Colette Clovers in June and they fit pretty well straight out of the envelope. The fabric I’m using is a Bordeaux stretch twill.

Will go with: Slightly longer shirts and blouses, worn untucked, with cardigan over.

 

Shirt – Deer and Doe’s Bruyère

Red Chambrey
Red Chambrey

As I was ordering the Belladone dress, I couldn’t resist also getting the Bruyère shirt, especially since I already had some red Chambery in my stash for it. Unfortunately it might not be enough to make the sleeved version, but I believe I can make it work for fall even if sleeveless.

Will go with: Skinny bottoms such as pants (like a pair of bordeaux Clovers) or pencil skirts.

 

Dress – Embossed Scuba dress

Can I get away with this?
Can I get away with this?

I recently joined Instagram (ETA Sep 11: after a month I realised that Instagram was not a medium for me, so I am no longer on there. It might change in the future, but right now it wasn’t for me) and played along in the #sewphotohop organised by Rachel of House of Pinheiro. One task was to show our boldest fabric. For me it is this greyish embossed scuba knit. I want to make a dress from it, thinking along the lines of t-shirt top and half circle skirt (if I have enough fabric). I hope it can be a wearable everyday dress.

Will go with: Nothing, which is kind of the point of the dress

Jacket – Black and purple jacquard jacket

A jacket to be
A jacket to be

As I do want to progress in my sewing I decided that this fall I will sew myself a jacket. The pattern is the cover look from Burda Easy FW2014, basically the cover look. I will sew it in a wool blend jacquard and line it in a purple satin lining (there is purple behind the circles of the fabric, so perfect match when I found the lining in the remnant bin). The pattern doesn’t call for lined sleeves, but maybe I will try and figure it out since I can’t wear all types of wool (nicer wool works, poor quality makes me itch*).

Will go with: Over skinny bottoms and t-shirts or shirts.

 

Mini skirt – Mary in stretch denim

Enough to make a decent mini skirt?
Enough to make a decent mini skirt?

I’ve been wanting a denim mini skirt for quite a while and maybe it’s time. I will use the Mary skirt from Jenny Hellström’s book Sy! Urban Collection. I’ve been told the skirt runs short, as in very,very short, so I will add as much length as the fabric allows me. Could be a hit or miss, but I do want to try the look. If I don’t try, I’ll never know.

Will go with: Pretty much anything on top. Great wardrobe basic, if it doesn’t end up too short.

Stretch twill for Clovers, purple twill for skirt (too juvenile?), a knit for sweater/skirt set and textured floral jersey
Stretch twill for Clovers, purple twill for skirt (too juvenile?), a knit for sweater/skirt set and textured floral jersey

I will stick with these five pieces as my first plan as things may get bumped up to the head of the queue. But it’s good to have a planned list where I know I have all the supplies at home and can just get started. Other things that could be of interest is a denim A-line skirt (but I wonder if 10oz denim is too heavy for clothing?), a purple skirt (where I ponder if the fabric I have is too juvenile), a top (I have this interesting floral textured jersey, that I would like to make a dress of, but I think there’s only enough for a top) and a sweater/skirt set. I do have a sweatshirt planned in my mind, but no fabric for it at the moment. I might also want to do some crafting with/for the kids. As you can see, I can keep busy with sewing this fall too. I wasn’t very impressed with the fall collection at my local fabric store, Stoff och Stil, but if I were to buy something it would be this burgundy jacquard and make myself a Mortmain dress. Not that I need more dresses….

 

Jag gillar att planera. Även om jag kanske inte kommer att sy allt på min plan eller om jag någon gång avviker gillar jag har något att falla tillbaks på. Min plan denna höst har spridda skurar, men jag hoppas att det kan bli en grund till en bra höst/vinter-garderob.

 

Smala byxor – Colette Clover

Jag sydde ett par Clover-byxor i juni och de passar rätt bra utan några ändringar. Denna gång ska jag sy i vinrött stretchtwill

Passar med: Något längre skjortor och blusar, inte nedstoppade, med koftor över.

 

Skjorta – Deer and Doe’s Bruyère

När jag beställde Belladone-klänningen kunde jag inte motstå att att även köpa Bruyère-skjortan, speciellt eftersom jag redan hade röd Chambéry till den i mina gömmor. Tyvärr är där nog inte tillräckligt för att göra den med ärmar, men jag tror att jag kan få den att funka till hösten ändå, även utan ärmar.

