Tag Archives: FW2014

Creation: McCall’s 5974 The Paint Splatter Dress

For weekends when we are expected to see people I have one dress that I grab. My Rule Britannia Dress. I made it a year ago and it has been on high spring/fall/winter rotation. For summer I choose my identical Aqua Painted dress instead. Sadly fall, winter and spring make up most of the year around these parts of the world so the Britain dress is seen very often. So often that I figured I’d need to make another dress so that people wouldn’t get sick of it.

Front view. There is a midriff band in there
Front view. There is a midriff band in there

Yet again I pulled out McCall’s “Perfect knit dress” (5974, OOP) and made myself a new dress. This time I made it with long sleeves, otherwise it’s pretty identical to my other dresses. What I like about this pattern is that is it a comfortable knit dress, but it still has some shaping and structure due to the pleats. I like structure in my garments. Stupidly I hadn’t marked the size on my traced pattern pieces at all so before tracing my new sleeve I had to match my old pieces to figure out which size I had. And here I thought I was always very thorough with noting my sizes and alterations.

Side view. I like the sleekness the band creates
Side view. I like the sleekness the band creates

The instructions for this pattern are very detailed. A bit too detailed. They have you sew ease stitches to set the sleeve in (it’s a knit, just stretch the shorter piece to match the longer), double-stitch every seam and add a zipper in the CB seam. I skipped those steps. They also want you to do a narrow hem for the neckline, which I did for the Rule Britannia Dress, which stretches the neckline. For this version (as well as the Aqua version) I did a neckband instead, which much better results. I also added cuffs to the sleeves to bring them in.

Added neckband for the neckline. I'm getting better and better at this technique.
Added neckband for the neckline. I’m getting better and better at this technique.

The fabric is a jersey/elestane blend from Stoff och stil. I had been eyeing it for quite a while, hoping it would go on winter sale. It didn’t, but I couldn’t resist it anyway. It’s dark grey with paint splatter on it, I really like it. I don’t know if the elestane content of this dress was higher (8%) than in my previous dresses, because when I sewed this up I ended up with a lot of excess fabric in my lower back, something I hadn’t seen earlier. The fit from the front was fine and the back was a mess (this is where I would add in progress pictures, but the batteries in the camera were dead). I took in the side seams an additional centimeter and shaped the back in the CB seam. It caused a little bulk in the seam, but the fit is way better.

Cuffs to keep the sleeves up.
Cuffs to keep the sleeves up.

So congrats family and friends! A new dress for you to see.

Do you have TNT patterns (aka clothing your family and friends see constantly)? Have you ever had a TNT pattern behave in a mysterious way?

Första kreationen för 2015 blir en favoritklänning. Två gånger tidigare har jag använt mönstret (Här och här), denna gånga gjorde jag istället med långa ärmar och mudd i ärmslut. Jag gillar kläder med struktur och även om klänningen är en jerseyklänning har den ändå struktur i och med midjebandet och vecken. Tyget kommer från Stoff och Stil och betedde sig inte riktigt som de två tidigare tygerna, men med lite ändring i sömmarna blev det en bra passform till slut.

Klänningen med brittiska flaggan är en av de klänningarna jag använder mest på fritiden under vår, vinter och höst, så de runt omkring mig blir nog glada av att få lite variation på vad de ser mig i.


Creation: Burdastyle Sewing Handbook Skirt: Rock Glam Skirt

Since a couple of years our office Christmas parties are themed. Last year’s party, which I didn’t attend, was the 80s and according to the gossip it was pretty great. Most people went all in with their outfits and a great time was had by all. This means that the anticipations of this year’s party were high with many speculations in themes and outfits.

