Tag Archives: Denim Chardon

Looking Back, Over My Shoulder

While I tried to get back into blogging, not all of my creations for 2022 made it on here. Sometimes it feels like I’m standing shouting in an empty room “look at this dress!” “these trousers are awesome” or “OK, so I screwed up on this one!” and nobody is out there listening. I miss the days when you got comments on your blog posts and reflections, now it’s all about the likes which is less personal, both on blogs and Instagram. And I’m bad at that myself, falling into the downward spiral (plus it doesn’t help that my blog reader of choice, Bloglovin’ is down a lot of the time. Is there another one?). I haven’t decided if I will keep this blog up and running, but that’s an issue for the future. For now let’s summarise 2022.

I sewed a total of 24 garments in total; a mix of outerwear, tops, shirts, blouses, dresses, men’s wear, children wear. Basically most stuff except for underwear and exercise clothes. I had a pretty good stride in the spring, then in the fall we did some major renovations on the house which sucked up a lot of energy and time, so sewing was put on the back burner.

As can be seen, I sewed a great variety of garments, but for pattern companies, Deer and Doe as well as Burda were dominating my sewing. I tried one new to me pattern company which was Danish company How To Do Fashion. Since I have quite a large collection of patterns, I try to use and adapt those, rather than buying new patterns, and when I do buy patterns it’s usually through Marketplace on FB.

As I was trying to figure out my top and bottom 5, I had trouble both narrowing down my top 5, as well as reaching 5 for my bottom list; a sign that I’ve figured out what I like to sew and wear. I mean, especially my Striped Stella, the thing that is bad with it is really minor.

Let’s start with the not so good, in no particular order.

The Covid Briar

I’m still not friends with viscose jersey, and this top also suffers from being too short in the waste. I wear it around the house, but what I actually need are some knit tops for work, this was not one. The question is if I will ever become friends with viscose jersey.

The Cheerleader Jacket

I like the style of the jacket, but I don’t like to wear it, the trouble is mainly the sleeves. They are designed to be 7/8 sleeves, but that is an awkward length and I thought they’d be full length on my short arms. They aren’t and are now neither full length or 7/8. Also, I was very lazy and machine-stitched the rib cuff closed, which created a very uncomfortable seam on the inside of the cuff. Let this be a lesson to me, not to cheat in these manners.

Green Aubetura

The search for a woven t-shirt ended, at least for now, on a D&D Aubépine/Datura mashup. I made which I liked, unfortunately the hem started to pill, this is my second version. I think the fabric I chose here, while soft, doesn’t have enough drape. It just doesn’t sit nice.

Striped Stella

This top is fine, but I made the neckline binding too loose, so it sits quite unflatteringly. It is an easy fix, if I just remembered to save the left-overs, but I worry about cutting the neckline down further. If I have the fabric left, I recon I should try.

Keyhole top

Another attempt at making a knit top with interesting design lines. This one from Burda XX/2014. It sits weird (lazy me, not properly FBA’ing) and the keyhole gives too much cleavage if I pull it down. The neckties feel too tight around my neck, I don’t like too restricting clothes. It hasn’t been worn yet, and maybe it does in order to truly be tested.

Let’s move on to the good stuff!

Acajou Trousers

These trousers were completed in August, and since then they have been worn 35 times. They are so comfortable and practical with the big pockets and are in constant rotation in my closet. These were made in a polyester stretch twill, and I’m planning to upgrade to a denim pair.

Sunshine Shirtdress

I bought this fabric after noticing a lack of colour in my summer wardrobe. This dress really conjures a sunshine feeling, and I do love wearing (and sewing!) shirtdresses.

Embroidered Chardon

It should come as a surprise to no one that I totally love Deer & Doe’s patterns. In this case I really did the perfect matching of fabric to pattern and I love the end result. The perfect everyday skirt for warmer weather!

Purple/Yellow Aubépine

Case in point, three of my top five creations are made with Deer & Doe patterns. The cut on this dress is so smart, and paired with the cute fabric, it’s a quick outfit. What’s not to like?

Vienna Dress

There’s so many lovely memories associated with this dress, that it doesn’t matter that there is some wonkiness. The evening spent at a ball in Vienna was amazing and I’ll remember it forever. I felt really pretty and unique in this dress, which was everything I was going for. Plus, the dress even got to take a swirl on the dance floor in a proper Viennese Waltz.

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Me-Made-May 2022; Day 13-24

May is moving on and here are my next 12 outfits. For the first half of the month, click here.

Days 13-16

Day 13: Today at work, I just wanted to be comfortable. A t-shirt dress to the resuce!
Wearing: Venus Dress and RTW Cardigan.

Day 14: We had friends over for dinner today and out of context my exclaim that “I hate this time of year” seems off. But in context, it was that we discussed how hard it was to get dressed for these in-between temperatures, especially if you’re leaving the house. You want to go bare-legged, and during the day you can, but in the evening you need to cover your legs and that’s boring. Still, I was at home, so I had more freedom.
Wearing: Purple Aubépine

Day 15: Cleaning up from yesterday’s gathering, biking and sewing a toile for a very exciting project were the items on today’s agenda. The very exciting project? My husband and I are going to attend a ball (!) in Vienna (!!) in August, so today I sewed the first torn bedsheet version of How To Do Fashion’s Marrakesh pattern. I love the neckline and style of the dress and I hope it will look good in the purple taffeta I’ve bought. First toile looks very promising, but I need to ponder it for a while.
Wearing: Covid Briar and unseen shorts (cause they don’t deserve to be seen. Very comfy though).

