Category Archives: Simplicity

Me-Made May, the first half

While I do share my outfits every day on Instagram, I want to share them here too. To really make myself think about my outfits, what I like and what I don’t like.

Day 1: Meeting people. At a distance, of course. Wearing Checkered Chardon, a Megan Nielsen Briar in linen knit and a double gause Simplicity 8610 jacket.
Since I was actually leaving the house this day, I tried to combine things in a new way. It kind of works. I’m still debating whether or not I should add a button to the jacket.

Day 2: Staying casual at home in Waffle Patterns Pinda pants and Burda 11/2019 hoodie.
Casual and comfy. Nothing more, nothing less.

Day 3: Wearing Waffle Patterns Pinda Pants, RTW tank and Megan Nielsen Briar. And thrifted pink Converse.
I had to rush out as soon as the store opened as we were out of toilet paper (we’re so not hoarding!) and something for the kid to bring to scouting. Tired, but comfy and I had those pink shoes to cheer me up!

Day 4-6, all working from home in knit tops.
On 4 and 5 I’m wearing a wrap top from Burda 02/2020, thrifted trousers on day 4 and my Olga skirt on day 5. I love the colour of the top and the details of the skirt. And look at those lime green leaves in the background! Day 6 is a meh outfit. Both pieces are from Allt om Handarbete (top, trousers) and I need to make so many adjustments to get them to fit, both in terms of sizing and other alterations, that I think I’m done with that company. The colour scheme is nice, though, and the top is a bit better with a belt.

Day 7-9Day 7: I won the Hey June Lane Raglan in an IG giveaway and after six weeks of travelling from the US it arrived and I already had a fabric dedicated to it. A nice and comfy t-shirt, I like the fit since the pattern came with a built in FBA and I like the paint effect of the blue stripes.
Day 8: I went all out with blue shades today! This dress is so comfortable, but still with a nice shape. The fabric is pique and the free pattern is from Swedish designer Jenny Hellström. Rest is RTW. While in theory I would want a me-made denim jacket I don’t see the point as this jacket is perfectly fine. Once it’s worn out, we’ll talk.
Day 9: I went on a pre-breakfast bikeride and while waiting for the family parkour with my daughter I threw on some old sweat pants and a t-shirt. They served their purpose for keeping me clothed, but not sweating on anything precious

Day 10: Lane Raglan again. Handstitching a hem on a dress in one of my favourite fabrics.
Day 11: Pinda pants, a slouchy cardigan in linen knit (refashioned from a me-made warp cardigan) and an Allt om handarbete knit blouse. This knit blouse is OK, despite my complaining of the company earlier. And, while not shown, I like to think my sleeves are better matched than their own example.
Day 12: OK, so I wore the same outfit as yesterday, but got around the issue by wearing a me-made top for the gym. This is a nice airy top, but it’s quite tricky to put on, and it does show off my efforts at the gym.

Day 13: Olga skirt and grey MN Briar. I like the silhouette of this outfit, but, as can be seen in the two Briar outfits above, the neckline is very wide on me. And then I’ve taken in the knit one!
Day 14: These trousers have so many cool details (that I effectively hide) and I love the colour, but the fit is off as they are Allt om handarbete. Their block and I are just not compatible! The linen knit works like this, a bit slouchy (in the best way) over a tank. It was an experiment and while OK, not great.
Day 15: It was grey, windy and raining, so I decided to wear some blue skies and flowers. Clothes can help elevate your mood! The pattern is New Look 6301 and it’s comfortable and put together. A great dress!

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The 16 Hours Coat

Where do I start? Do I start with that this my greatest sewing achievement ever? That I, in secret, is happy that this is done and my sewing will not be covered in red lint, although I’m sure I will find it around for a long time to come?

Front view. It has side pockets (I should have made them a bit bigger).

I think I’ll go with awesome. I actually made me a coat! A real coat, with lining and toggles and all that shebang. It all began with that feeling that I wanted to make something a bit more challenging. Then I noticed that my winter jacket, bought in 2011, was ripping. Now surely, being a sewer I could have fixed that. I didn’t, I chose to do a new coat instead. Then the old jacket ripped even further as I was wearing it (it’s the sleeve to bodice seam).

Back view. I like the shape of the coat, but I have some issues controlling the collars.

One of the issues I have had with coatmaking is that I’m slightly allergic to wool, it makes me itch. I don’t know if it’s all types of wool, but quite frankly I did not want to invest in a whole bunch of wool only to find out at the end of the project that the lining doesn’t do enough to keep my skin from crawling. So a polyester substitute it was. I ordered some samples from tyg.se, then I got a newsletter from them alerting a new arrival. I had wanted to make a red coat, but not too red, and now they had a perfect boucle for my project. Combined with quilted, padded lining I started out. The toggles I bought later, from Bibbis textil.

Red toggles! And a snap to keep the top closed.

The pattern I used was Simplicity 8262, designed by Leanne Marshall, winner of Project Runway season 5. I found the pattern quite easy to work with, it all came together easily, that is until I had to turn the lining. I could not wrap my head around the instructions, how to fasten the coat to the lining along with sleeves and then turn it. In the I handstitched the “turning hole” in the back bottom as well as the sleeves. It took me around 15 minutes, much shorter than what I had spent deciphering the instructions without luck.

Gold lining. And a sewing room floor. And a foot.

This coat is not perfect. There are flaws that I could have avoided. But it was my first time making a coat and it’s still so cool and I will wear it a lot as it does keep me cozy and warm. The first test run was on a particularly windy day (all days here are windy, so it’s very windy when I say particularly windy) (it also happened to be my birthday, so wearing my coat for the first time was an excellent way of celebrating myself). I made a self-belt, not sure if like it or not also I’m not sure this turquoise scarf is the best colour match. But technicalities. Bottom line: I made a freaking awesome coat!