Could use some pressing, but faux leather can't be pressed
Could use some pressing, but faux leather can’t be pressed

After a long wait, and rumors starting to spread, the invite came with the theme and confirmed the rumors; this year’s theme was Glitz and Glam. We were all left feeling quite uninspired, as the theme didn’t invite to playing dress-up, rather to “just” dress up. I am not a glitz and glam girl in any sense of the word. On Twitter I was suggested with Mad Men-glam or The Great Gatsby-glam. While I must admit that the Great Gatsby-look is great, I’m not sure I would like to spend time and money on something I wouldn’t get any use out of more than once. This was also the reason as to why I didn’t want to make a sequined garment, I would have no use for it and the sequined fabric looks cheap. I did find a more luxurious sequined fabric but that was WAY too expensive. Not gonna happen. (I was inspired by Lauren’s great dress, which ultimately would have been too fancy, though)

Side view. I think the length is perfect
Side view. I think the length is perfect

My sister gifted me a sequined look she had made for a Glitz and Glam party of her own, but again, sequins did not allure me. It would be my plan B, but I knew I wanted something different. In the end I settled for a silver faux leather fabric in order to make a skirt. I had sewn once in leather (faux as well) before, but that project wasn’t anything special. For a skirt I didn’t want to risk anything, ending up with holes because of ripped seams. Unnaturally of me, I was also precautious and realised that darts wouldn’t work well with this fabric, so I decided to make the Skirt from The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook. I still amaze myself with the insight of the darts.

Back view. The zipper is a little wonky, but I doubt anyone will mention (or they'll admit to staring at my ass)
Back view. The zipper is a little wonky, but I doubt anyone will mention (or they’ll admit to staring at my ass)

The skirt, in theory, is quite simple to sew. In practice it was a lot harder. The skirt is made up of 7 panels, four in the back and three in the front, which shape the skirt, thus the “no darts” thing. However, let me tell you that all those panels have minimal differences and are bound to getting mixed up. I think in the end I cut three extra panels just because I couldn’t keep them straight (if I could have pinned the fabric I would’ve pinned a note on each piece). And then I sewed the waistband in upside down, pinning it as a facing. Looked horrible. I substituted the faux leather for black denim in the waistband.

Panelled skirt and denim waistband
Panelled skirt and denim waistband

In the end I had a great night in my new skirt, drinking plenty of wine, dancing the night away (which resulted in a blister on my foot, which stayed there for a month). In short: it was fun! ——————————————————————————————- Innan jul sydde jag en kjol till årets julfest med tema “Glitter och Glamour”. Då jag varken är en glitter- eller glamourtjej valde jag att sy en kjol i silvrigt fuskläder i stället. Mönstret var kjolen ur Burdastyles Sewing Handbook, det var lite klurigt att hålla reda på alla paneler och jag sydde dessutom i linningen upp och ner. I slutänden blev det en läderkjol med denimlinning som jag dansade hela natten i.    

Creation: Burdastyle Helena Skirt in Corduroy

Sometimes you just have too much going on to really focus on sewing. The last two weeks of October were like that for. There were just too much happening so at the end of the day I didn’t have any energy to sit by my sewing machine. Sad, but that’s life. Therefore it was the perfect timing to have a sewing meet-up planned to get me back into sewing mood. During that day I finished one dress and I cut another project: this skirt.

Helena in Corduroy (6)

To really help me get back in the saddle I deviated from my fall plan and decided to make a simple project, and while it’s a deviation I still chose to make something that would fit into the plan. However, this skirt might not be an addition to the plan, but rather a substitute. The Third Michelle has never been worn and I can’t get over just how home-made it looks with that poor fabric choice. What is polyester duchess satin really meant for, can it ever look good?

Helena in Corduroy (3)

Onto my new skirt. For a while I have been attracted to Megan Nielsen’s Kelly skirt, but there were many negative reviews regarding the pattern and it didn’t motivate me to buy the pattern. Instead, I turned to my pattern stash and used a pattern I had used before. The Helena skirt from Burdastyle has a similar, but not identical, look to the Kelly skirt, with pleats and the button placket. In my first attempt this time I did box pleats, as in the Kelly skirt, but that did not look good , so I did the original pleats instead. I do miss the pockets, but I decided to skip them as I wanted a quick project. I’ll beat myself up later and if I make this skirt again (which is totally plausible) I will try and draft some slash pocket (with draft I mean steal from another pattern). Perhaps I’ll make a wider waistband as well.

Helena in Corduroy (2)

That pattern is really easy and straight-forward to work with, having pictures included in the instructions makes this an easy pattern to put together. It was even more easy in my first version, My Namesake Skirt, where I put the front piece on fold instead. There is one drafting error in the waistband. The waistband is supposed to be seamless, one piece to go all the way around, but it’s too short. Also, the button placket is very narrow and might not work with buttons that are too large, I used 18 mm buttons and they just fit on the placket.