Passar med: Smala nederdelar såsom byxor och pennkjolar

 

Klänning – Scubaklänning

Jag har nyligen gått med i Instagram (Tillagt 11/9: Efter en månad med Instagram insåg jag att det mediet var inte för mig, så just nu finns jag inte där. Det kan ändra sig i framtiden, men just nu var det inte rätt) och deltog i #sewphotohop-utmaningen. En dagsuppgift var att visa sitt mest djärva tyg. I mitt förråd är det detta scuba-tyg från Stoff och Stil. Jag vill göra en klänning av det, tänker mig en t-shirt med en halvcirkelkjol, om tyget räcker. Jag hoppas att det kan bli en bra vardagsklänning, om än lite annorlunda.

Passar med: Inget, men det är lite syftet med denna klänning och detta tyg.

 

Kavaj – Svart/lila jacquardjacka

Jag vill lära mig nytt, så jag har bestämt att denna höst ska jag sy en kavaj. Jag har tänkt använda omslagskavajen från Burda Easy FW2014. Tyget är jacquard i ullblandning och den ska fodras med lila satin (det är lila bakom cirklarna i jacquardtyget så när jag hittade fodret i stuvlådan på Stoff och Stil var det en perfekt matchning). Mönstret har inte fodrade ärmar, men jag ska försöka fodra dem ändå eftersom jag inte kan bära alla sorters ull utan att det kliar.

Passar till: Smala nederdelar såsom byxor eller kjolar

 

Minikjol – Mary i stretchdenim

Jag har länge velat ha en minikjol i denim and nu är det kanske dags. Jag kommer att använda Mary från Jenny Hellströms Sy! Urban Collection. Jag har läst hos Sytokarna att kjolen är kort, riktigt, riktigt kort, så jag kommer att lägga till så mycket längd som tyget tillåter (jag har inte jättemycket). Detta kan gå hur som helst, men jag vill prova. Försöker jag inte får jag aldrig veta.

Passar till: I princip allt. Perfekt garderobsbas, om den inte blir för kort.

 

I denna plan håller jag mig till fem plagg, med nya saker kan komma att flyttas fram på listan. Jag gillar att ha en plan, med allt material hemma så när lusten faller på är det bara att välja ett projekt. Andra saker som är av intresse är en A-linjekjol i denim (men jag undrar om mitt 10oz denim är för tjockt för kläder), en lila kjol (är tyget för barnsligt?), en topp (jag har ett intressant blommigt jerseytyg med textur, som gärna skulle få bli en klänning, men jag tror att det bara räcker till en top) och ett set med kjol och tröja i det stickade tyget. Jag har också idéer om en sweatshirt, men inget tyg hemma. Jag vill också göra något med eller till barnen. Som synes, jag ska nog kunna fylla min sytid denna höst också. Jag var inte så imponerad av Stoff och Stils höstkollektion i år, men om jag skulle köpa något skulle det bli detta vinröda jacquardtyg och så skulle jag sy mig en Mortmain-klänning. Inte för att jag behöver fler klänningar…

Creation: The Turnaround Dress

With my work on the Wardrobe Architect project I’ve come to term with my style. It’s not modern, trendy or even what anyone else might wear, but what I’ve learnt is that I’m OK with that. Sitting next to the other women at work, I feel a bit out of place, they follow trends, look modern and I’m in my me-made/thrifted/old clothes and doesn’t have an ounce of trendiness in me. Again, that’s OK. It’s not only the Wardrobe Architect project that deserves credit, all sewcialists around the world deserves credit. Because of you I’ve learnt that dressing can be fun and unique, it doesn’t have to follow trends plus the sewcialists are an empowering community. Getting involved in that community has given me strength and confidence. But I digress. I will explore my views on sewing as a lifestyle more in an upcoming post, but right now I have a dress to present!

 

Perhaps I should have pulled my dress down a bit. Ah, well
Perhaps I should have pulled my dress down a bit. Ah, well

This dress gets a little credit for pushing me into believing in what I sew. Because I love this dress and I want to wear this dress. It’s not trendy, it’s not modern, but it’s fun and it tells more about me than any modern outfit, in which I’d undoubtedly feel misplaced, would. Personality is important in my clothing, I’ve come to realise. I will wear my clothes with pride, since each piece should be carefully selected to suit me, and not worry one bit about how on trend something is.

The Turnaround dress (8)

This fabric has been in my stash for quite some time. It was first bought, in the beginning of 2012, with the intention of becoming a Colette Truffle. However, it just didn’t feel right. Then it was switched to a Burda City Dress (02-2013-XX), to showcase the print, but after I thought of that I realised that the width of the fabric was only 115 cm (45”), not enough. Enter Jenny Hellström’s Sy!-books. The Evelyn dress from the second book, Urban Collection, was a perfect match to show the fabric to its best since the dress is cut in one piece. It’s a blouse dress with a Peter Pan collar. It is very straight, having only horizontal bust darts and vertical neck darts in the back and the designer herself says that this dress needs a belt for definition. Good thing I had a perfect brown braided leather belt to go with it! I have not made any alterations to the pattern, but if I were to make it again I would lower the bust dart as it falls a little high right now (same issue on my Norah Sundress, by the same designer).