My own label. Made in Sweden.
I also remembered to add a loop for hanging, it’s not in the pattern

The title of the post? For fun I wrote down how long each session was and what I had done during that session. In the end it added up to 16 hours spent on this coat.

 

 

 

Creations: Scuba Set

Behold the final garments of my winter plan! A scuba set (yeah, I told you  I wanted more scuba). One of those “sew two, get three” set since the idea is that the pieces can be worn together or separately with other items.

scuba set (3)

If you look at the winter plan there is no scuba set on it. This can be a good time to tell you that the jacquard set I have on the plan will never be seen. After making the scuba dress I was coveting more scuba and the jacquard fabric I had chosen on the plan didn’t feel very nice in the store, so I chose the scuba instead. Maybe I did try to find something wrong with the jacquard just so I could buy the scuba, but the wrong side did just not feel very nice and it wasn’t something I’d like to put on my skin. I successfully convinced myself that scuba was the better choice.

scuba set (8)

However, I had picked out a skirt and a cardigan to sew and neither of these pieces is that skirt or that cardigan. First I figured the scuba would be too heavy for a cardigan so I made the peplum top instead. I have this doubt in my mind that it won’t stand the test of time, but I’m hoping it won’t be too dated anytime soon. The pattern is Simplicity 1539, used for the fourth time this year but, for the first time I made it as it’s supposed to be, peplum and all! It wasn’t really hard to sew. Using a super-stretchy fabric just means no basting is needed to ease the sleeve head and even hemming a half circle peplum isn’t an issue, just stretch and no bulges will appear (I hate hemming circle/half circles for that reason). As for the sleeve length, I did imagine ¾ length, but cut them long just so I could postpone my decision. Then I accidentally cut a hole in the bottom of one sleeve, effectively telling me to use a shorter length, even though I don’t know what this length would qualify as. ¾, 7/8? I honestly have no clue. All I know is that they are a length I like.

scuba set (15)

For the skirt, I thought of a slight A-line shape, since it’s a shape I like to wear. Sometimes it’s just that easy. I had planned on a skirt from Burda Easy FW2015, but when I got the magazine I noticed that while it was shaped with panels in the front, it had darts in the back and I thought darts would be too bulky in the scuba. Instead I used the skirt from the Burdastyle Sewing Handbook. It’s designed for a woven and while the skirt part worked out OK, I’m not completely happy with the waistband, since I didn’t know how to assemble it in a knit that cannot be ironed. It’s a bit wonky, so I must wear it with something untucked so it won’t be seen. I do love the shape and length of the skirt, though.

Holding in to make pencil skirt
Holding in to make pencil skirt

Although I did sew the pieces to go together as a set, I’m not sure that the silhouettes go together very well. I think that the peplum would be better served with a pencil skirt rather than A-line. I think I have enough fabric to make a knit pencil skirt so I might sew that in the future. This is also why I never re-did my wonky waistband, I’d rather save the fabric for a whole new garment than correct the waistband.

Twirl!
Twirl!

I have now successfully completed my first plan, and have some time for unplanned sewing until it’s spring plan time. The spring plan is to be presented in late January and completed in late March. The wardrobe planning group I’m in on Facebook holds you to it, if you don’t present a plan and what you sewed you get kicked out. Tough rules, but I like them, they keep me focused. So now it’s time to begin planning what to wear in the spring.

 

Att skåda: de två sista plaggen i min vinterplan! Ett set i scuba (ja, jag sade att jag ville ha mer scuba). Ett set i ”sy två, få tre”-anda eftersom plaggen kan bäras tillsammans eller var för sig med andra plagg.

 

Om en tittar noggrant på vinterplanen är det lätt att se att där är inget scubaset i den. Jag kan också passa på att säga att jacquardsetet på planen aldrig kommer att ses. Efter att jag hade sytt scubaklänningen ville jag ha mer av det och jacquardtyget jag hade i min plan kändes inte så trevligt, däfrör valde jag scuba istället. Det kanske var så att jag medvetet försökte hitta fel på jacquarden så att jag skulle få köpa det tyg jag egentligen ville ha, men avigan kändes helt enkelt inte som något jag skulle vilja ha emot min hud. Jag lyckades alltså övertyga mig själv om att scuba var ett bättre val.

 

Inte heller är den cardigan eller kjol i min plan de plagg som jag faktiskt sydde. Scuban var för tung för att bli en cardigan, så jag gjorde toppen med skört istället. Jag har lite tvivel att den kanske kommer att kännas lite ”tidigt 10-tal” om några år, men förhoppningsvis inte alltför snart. Mönstret är Simplicity 1539 i sin fjärde reinkarnation detta år, men för första gången har jag gjort den enligt mönstret, med skört. Den var inte alls svår att sy och med ett så stretchigt tyg behövs inga tråckeltrådar för att hålla in ärmkullen och att sy en fåll i en halvcirkel med stretch är inte heller svårt, bara dra i tyget tills det ligger plant (jag hatar annars att fålla cirkel- och halvcirkelkjolar av den anledningen). Angående ärmlängden tänkte jag först 3/4-ärmar, men klippte ut dem långa för att kunna skjuta upp beslutet. Sen råkade jag klippa ett hål i ena ärmen, vilket gjorde att jag fick använda denna längd. Vad är denna längd? ¾? 7/8? Jag har ingen aning, men jag gillar längden de blev.