Helena in Corduroy (25)

This skirt is very wearable and the colour blends in nicely with my wardrobe. I really feel like I’m coming into my own, making clothes that are wearable and still me. I’m happy!

Fabric: Aubergine Baby corduroy from Stoff och Stil
Pattern: Burdastyle Helena Skirt (if there’s a pattern out there with a better name, I haven’t found it)
Notions: Buttons, interfacing
Techniques used: Button placket, buttons and buttonholes, stitch in the ditch, pleating.

Do you ever make the same pattern more than once? Is it OK to draw inspiration from one source and use another pattern to make it up? How do you get yourself back in the sewing saddle after a dry streak?

Creation: Simplicity 4032 – Sweatshirt Blazer

I really feel I am coming into my own in my sewing. This project was a gamble and I felt it could either way, success or complete disaster. It makes me very happy to report that it’s a success.   The story of this blazer began in the summer. The husband and I had ditched the kids at the in-laws for some shopping in their town. Mainly grocery shopping, but we also took a walk in the city. There’s a lovely boutique which I like to visit for inspiration and an occasional purchase. I tried on a blazer in sweatshirt fabric, which I quite fancied but the husband weren’t impressed with the raw edges of the collar lapels. It was quite pricey and it didn’t feel 100% so I left it behind, but I did like the idea of a sweatshirt blazer. I haven’t been much of a blazer person in my days and a sweatshirt blazer seemed like a nice way to ease myself into it. Sweatshirt Blazer (8)   I searched the web for a suitable pattern and in the end settled for Simplicity 4032. It’s made for fleece fabrics, but several other fabrics can work, including sweatshirt fabrics. The bodice is princess seamed and there’s a variety of collars and flounces to make a jacket or vest. A lot of options in fact and I can see myself making up a few of the other versions. This time I made view D as it was the most close to the blazer style I envisioned. Sweatshirt Blazer (11) According to the measurements I was to cut a size 16. Looking at the finished garment measurements this jacket had an ease of 15 cm (6”). That’s a whole lot of ease! So I cut according to finished measurements, in my case I cut a size 12 with no size alterations. It’s still a bit too shapeless in the back, but it looks good. I don’t even want to imagine a size 16 on me, I wonder if I even could get it right after it’s been cut. The sleeves are a bit too long and the elbow dart hits too low on me. Ah, those short arms of mine! If I make this again I will shorten the sleeve a bit, perhaps also take it in and make it sleeker. Sweatshirt Blazer (7) The instructions tells you to just layer the two pieces for the collar/flounce and leave them raw. As the rawness was what I didn’t really liked from the beginning so I stitched the two pieces together and folded to get a more finished look. Along the way the iron was my best friend, the sweatshirt fabric really benefited from a good press in achieving a professional look. Sweatshirt Blazer (14) Verdict? I love this jacket! Lounge wear for work at its best. There are a few things I could’ve have done better, but all in all I’m pretty pleased with my first blazer. It may sound a bit stupid, but I am glad I went with my instinct and cut a smaller size than recommended as it ended up great in size, not too much ease. I makes me feel more confident in my abilities and is a testament that I have learnt a lot this year in fitting. Two thumbs up! Paired with my Helena in corduroy (unblogged at the moment), the blazer was in my fall plan and the skirt was added later. I’ve brought the look together by matching the buttons since my fall plan is dominated by grey and aubergine. I’m getting the hang of this styling thing! Fabric: Grey sweatshirt fabric (isoli) Stoff och Stil Pattern: Simplicity 4032, view D Notions: Buttons, interfacing Techniques used: Buttons and buttonholes, collar and flounce, concave/convex seaming, princess seams. How do you draw inspiration from RTW? What is your secret for getting away with lounge wear at work?

Creation: Adult Toddler Dress


A few weeks ago I found a really cute and cosy dress for Erika in the hand-me-down box. A hooded velour dress with a patch kangaroo pocket. I told husband that I wanted a dress like that to wear around the house, to which he jokingly replied “you have to sew one”. Little did he know that I had a pattern that worked perfectly in copying dress, never dare a sewer!