The Turnaround dress (15)

The fabric is a printed cotton, very soft to wear. The collar is made from an ordinary cotton weave. When I was itching to get the project done I first contemplated a pure white collar, hoping it wouldn’t clash too much with the cream lines. However, I had no suitable buttons, so since I couldn’t finish the dress either way, I opted to buy another collar as well, matching the purple in the flowers. Luckily I also found buttons to match the purple, to bring the accents of the dress together.

Hard to get the facing to lie flat...
Hard to get the facing to lie flat…
Puff sleeve with elastic ruching.
Puff sleeve with elastic ruching.

The dress came together fairly quickly. The instructions are pretty clear, for most part. As with my first Jenny Hellström pattern, the Midnight Sun Shirt, I found that the instructions lacked a bit when it was the most difficult bits, the collars. After sewing it wrong the first time I managed to figure out what she meant. I’ll take the lesson and read more thoroughly next time, really thinking about what I have and, more importantly, what I want after I finish the step. I will definitely use more Jenny Hellström patterns, they are, at least as far as I’ve come, well-drafted and fun, she wants us to play with fashion, which I want do too.

Creation: Norah Sundress

OK, my Spring this year had a very solid theme, fitting. It started with my “perfect knit dresses” (Rule Britannia Dress and Tie-dye Aqua Dress) back in January and then my Almas (Starry and Striped) followed suit, ending with my Anna dress. It was fitting, FBAs, muslins. In the end I’m very, very pleased with the fit on all of these garments, but it left me in the mood of wanting to make something more simple. Enter Heather B’s summer sundress sewalong. I had a piece of heavy weight polka dot cotton, stashed away. It wasn’t really suitable for office wear so a sundress seemed like the best deal for it. I did debate using Colette’s Truffle or the Jenny Hellström Norah dress. I made the latter and I’m not sure it was the best decision. However, I wanted an easy project with minimal fitting and the result reflect that. The dress is a balloon dress, described as like walking around in a minitent without feeling like a camper. Yes, this dress really is all sorts of wrong for my figure. There. This is the third pattern I make from Jenny Hellström’s Sy!-books and a few conclusions about the patterns are starting to arise.  

I was promised a tent and a tent I got
I was promised a tent and a tent I got

Firstly, the patterns could have used a thorough testing and proof reading. In two of those patterns I have found errors (in the Lily shirt there was an error in the instruction for constructing the collar, inthis Norah dress there seemed to be a discrepancy of whether or not the back piece should be cut on the fold or not as well as not illustrating the facing pieces as pattern pieces).

Seriously whose boobs are this perky? (mind you, the dart has been lowered 2.5 cm (1"))
Seriously whose boobs are this perky? (mind you, the dart has been lowered 2.5 cm (1″))

Another conclusion is that the patterns are drafted for a small, perky bust. I had noticed on my Turnaround dress (not properly blogged) that the horisontal bust darts sit very high. For my Norah I lowered them about 2.5 cm (that would be 1” in imperial) and they could have gone down a bit further. Or perhaps have benefited from an FBA, but that seemed so unnecessary on a dress of this shape and when I wanted a simple project.

I added a belt, but I'm not sure I like it that much better.
I added a belt, but I’m not sure I like it that much better.

So, a tent-look was promised and a tent-look I got. It’s not flattering at all, but it’s really comfortable. Unless that the armholes are a bit tight and then there’s the already mentioned case of the high bust dart. In order to draw it in, I sewed myself a narrow belt in the same fabric as the dress. Husband thinks it’s an improvement and sure it takes away from that tent-like feeling, but I’m not feeling the dress, even for a “lounge around the house”-dress. The fabric is a bit meh and washed out, I prefer my colours bright, plus it’s a bit too stiff to fully work as a dress.

Unflattering (for me, I'm sure other body types could make it work)
Unflattering (for me, I’m sure other body types could make it work)

  The verdict? I have worn this dress during some hot summer days and while it was comfortable in shape, I wasn’t completely comfortable in it. The sundress days are over for this year and the dress will move into the back of my closet. If it survives the full year I might wear it next summer, otherwise it might be chopped up and used for children’s clothes. We’ll see. And in the future I shouldn’t play with silhouettes I know won’t work. I knew this silhouette wouldn’t work and laziness took over since the dress was easy to make. However, had I made the Truffle it probably wouldn’t have been comfortable anyway and more time had been wasted. Do you ever find yourself disliking a garment you made? How do you treat it afterwards? Does it even make the blog?