 

Till kjolen var planen en A-linjekjol, det är en siluett jag gillar att bära. Ibland är det bara så enkelt. Planen var en kjol från Burda Easy HV2015, men när jag fick tidningen såg jag att även om den hade paneler fram var det inprovningar och de skulle nog inte bli bra i det tjocka scuba-tyget. Istället blev det kjolen från Burdastyle’s Sewing Handbook. Den är designad för ett vävt tyg och själva kjoldelen blev bra, men linningen är jag inte helt nöjd med eftersom jag inte visste hur jag skulle sy den i ett stickat tyg som dessutom inte kan strykas. Den är lite skev, så jag måste bära något över som döljer detta. Jag älskar dock siluetten och längden på kjolen.

 

Även om jag sydde båda plaggen att matcha som ett set är jag inte helt säker på att siluetterna funkar helt bra. Skörtet skulle nog göra sig bättre med en pennkjol än en A-linjekjol. Jag tror att jag har tillräckligt med tyg för även en pennkjol, så det kanske dyker upp i framtiden. Detta är också anledningen till varför jag inte gjorde om linningen, jag sparar hellre tyget till ett nytt plagg än att rätta till linningen.

 

Min första plan är nu helt komplett, så jag har tid för lite oplanerad sömnad tills det är dags för vårplanen. Den ska presenteras sent i januari och vara klar i slutet av mars. Sy garderoben med en plan-gruppen på Facebook har höga krav, om du inte presenterar en plan och resultatet åker du ut. Hårda regler, men jag gillar dem då de hjälper mig att hålla fokus. Så nu är det dags att planera vad jag ska bära i vår.

 

 

Creation: The Dexy Sweatshirt

This might be my most far-fetched name of a creation yet, and then I’ve even named a dress The Oasis dress, due to the fact that it’s in corduroy, which is Manchester in Swedish, which just happens to be the home town of the band Oasis. But, I might have outdone myself this time and it also references music. Fashion and music do go hand in hand, maybe that’s the key to getting the best far-fetched names.

So the Dexy Sweatshirt it is! This sweatshirt is special in that way that my husband actually can get design credits for it. The grey sweatshirt with faux silver leather applique is an idea that has been floating around in my mind for quite a while. At first I had planned to make the applique “judo” in kanji, tying my two hobbies together, but then I looked up how the kanji looked and realized that there was no way I could make that look good. Lest not forget that the applique is faux leather and I couldn’t pin it in place with needles (I could have used glue, I realized later, after my applique was finished).

Dexy Sweatshirt (10)

Giving up on the judo idea, I figured maybe an exclamation mark would be an easy enough applique, it is just a rectangle and a dot or a square if you’re that way inclined. I told my husband and he suggested that he thought a question mark would be even better. I still haven’t figured out how that reflects his views of me, being better represented by a question mark then an exclamation mark. Then he proceeded to help me design said question mark on account of balancing it properly. I really don’t know what happened there.

The pattern I used is about to become the most used pattern of 2015. It’s Simplicity 1539 (OOP). I used it to make my scuba dress, my multi-coloured top and I am working on one more iteration beside this sweatshirt. The sweatshirt is quite fitted, perhaps a little too fitted, but I’d rather have it so than too loose. I would have sewn it on the over-locker, but my loopers were giving me a hard time so it’s sewn on my regular machine. In the end it was a better choice as I really like how sweatshirt fabrics behaves when pressing the seams, it looks so good!

The Midnight Run medal
The Midnight Run medal

Now, to get back to that far-fetched name of the Dexy Sweatshirt, I don’t know if I should feel proud for coming up with such a far-fetched title or revel in the fact that no one will get it and it’s just I that I think I’m clever and witty. But try and follow along, because here goes the longest story of a creation name: I was working with my husband on the question mark design. Once the mark itself was completed I needed a dot. I looked around my sewing room, on my desk I found a medal from when I ran a 10k last year (ran/walked/got around same-same). It was perfectly round and a great size for the dot so I used that as my template. The race I ran was the Midnight Run, and when I think of Midnight Runners, I think of Dexy. Simple as that. At least I stopped there and didn’t name the sweatshirt the Eileen Sweatshirt or something. I like to think that I know when to stop, which I don’t always do. I also contemplated on using some sort of 50 shades of Grey reference, due to the fact that this sweatshirt has 3 shades of grey, but since I’ve never read that book and have no intention of doing so, I stuck with my 80s music reference.

When I wore this sweater for the first time, Gustav was very interested in the design. He asked what it was on the front and I said it was a question mark. Or, he said, is the mystery mousketool from Mickey’s Clubhouse. We all have our different references.

Dexy Sweatshirt (9)

So, now I’m 4/6 on my winter SWAP. The two last pieces are in scuba knit, so I’m sure I’ll be able to finish them until the deadline of mid-December. With that, I’m off to ponder what my husband’s next contribution to my designs will be.

ETA: I forgot to add my inspiration in my original posting. Since the inspiration shirt is cute, not to mention that the blogger has a great name, I will guide you to Helena/Gray All Day and her cute Sew what?-shirt.

Pattern: Simplicity 1539
Fabric: Sweatshirt fabric, Interlock, faux leather all from Stoff och Stil

Dexy Sweatshirt (12)

 

Detta kan vara det mest långsökta namnet jag har givit ett plagg nånsin, och då ska en ha i åtanke att jag har en klänning som heter Oasis-klänningen för att den är sydd in Manchester (vilket blir ännu mer långsökt på engelska eftersom manchester heter corduroy). Men denna gång har jag överträffat mig själv och ännu en gång refereras musik. Mode och musik går visst hand i hand, det kanske är min nyckel till att hitta på de bästa långsökta namnen.