Toddler dress in adult version
Toddler dress in adult version

The pattern is Sömnadsmagasin 02-2012-115. I had some issues with the pattern, such as the hood not matching the neckline and I somehow messed up the hood facings so they didn’t match the hood opening, this could have something to do with velour losing its stretch when I interfaced the facing. The fabric is velour in organic cotton from Stoff och Stil. It’s really soft and feels so much better than the regular velour, which has a 20% polyester content. The lace is cotton.

Pocket if hands are extra cold
Pocket if hands are extra cold

I wanted to add some length, but I didn’t have enough fabric, it must have shrunk more than planned. But it will still work with thick leggings or, if I’m feeling extra cold, my Pyjama Party Pants in velour. If my Mortmain Frock is the dress I’ll wear for all festive events in the upcoming season, this is what I’ll wear the day after. Lounge wear to be worn at other people’s house (I would never wear sweatpants at other people’s places, this dress I could totally wear).

Cosy! (Inspirational toddler in background)

There was one element of Erika’s dress that I skipped adding to mine. The ruffle. As it turns out I do have a limit for how far I will go in my toddler inspiration at that limit is at a ruffle over the butt. It would have added the length I needed, but no. Butt ruffles should be limited to toddlers only, they are the only ones who can pull it off.

Due to some bad weeks at work I had lost my sewing spirit, luckily I had my sewing meet-up planned. I sewed this dress and my sewing spirit returned. Now I’m working on a new skirt for my fall plan, sadly the Michelle looks to homemade and unmodern to be worn.

Cuddling up with a good book*
Cuddling up with a good book*

Fabric: Organic cotton velour
Pattern: Sömnadsmagasin 02-2012-115
Notions: Interfacing, Lace1, Lace 2, thread, satin band
Techniques used: Sewn on lace, patch pocket, hood, buttonholes.

*Currently reading The Emigrants novel series about the mass emigration from Sweden to America during the 19th century. It’s a very well written book, fascinating and combining facts and fiction. Having emigrated relatives in the US this book gives me so much in terms of the hardships, reasoning and what their ancestors went through. I’m reading it in preparation for attending the musical based on the books, Kristina från Duvemåla, in March.

Creation: Mortmain Frock

I feel a warning is in order. If you plan to invite me to a party in the upcoming fall/winter season you will be seeing this dress. I love wearing it and I feel totally pretty in it. This dress will probably celebrate Christmas and New Year’s, plus it has the opportunity to see two musicals (American Idiot and Kristina från Duvemåla). Not too shabby for one dress! It also gets to make an appearance during The Monthly Stitch’s Frocktober.

Mortmain (16)
Happy about my new dress (and ran into a wet bush on the way to take photos)

The pattern is Gather Kits’ Mortmain dress. I have made an FBA, which I talked about in my process post along with other alterations. The pattern was great to work with, I loved that it was printed on a sturdy paper, as opposed to the tissue paper that’s often used. I even got it back in its envelope the same way I took it out! Since I’m a tracer at heart I much prefer sturdy paper. Since I am learning the ropes of the FBA, this pattern, with the dart placement is an excellent base to accommodate for a fuller bust. However, I think the darts are still a bit too long.

Bodice closeup
Bodice closeup

The fabric is a cotton satin with about 5% lycra. It’s quite heavy, but I think it works for this dress. It’s very comfortable to wear due to the lycra. Of course the main attraction of this dress is the exposed zipper in the back. For this type of dress, it’s so perfect! A calssaci silhouette and bam! Some excitement in the back. My zipper ended up a bit too low, so I had to add a hook and eye at the top of the seam. I don’t think it distracts too much from the design.

La pièce de résistance
La pièce de résistance

Since I already had decided that this is a winter party dress I wanted to add some decorative stitching. My first idea was to do it in a silver metallic thread, but after doing half the neckline I started to feel bad for my machine and took them all out. All I had to show for that evening of sewing was small bits of metallic thread all over my sewing and reading rooms. And myself. Plus a silver stitch on a teal dress really makes the dress look like an ornamented Christmas tree. It was a little too much. In the end I did the same stitch but in regular black thread instead. Still fun, but not over the top.