Day 16: Back to the office after a nice weekend. I stopped by the library to pick up a book I’d booked (Egalia’s Daughters) and took todays photo in the library.
Wearing: Coral Trousers, Striped Wrap top and RTW jacket.

Days 17-20

Day 17: One of my favourite fabric and pattern pairings in a while, and premiere wearing of my recent denim Chardon. This skirt is so lovely!
Wearing: Denim Chardon, Simone T-shirt and RTW jacket.

Day 18: Right before snapping this picture I managed to cut my finger on my key, don’t ask me how, so the pose is a bit awkward. The 1.5 cm cut on my right index finger had just begun to bleed, but I didn’t feel like going inside to take care of it and then going back out for the photo.
Wearing: Green Aubetura and Rhombus trousers

Day 19: Fun day! After work I met my sister and dad for “dinner and a show”. The dinner was delicious tapas and the show was the music of Benny Andersson. Mostly known for being one B of ABBA, his musical deed is so much bigger, covering everything from pop, to musicals, to Swedish folk music. I love listening to live music, and hearing a symphony orchestra, well there’s something special about it. I scoured the internet and found the music sheet for Födelsedagsvals till Mona (birthday valse to Mona (Benny’s wife)), and I hope to learn them over the weekend. It’s such a beautiful piece!
Wearing: Sunshine shirt dress and white zip cardigan. The tights came off later in the day, making this my first bare-legged day out and about.

Day 20: Apparently, I dressed in discarded French military uniform today; blue, white and red. The story, which I was told, was that the French didn’t believe in camouflage, that they would intimidate the enemy just on presence alone, and then they had to make their presence known by dressing in bright colours. I did as well, but not as a not the French military. However, the fit of these trousers is really bothering me, excess fabric in the crotch and too tight over the calves. I was ready to rip them apart, salvaging the zippers and button, but then I was distracted by my recently printed music sheet.
Wearing: Coral Trousers, Denim Datura, White Zip cardigan.

Days 21-24

Day 21: My husband and daughter were away all weekend, my son and I were home together. To both our tastes we did our own things and met for mealtimes. We both enjoyed the day.
Wearing: Pinda Trousers, Eloise Hoodie and T-shirt with bows.

Day 22: The intention was to spend this day in the same manner as yesterday, but since it was my sister’s birthday she invited us to a café for some cake. Can’t say no to that! I got compliments on the dress, specifically the tucks along the bodice and sleeves. I had been worried that they’d get lost in the busy print, but as it turned out; they didn’t.
Wearing: Purple Aubépine and RTW denim jacket

Day 23: Despite better judgment, I wore the coral trousers again and they were still ill-fitting and too tight (I mean, there is a reason why the linked post for them is “Sewing fails 2019”). So I ended the day by ripping out all those zippers and the buttons to go on a new project. At the same time I also noticed that the turquoise chinos I wore earlier in the month were pretty badly torn (cheap fabric) and now I’ve ended up with no trousers in a fun colour. I need to change that!
Wearing: Coral Trousers, Scissors Shirt, RTW jacket.

Day 24: I’m abroad (Outside Royal Arena in Copenhagen)! In November 2019 my sister and I bought tickets to see Trevor Noah and today was the day it was finally happening. Even sitting in the arena waiting for Trevor himself to show it was a surreal feeling. My sister, having admired the tucks two days earlier, said she liked the skirt, but was relieved to find out that I hadn’t made all the embroidery, the fabric was bought as such.

Wearing: Denim Chardon, Striped Stella, RTW/Thrifted Jacket

Stay tuned for the final days and my lessons learnt.

Sewn: A Deer and Doe Denim Duo

As you may have noticed, I prefer taking my pictures outdoors, in natural light. As I live fairly up north, during winter we don’t have a lot of sunlight, which is an issue for my half-assed self-timer phone photos. And, now, even though it’s April, we’re past equinox so daylight is no longer an issue, the weather continues to throw me for loops.

April weather in Sweden is notorious for its constantly changing weather, logically dubbed “April weather”. In the grand scheme this means that one day can feel like summer, the next can have hail and frost. This, according to Wikipedia has to do with the fact that the sun warms the ground, but high up in the atmosphere, where the clouds are formed, it still cold. Last week we had the ultimate April weather day; in one day we had rain, snow, sunshine, hail and thunder. Late March usually gives us a glimpse of hope for warmer weather, but April sure knows how to knock us straight to the ground.

While the weather is keeping me on my toes with regards to warmer weather, my sewing is already there. Summer clothes are on my agenda! Last year I bought a remnant piece of this lovely embroidered chambray, and immediately pictured it as a Deer and Doe Chardon, perfect for summer. I jokingly suggested to my husband to go full 70s with bell bottoms and the border print there, or just a maxi, he didn’t seem to realise that those things are not my personal style at all. However, the Chardon fits in with my preferred silhouette. The border embroidery was on the cross-grain, and with what was left over, I was able to cut a Deer and Doe Datura. The Datura is a basic woven tank, with the yoke and a dart to give it shape. For this version I omitted the collar and I cut the back on the center fold. I used a scrap for my stash as lining for the inner yokes.

The Chardon is pretty easy to fit, since it only needs to fit in the waist and there are several places to play with some width; in all the pleats as well as the side seams. For the Datura, I cut a straight 42, and added 2 cm each to the yoke and the bodice piece. I like these pieces and I do like the faux dress look they create. Now I just need the April weather to make way for some actual spring.

Fabric: Embroidered chambray from tyg.se

Patterns: Deer and Doe Chardon (skirt) and Datura (top)