Det fick bli Dexy-tröjan! Denna tröja är speciell på så sätt att min man faktiskt kan få tillskriva sig lite av designen på den. Att göra en grå tröja med applikation i silvrigt fuskläder är en idé som jag har haft ett tag. Till att börja med hade jag tänkt att applikationen skulle vara kanji-tecknen för judo, för att föra mina två hobbyer samman, men efter att jag såg hur kanjin såg ut insåg jag att det fanns inte en chans att jag skulle kunna göra detta. Glöm inte att applikationen är i läder och jag kunde inte nåla fast den (i efterhand insåg jag att jag kunde ha använt lim, men då var jag redan klar).

När jag övergav judo-idén tänkte jag att ett utropstecken kunde vara en bra applikation, det är i princip bara en rektangel med en prick eller ruta beroende på vad som gillas. Jag berättade det för min man och han föreslog att ett frågetecken skulle kunna vara ännu bättre. Jag har fortfarande inte listat hur detta speglar hans syn på mig, att jag passar bättre som frågetecken än utropstecken. Sen fortsatte han med att hjälpa till med designen av frågetecknet, genom att hjälpa till att balansera det. Jag vet inte riktigt vad som hände där.

Mönstret som jag använde är på god väg att bli mitt mest använda monster 2015. Simplicity 1539, som jag använde till min scubaklänning, min mulitfärgade top och just nu jobbar jag på ännu en version av det, utöver denna tröja. Tröjan är rätt tight, kanske lite för mycket, men jag har den hellre så att för lös. Jag skulle ha sytt den på min overlocker, men mina looper-trådar bråkade med mig so den är sydd på min vanliga symaskin. I slutändan var det bättre eftersom sweatshirttyg blir så fint när sömmarna pressas.

För att återgå till mitt långsökta namn, Dexy-tröjan, så vet jag inte om jag är stolt över min förmåga att hitta på långsökta namn eller våndas av faktumet att ingen kommer att fatta det och att det bara är jag som tycker jag är smart och rolig. Men försök att hänga i denna, den längsta historien om ett plaggs namn: Som sagt, jag jobbade med mannen på designen av frågetecknet. När själva tecknet var färdigt behövdes bara pricken. Jag tittade runt i mitt syrum, i jakt på en bra mall. På skrivbordet låg min medalj från ett lopp jag sprang förra året (sprang/gick/tog mig igenom). Den var helt rund och i perfekt storlek, så den fick bli min mall. Loppet var Midnattsloppet och när jag tänker på Midnight Runners så tänker jag på Dexy. Så enkelt. Jag stannade i alla fall där och gav inte tröjan namnet Eileen-tröjan eller nåt. Jag vill tro att jag vet när jag ska sluta, men det är inte alltid så. Jag funderade också på att en 50 Shades of Grey referens hade kunnat användas eftersom tröjan har 3 nyanser av grått, men eftersom jag har inte läst boken, och har inga planer på att göra så, så höll jag fast vid min 80-tals musikreferens.

När jag bar tröjan första gången fick jag ännu ett tips på långsökt namn. Gustav undrade vad det var på tröjan och jag sade att det är ett frågetecken. Han menade att det kunde också vara det mystiska musskeredskapet från Musses klubbhus. Vi har alla våra olika referenser.

Med detta är 4 av 6 plagg i min vinterplan klara. De två sista plaggen är i scuba, så de kommer säkert att bli klara till deadline i mitten av december. Med det går jag för att fundera på vad min mans nästa bidrag till mina designer kommer att bli.

Redigerat: Jag glömde att berätta varifrån min inspiration kom. Eftersom inspirationströjan är söt och bloggaren har ett bra namn, vill jag guida er till Helena/Gray All Day och hennes “Sew What?”-tröja

Mönster: Simplicity 1539
Tyg: Sweatshirttyg, interlock och fuskläder, alla från Stoff och Stil.

 

 

 

Creations: Bordeaux Mini Skirt and Multi-Coloured Top

Inlägget finns på svenska längre ner

After my holiday in Italy it seemed like such a big hurdle to get sewing again. I had no ongoing project, I had loads and loads of plans but nothing enticed me, I had to take out the machine again. Plus the normal things of getting back in routine, planning dinners, catching up on laundry. In the midst of everything I had also planned a sewing meet-up, which was great for getting inspiration flowing again!

Therefore I can now present two garments from my Winter plan! A skirt in a burgundy red twill and a simple knit top in a variety of colour. Both pieces work both for the office, on a casual day, and at home. Perfect!

New outfit
New outfit

For the skirt I used the same pattern as for my denim mini skirt, 3A from Burda Easy FW2014. This skirt is so easy to wear and still have an interesting shape due to the shaped seam lines. I took my time with the waistband, under-stitching and ditch-stitching, plus I used the method from Colette’s Clover pant to conceal the zipper, it makes for a very neat finish! Or would have had I not sewn a little bit too close to the zipper so it won’t do up all the way. Plus, I accidentally put the zipper in the right side seam. No biggie, right, but it has happened that I put the skirt on back-to-front before remembering my mishap.

Zipper in the right side seam... oops!
Zipper in the right side seam… oops!

The top is in a viscose knit. It’s lighter than a usual viscose knit and not as drape-y, plus is has a wrinkled texture to it. I like all of these things, since the top is not clingy and it has some interest. I used Simplicity 1539 as a base (from my bow top and Scuba dress), it could have been a bit longer, but other than that it fits me fine, grading from a 10 in the shoulders, 12 over the chest and 10 again in the waist. Perfect! I finished the neckline, which I’ve lowered a bit, with a band and the hems are just simple fold-over hems.