Decorative stitches for neckline, armholes and hem
Decorative stitches for neckline, armholes and hem

The other instance in which I had to break out my seam ripper was a total “what was I thinking?”-moment. I had made my armhole facings and was set to attach them. I found which piece was front and back and pinned accordingly. It didn’t quite fit, but I pulled and tugged and got it in to sew. I did the other one, which fitted perfectly, and turned to look at my first one. Sure I had set the front in the front, but I had pinned the whole thing upside down. Nothing to do but rip and replace. Such a stupid mistake!

As I mentioned in my process post I interfaced the waistband and did a self-lining, all inspired by Mary of Idle Fancy. I hope it will hold the dress up better, especially since I have stretchy fabric to begin with, plus it looks quite nice, don’t you think? The waistband feature was one I liked about this pattern, since it’s not seen very often these days. All the edges are overlocked. The suggestion from the pattern was to use pinking shears on the facings’ raw edges. I did overlock them too because for one I don’t own pinking shears and secondly overlocked raw edges are bound to hold up better. There are facings around the armholes and necklines, I know some prefer to use bias tape instead, I’m on team facings. I do however find the need to topstitch armhole facings to keep them in place. The exposed zip is sewn, close to the teeth, with the wrong side of the fabric folded out, then the excess fabric is trimmed and the zipper is sewn again close to the edge, hiding all raw edges.

Overlocked edges and faced and lined waistband
Overlocked edges and faced and lined waistband (and some stray threads)

I enjoyed working with this pattern. The instructions were very clear and the glossary of sewing terms in the back was great to keep the flow going without explanations of terms mid-text. My one problem with this dress is I have nothing to wear with it. I think a good option would be a cropped jacket, such as New Look 6080. Yes, then I’d have one party outfit, but maybe all you need are few great pieces, with some variation potential in terms of accessories (perhaps the Tallis collar drafted for this dress) and layering, because let’s be honest here: I don’t attend that many parties.

Do you go for a many special occasion pieces or is a few enough? Do you have a party invite for me so I can wear my new, lovely dress? Do you get the Mortmain reference (I don’t) and why is it that there as so few of them on blogland?

Creation: Michelle The Third

Following my third incarnation of Sewaholic’s Alma, I began my next project in my fall sewing plan, which is yet another third incarnation. And another female name as well, Michelle (I know that technically Sewaholic patterns are named for streets and areas, but Alma happens to be both a street and a name). Michelle is a Burdastyle pattern from back in the glorious day when patterns were free and the sense of community was high. What happened?

Yep, side seam pockets!
Yep, side seam pockets!

I have previously made two summer versions of the Michelle Skirt, one yellow and green and one pink. It is a comfortable, easy skirt so instead of finding and tracing something new I chose the easy way out. The fabric is a duchess satin; shiny, quite stiff and 100% polyester, which played into my choosing a looser skirt for winter. I wouldn’t want to wear polyester too close to my body and since it’s not very good at keeping warm, some sort of outer layer was excluded. Full skirt with tights under – polyester can work for that. The burgundy fabric has been in my stash for a good 2.5 years so it was time to get it out in the air. The grey fabric was purchased to provide contrast and it’s the same fabric type, just another colour.

Hardest bits: pleats and folding polyester ribbon trim.
Hardest bits: pleats and folding polyester ribbon trim.

The pattern is pretty straight-forward and easy, plus the old Burdastyle’s instructions were quite detailed and had illustrations. (Forgive me while I daydream of old Burdastyle). I had no issues putting this skirt together, the hardest part was the pleats, but that was only due to the fact that it’s impossible to draw on polyester. Yes, I know tailor tacks, but I just pinned where the pleats went and stitched. It worked for this skirt since the pleats were short and straight, the method would not have worked well on darts (that piece of tip is sponsored by experience; having tried and failed). Another hardship was adding the contrast ribbon since my polyester fabric would not press. Synthetic fabric has a life of its own, I tell ya. Michelle The Third (14) Being older and wiser than when I made my previous versions I decided to add inseam side pockets. Since I plan to wear the skirt to work, having pockets is great for tossing the phone in when going to meetings or, what I do more often, to the coffee room. I traced around my hand and drew a pocket shape. The pockets were added to the side seam using By Hand London’s tutorial. Of course this made the step “sew side seam” a bit harder, however pockets are good to have. They’re a bit too small so I must struggle to get my hand in, however, I am quite happy with the placement and sewing of them.