I wanted to sew the whole top, or as much of it as possible, on the over-locker, but we’re not exactly friends at the moment. The looper threads keep breaking (it’s either one or the other. Sometimes both) so now I will set aside some time for studying threading in detail, since I think that’s where the problem lies.

Concealed zipper
Concealed zipper

Now, did you click the link to my winter plan in the beginning of the post? Did you realise that nowhere on that plan is there a mini skirt in twill but rather pants in said twill? I did make pants, I did work on fitting them better. However, they fit too well and are now way too tight. But that’s a subject for another post.

Nice curved seams
Nice curved seams

(Also I do apologise for the dark pictures. It’s a problem all of us in the Northern hemisphere share right now I suppose)

Pattern/Mönster: Skirt/Kjol: Burda Easy FW2014 3A Top/topp: Simplicity 1539 (which I Think is now OOP) – modified

Fabrics/Tyg:

Skirt/Kjol: Stretchtwill, Stoff och Stil (97% cotton, 3% elestan). Printed cotton sheeting for waistband facing.

Top/topp: Viscose jersey/viskosjersey

Notions/Sybehör: Skirt/kjol: Invisible zipper, fusible interfacing. Osynligt blixtlås, påpressbart mellanlägg.

 

Efter semestern i Italien var det ett stort hinder att komma över för att börja sy igen. Jag hade inget pågående projekt, jag hade massa planer men inget lockade, jag var tvungen att plocka fram och ställa i ordning maskinerna. Och alla normala saker av att komma tillbaks till rutinerna, planera mat, tvätta resegarderoberna. Mitt i allt hade jag dessutom planerat en sy-träff, vilket var perfekt för att få igång inspirationen igen

Därför kan jag nu presentera två plagg från min vinterplan! En kjol i bordeauxröd twill och en enkel trikåtröja i massor av färger! Båda plaggen fungerar både för kontoret, när jag vill vara lite ledig och här hemma. Perfekt!

Till kjolen använde jag samma monster som för min minikjol i denim, 3A från Burda Easy HV2014. Kjolen är så enkel att bära och har ändå en intressant form tack vare de kurviga sömmarna. Linningen är jag mycket nöjd med, då jag tog mig tid i både under-stitchingen och ditch-stitchningen (alltså att sy fast linningen mot sömsmånen och sen sy fast underkanten genom att sy en söm i den söm som sätter fast linning och kjol). För att få ett snyggt blixtlås använde jag metoden från Colettes Clover, vilket ger en väldigt snygg omslutning och avslutning av blixtlåset. Synd bara att jag sydde lite för nära blixtlåset så jag kan inte dra upp det hela vägen. Dessutom satte jag det i höger söm istället för vänster, ingen större fara men det händer att kjolen hamnar bakofram innan jag kommer på min miss.

Toppen är i viskosjersey. Den är lättare än vanlig viskosjersey, inte lika draperande och så har den en lite skrynklad textur. Jag gillar alla dessa saker eftersom toppen på så sätt inte klänger på mig så mycket och har något annorlunda med sig. Jag använde Simplicity 1539 som bas (från min rosett-topp och Scuba-klänning), den kunde ha varit lite längre men i övrigt sitter den bra, jag har storlek 10 vid axlar och midjan och 12 över bysten. Perfekt! Ringningen, som jag sänkt något, har jag avslutat med ett band och fållarna är bara vikta.

Jag ville sy så mycket av toppen som möjligt på over-locken, men vi är inte direkt vänner för tillfället. Looper-trådarna går sönder allt som oftast (antingen den ena eller andra. Ibland båda två), så nu kommer jag ta mig tid till att verkligen noggrant studera hur jag ska trä den, för jag tror det är där problemet ligger.

Fråga: tryckte du på länken till min plan I början av inlägget? Såg du att ingenstans på den planen finns det en minikjol i twill, snarare byxor i samma twill? Jag gjorde faktiskt byxor, jag jobbade med passning av dem. Emellertid blev det alldeles för tight passform och de blev oanvändbara. Men det är ett ämne för ett annat inlägg.

(Jag ber om ursäkt för de mörka bilderna. Ett problem för oss alla här uppe i norr, antar jag)

Creation: Grey Skies Dress

I kind of want to see myself as someone who doesn’t abide by trends. I can walk around a shop, finding nothing I’d want to wear and or even inspire me. Thus the fact that I never look like anyone else and the fact that a denim mini skirt makes me feel modern, an unusual feeling for me. However, I wouldn’t really stand out in a sewing crowd, as there seems to be a whole other set of trends to follow in the sewing world. And I find myself following them, albeit a bit late. Anna dress? Check and check! Belladone dress? Check and check! Scuba dress? Check!

Scuba dress (7)

I’m not a big fan of sewing with knits. I kept reading about scuba clothes and thinking that while it looks fun it’s probably not for me. Then one day, as I was looking through the remnant bin in the fabric store, I suddenly put a piece of scuba knit in my trolley. As I had discussed scuba with her on Twitter I heard Amy/Almond Rock’s voice in my head telling me to buy it. The thing is, in the remnant bin the prices are reduced like 40% so it’s a great place to shop for fabric for experiments and wearable muslins. They could have some imperfections, in this case my piece was a little bit miss-coloured in a small corner of the piece, no big deal. In that instant I hopped on a recent sewing trend; scuba fabric.

Scuba dress (23)

The fabric laid in my stash, I knew what I wanted to do, but didn’t know whether or not I should buy a pattern for it. I wanted a fitted bodice and flared skirt. In the end I used two patterns from my stash, Simplicity 1539 (from this disaster of a top) and Burda 10-2011-04 (used for a velour skirt) which I modified. In the end the skirt isn’t as flared as I envisioned it and I probably should have omitted the waist seam, but it’s likely I’ll end up belting the dress when I wear it anyway. And I will wear this dress! I did a cheater FBA on the top, grading between the sizes 10 (shoulders and waist (which I took in even more in the end)) and 12 (over bust). For the skirt I omitted the panels and reduced the waist to fit the top, with a little bit of extra ease in the top skirt part.

Scuba dress (8)

Scuba is very synthetic. It’s just polyester and some lycra thrown in for good measure. That means that basically, this dress is a mini sauna. Just wearing the dress for these pictures, it was 15 degrees and sunny out, was an endurance test. So I’ll have to pick the moments to wear this dress carefully or I’ll end up in a puddle of sweat. This is no dress for cozying up by the fireplace. Also I’m left pondering one question. Can I wear this to work?

Hmm, is this work appropriate?
Hmm, is this work appropriate?

The October theme at The Monthly Stitch is “The Final Frontier” – look to the sky for inspiration. This will be my contribution, inspired by a gloomy, overcast autumn day.

Scuba dress (9)

 

 

Pattern/Mönster: Simplicity 1539and Burda 10-2011-104
Fabric/Tyg: Embossed scuba knit, Stoff och Stil/Präglat scuba-tyg, Stoff och Stil. Interlock for neckband/Interlock till ringningen
Notions/Sybehör: Tråd

 

Jag vill se mig själv som någon som inte slaviskt följer trender. Jag kan gå runt i en affär utan att hitta någonting jag vill ha eller ens inspireras av. Därav faktumet att jag aldrig ser ut som någon annan och även att en minikjol i denim får mig att känna mig ovanlig modern. Å andra sidan skulle jag inte riktigt stå ut i samling hemmaskräddare, eftersom det finns en helt annan uppsättning trender att följa i den världen. Jag finner mig följa dem, om än oftast något sent. Anna-klänning? Check och check! Belladone-klänning? Check och check! Scuba-klänning? Check!

Jag är inte ett stort fan av att sy stickade tyger. Så när jag läste mycket om scuba-kläder tänkte jag att det ser kul ut, men det är antagligen inte för mig. Sen en dag, när jag tittade i stuvlådan på Stoff och stil, hamnade plötsligt en bit scubatyg i min vagn. Eftersom jag hade diskuterat scuba med henne på Twitter hörde jag Amy/Almond Rocks röst i mitt huvud där hon uppmuntrade mig att köpa det. I stuvlådan är priserna reducerade, upp till 40%, så jag tycker det är ett bra ställe att handla experimenttyg och provplaggstyg. Tygerna kan ha imperfektioner, i detta fall var en liten bit missfärgad, men det var i ett hörn och lätt att arbeta runt. Och i det ögonblicket hoppade jag på sytrend; scubatyg.

Tyget låg i mitt förråd, jag visste vad jag ville göra med det, men inte om jag ville köpa ett nytt mönster. Jag ville ha ett formpassat liv och en utställd kjol. I slutänden valde jag två mönster jag hade hemma, Simplicity 1539 (från denna katastrof-topp) och Burda 10-2011-04 (använt till en velourkjol), detta mönster ändrade jag. I efterhand är kjolen inte så utställd som jag tänkte mig och det hade nog varit bäst att sy klänningen i ett stycke utan midjesöm, men troligtvis kommer jag att bära ett skärp när jag bär denna klänning ändå. Och den kommer att bäras! Jag gjorde en fusk-FBA genom att klippa olika storlekar. 10 över axlarna och midjan (vilken togs in ännu mer) och 12 över bysten. Kjolen gjorde jag utan panelerna och tog in midjan för att passa toppen, med lite extra rörelsevidd i kjolen.

Scuba-tyg är syntetiskt. Det är bara polyester och så lite elestan för att få till en riktigt bra stretch. Det betyder att i stora drag är denna klänning en mini-bastu. Bara att bära klänningen för dessa bilder, 15 grader och sol ute, var ett uthållighetstest. Jag måste välja mina tillfällen att bära denna klänning med noggrannhet, annars kommer jag sluta i en svetthög. Detta är ingen klänning för at mysa framför brasan. Dessutom funderar jag fortfarande över en fråga. Kan jag ha denna på jobb?

Oktober-temat hos The Monthly Stitch är “The Final Frontier” – sök inspiration i himlen. Detta blir mitt bidrag, inspirerat av en mulen, ruggig höstdag.

Creation: Simplicity 4032 – Sweatshirt Blazer

I really feel I am coming into my own in my sewing. This project was a gamble and I felt it could either way, success or complete disaster. It makes me very happy to report that it’s a success.   The story of this blazer began in the summer. The husband and I had ditched the kids at the in-laws for some shopping in their town. Mainly grocery shopping, but we also took a walk in the city. There’s a lovely boutique which I like to visit for inspiration and an occasional purchase. I tried on a blazer in sweatshirt fabric, which I quite fancied but the husband weren’t impressed with the raw edges of the collar lapels. It was quite pricey and it didn’t feel 100% so I left it behind, but I did like the idea of a sweatshirt blazer. I haven’t been much of a blazer person in my days and a sweatshirt blazer seemed like a nice way to ease myself into it. Sweatshirt Blazer (8)   I searched the web for a suitable pattern and in the end settled for Simplicity 4032. It’s made for fleece fabrics, but several other fabrics can work, including sweatshirt fabrics. The bodice is princess seamed and there’s a variety of collars and flounces to make a jacket or vest. A lot of options in fact and I can see myself making up a few of the other versions. This time I made view D as it was the most close to the blazer style I envisioned. Sweatshirt Blazer (11) According to the measurements I was to cut a size 16. Looking at the finished garment measurements this jacket had an ease of 15 cm (6”). That’s a whole lot of ease! So I cut according to finished measurements, in my case I cut a size 12 with no size alterations. It’s still a bit too shapeless in the back, but it looks good. I don’t even want to imagine a size 16 on me, I wonder if I even could get it right after it’s been cut. The sleeves are a bit too long and the elbow dart hits too low on me. Ah, those short arms of mine! If I make this again I will shorten the sleeve a bit, perhaps also take it in and make it sleeker. Sweatshirt Blazer (7) The instructions tells you to just layer the two pieces for the collar/flounce and leave them raw. As the rawness was what I didn’t really liked from the beginning so I stitched the two pieces together and folded to get a more finished look. Along the way the iron was my best friend, the sweatshirt fabric really benefited from a good press in achieving a professional look. Sweatshirt Blazer (14) Verdict? I love this jacket! Lounge wear for work at its best. There are a few things I could’ve have done better, but all in all I’m pretty pleased with my first blazer. It may sound a bit stupid, but I am glad I went with my instinct and cut a smaller size than recommended as it ended up great in size, not too much ease. I makes me feel more confident in my abilities and is a testament that I have learnt a lot this year in fitting. Two thumbs up! Paired with my Helena in corduroy (unblogged at the moment), the blazer was in my fall plan and the skirt was added later. I’ve brought the look together by matching the buttons since my fall plan is dominated by grey and aubergine. I’m getting the hang of this styling thing! Fabric: Grey sweatshirt fabric (isoli) Stoff och Stil Pattern: Simplicity 4032, view D Notions: Buttons, interfacing Techniques used: Buttons and buttonholes, collar and flounce, concave/convex seaming, princess seams. How do you draw inspiration from RTW? What is your secret for getting away with lounge wear at work?

Creation: The Bow Top

As I mentioned previously I’m in a rut of low fabric confidence. I feel that I am getting the hang of wovens, but the knits continue to throw me off my game. I don’t know what different types of knit are, throw words like ITY, interlock and ponte at me and my expression will be that of a question mark. I also haven’t mastered finishing knits and combined with not using the right fabric, well, disaster strikes.

Frumpy Front
Frumpy Front

  I bought the Simplicity 1539 as I love the bow top and think it’s a great twist on a basic knit top. In the remnant bin at the fabric store I found a piece of purple (favourite colour!) interlock, the right amount, and I set out to work on what I thought was a match made in heaven. I made sure to take my time cutting and lining up the pieces. However, in retrospect, some mistakes were made on my part  

Wouldn't be so big in front and back with an FBA.
Wouldn’t be so big in front and back with an FBA.

Mistake 1 – No FBA. Even though I sewed this in February, in the midst of my FBA awakening I lazily thought “well, it’s a knit, it stretches to fit me, right?” WRONG! Well, not completely wrong since it does fit over my chest, but it made the whole top bigger, the sleeves feel particularly big and pyjama-like. With an FBA I would have chosen a smaller size, that would have fitted better everywhere else and been adjusted for the bust. Lesson learnt: Knits may be forgiving in fitting issues, but they can’t work miracles, especially not when too big. I must go down in size and adjust the bust properly.  

Wobbly hem
Wobbly hem

Mistake 2 – Stretching the fabric The overlap for the bow is, obviously, supposed to be hemmed. I did this on my regular machine. It could be that the settings were off or that I stretched the fabric while hemming and the hem turned all wobbly on me. It couldn’t be salvaged at all, but I still went ahead and put it in. It. Does. Not. Look. Good. I didn’t have enough fabric to cut a new piece, but at the very least I could have unpicked that hem or even cut it off to make a new one. But with the rest of the fit issues, it didn’t seem worthwhile. Lessons learnt: I should learn my settings. And not pull the fabric.  

Not flattering. At all. Like the colour though.
Not flattering. At all. Like the colour though.

I finished this top in February and have since worn it… once. For the photo shoot. It sits badly and the whole thing feels very pyjama. Even though interlock is a recommended fabric for this top, I can’t help but feel that it might be a little on the heavy side for this top. Or for any type of clothing require sleekness and shape (considering the fact that I know nothing, nothing, about knits I may very well be wrong. It’s just that this fabric doesn’t feel like something I would wear in a more formal (i.e. my casual office) setting). Bottom line: I need to learn more about knits, how they behave and fabric type to pattern matching. I’m not too keen on my matching interlock to this pattern.   I like the pattern. I have seen lovely versions of it. I am not ready to give up after one failed attempt. (I am not quite sure if I will give interlock a second try though). I like the colour of the fabric. I just need to get to know knits.   Do you acknowledge your sewing fails or are they destined to a dark place never to be spoken of again? I find that sewing blogs always are positive in makes, the bad ones are not blogged, but isn’t it true that we can learn from our mistakes? (BTW, I know that the photography and styling totally sucks, but frankly my dears, I don’t give a damn as I’m not that into this top)

Sewing Plan Fall/Winter 2014

I have a plan, a seam to sew… (to be sung to the melody of ABBA’s I Have A Dream)

 

Yes, for the first time in my sewing career I have an actual sewing plan. This is huge, as I’ve before aimlessly have wondered through the fabric store isles, picking up whatever appeals to me without much thought if the fabric actually goes with anything in my wardrobe (resulting in my low fabric confidence). With the help of my stash, the new fabric catalogue and interesting patterns I present to you, my sewing plan for FW 2014! (Cheers are in order)

Bomullspoplin, stone - Copy

First up (which is pretty much completed as I type this) is another Alma blouse (number 1, number 2). Why change a winning, well-fitting concept? This time I made view C, with the long sleeves and rounded neckline. It has been made in a greyish poplin, which will make it a perfect base to match with prints.

Aubergine, partysatin - Copy

Next up; a skirt which I will make to match the Alma. The fabric comes from a lovely bolt of purple poly satin, it’s quite stiff, dubbed “Party Satin” in the store. I will make the Michelle skirt from Burdastyle, yes another pattern used for the third time (number 1, number 2). I will buy some matching fabric in grey to make the contrast bits and I hope that will make a cool outfit paired with the Alma blouse. Plus, making a skirt in shiny polyester I hope it will be, you know, actually wearable.

Svart Denim - Copy

Another skirt, I do have a need for them this fall. And another skirt, another re-make. This one will be a black denim skirt inspired by the lovely and inspirational Zooey Deschanel (the skirt looks very much like Colette’s Ginger, but I am not paying that price for an A-line skirt. Just sayin’). The Daily Mail has dubbed this a pencil skirt. Is my fashion terminology way off? To me that is not a pencil skirt. In that spirit, that it’s not a pencil skirt, I will use Burda 10-2011-119, modified of course, I used this pattern for my Lessons Learnt Skirt. I will remove the pockets and copy Zooey’s (I hope this works out, it could be disastrous otherwise). I’ll leave the waistband as is, I daren’t try to redraft it.

Jade satin - Copy

Hopefully, the fall and winter will have some parties to it. Cause if this dress meets my vision, it will be my go to party dress for the season. It’s Gather’s Mortmain dress, which I won over at The Monthly Stitch, in a teal satin. It has a bit of stretch to it (cotton/lycra blend) and I think if I get it right it will be both comfortable and gorgeous. Yes, I have high hopes. I have made my first muslin and it needs some more work. I’m hoping to finish this for Frocktober. I have bought a black silver metallic zipper for the back and am now pondering if I should buy some silver metallic thread to do matching decorative topstitching. Decisions, decisions…

The projects above are those for which I have fabrics and patterns. For the next three projects in my plan I have ordered patterns, but I have no fabrics. Therefor they are subject to change as I haven’t felt the fabrics yet, I always want to feel and touch before committing.

First up: another blouse. I have realised that I am more drawn to blouses than jersey tops so I will make those. I have ordered New Look 6945 and for my version I will do view C, the long-sleeved version. I really like this floral cotton so I hope it feels as lovely, cause I’m sure it will make a perfect fall blouse!

And yes, skirt number three. It may be a bit juvenile, but I really like this purple twill. The pattern will be decided based on weight but if it works I am leaning towards the Olga skirt by Jenny Hellström.

Finally I will venture in to new territory, blazers. I have never ever sewn a blazer or hardly ever wore one, so I thought I’d ease myself into the concept and world of blazers. I’ve ordered Simplicity 4032 and although it says it’s for fleeces I plan to do it in a sweatshirt fabric. I haven’t decided on which fabric I’ll use since I really do want to feel them, avoid getting a too bulky blazer. Plus many of the fashion sweatshirts have polyester, which makes me want to feel them even more. I am suspect of polyester. My plan is to make view D, which is oddly placed first. If it’s a success I can see myself making some of the other views as well, but probably never in fleece.

There you have it; my FW sewing plan for 2014. I will stick to this list, using The Monthly stitch challenges to guide me. The only interruptions I’ll accept are sewing for the kids. Seven pieces in total which I think I can mix and match. Getting ready for a well-dressed autumn and winter.

Do you set a plan for your sewing or is it freestyle all the way? Are you drawn to the same looks/colours as me or is my plan totally out of your style? How would your plan look?

Prizes

I won a giveaway at Johanna’s “Projects By Me”-blog. The prizes arrived in my mailbox a few days ago.

Burda-pattern (2862)

Burda 2862    Two skirt patterns, one long and one shorter with a split zipper in the front. I like the style of the skirt, although I might make the short skirt longer and omit the split zipper. I would love to make this in a metallic or faux leather (if I dare), just like the cover.

Burda Young fashion pattern (7815)

Burda 7815A sundress which would be perfect for hanging in the garden or as a beach cover-up. I would try to alter the pattern a bit so it doesn’t show off the bra straps. Plus, this design isn’t exactly nursing friendly so I have some time to figure out what to do with it.

 Vogue pattern (9289)Vogue 9289

An incomplete dress pattern, just the collar. I don’t think I could draft the entire pattern from scratch, but perhaps I can attach the collar to something else.

 Simplicity pattern (6610)Simplicity 6610 The pattern is for the dress and blouse, both of which have nice silhouettes. They are however too small for me, so I need to upsize it before sewing it a challenge in itself, the other challenge being that I have never used a vintage pattern.

 Sewing stuffTyg

An assortment of various notions and fabrics. The fabric is a stretch denim, about 1 metre. I actually have some of this fabric since before, intended to be a suit. I was torn of whether to do pants or a skirt with my selected jacket, now I don’t have to decide. There’s also some ribbon, I’m very coward about adding trims to garments, so maybe this will give me a push in the right direction. Also included were some lovely glass-headed pins.

Thank you so much for all the stuff, Johanna, I hope I can make them justice!