Back view. Perhaps I saw the facing with a seam allowance a bit too big.
Back view. Perhaps I sewed the facing with a seam allowance a bit too big.

My fall wardrobe plan goes in the colours of grey and burgundy, which I have captured in this skirt. I am a bit worried that the fabric makes it look too home-made, but I think I will have to wear it to find out. Paired with my grey Alma, to take it from party to work. Two pieces down, five to go! Are you worried that your homemade clothes look “too homemade”? How do you avoid that? Do you ever daydream about the old Burdastyle as much as I do?

Creation: Alma the Third

Alma the third. I think I can call this a TNT pattern for me now. Perhaps TNT is just another way of saying “OK, I’ve muslined, fitted and perfected this pattern and I’m too lazy to do it to another pattern, so let’s just go for the one I’ve already fitted”. No? Just me, then.

This blouse needs a belt or big necklace.
This blouse needs a belt or big necklace.

Seriously, I am very pleased with the fit of my two Sewaholic Alma blouses (Starry and Striped) so why not make a third one? To change things up, this time I opted to make view C with long sleeves and rounded neckline. OK,OK, it’s not view C. I took the bodice from view A and just took out the notch. I don’t know if there are any other differences but it was easier than retracing a whole new bodice. Wasn’t that what TNTs were all about? I do think this neckline is a bit more narrow than a proper view C, but to me it doesn’t matter. Plus I could probably lower the darts just a little bit, but again it’s not that bad.

Back view. Great fit. (The skirt could have used some ironing, though)
Back view. Great fit. (The skirt could have used some ironing, though)

The construction of this blouse is pretty straight-forward. The most nerve-racking moment was sewing the sleeves, complete with cuffs and a placket – something I had never done before. I have tried and failed. And this time I *drumroll* failed again. I couldn’t figure out how to do the placket. It felt as if there was too much information stored in the one placket step in the instructions. With too much information the instructions became sparse. Anyway, after fiddling for a while trying to read slowly and thoroughly whilst trying to understand the pictures, I just stitched it down as it made sense to me. It’s not the right way, but it’s OK. I doubt anyone will notice.

Self-constructed placket. And buttons to match my grey/purple theme for fall.
Self-constructed placket. And buttons to match my grey/purple theme for fall.

I used the same bodice as I had modified before. FBA, adding length, grading gown. After I’d traced and cut the sleeves I realised that these sleeves were also drafted for a 5’4” person. As I stand at 5’6” I was a bit worried, but I hoped my short arms would take care of it and make it a non-issue. Plan B was just view B, to chop the sleeves off. Well if I ever doubted that I have proportionally short arms I now have been refuted. RTW reaches down to my fingers (I hardly ever wear gloves in the winter since the sleeve covers my hand) and this sleeve, drafted for someone 2” shorter than me is great length (or is it too long? I really don’t know how long sleeves are supposed to be). No plan B needed! I must say that whenever I wear an Alma I am filled with confidence and pride over my well-fitting blouse. I love wearing it!

It works tucked too, but then I definitely need something colourful to accessorise.
It works tucked too, but then I definitely need something colourful to accessorise.

The fabric is a cotton poplin that has been sitting in my stash for a while, 2 years I think. I did buy it to make shirt, not this one, so in the end it fulfilled its purpose. It is part of my FW 2014 sewing plan and it’s one of those basic pieces. Some of those are needed. I didn’t make the self-fabric belt for this blouse as I won’t belt it with a grey belt, it needs something flashier. I also think I need to find myself some long necklaces to go with this blouse – I’ll be hitting the jewelry section at the flea markets! First piece of my sewing plan FW 2014 done! Now I really feel I need those fun skirts to match it with to avoid being boring. I have great hopes! Are you a TNT person or do you make each pattern just once? How do you feel about making cake pieces? Do you have an unusual adjustment to make (such as needing to add 2” to a bodice and nothing to the sleeves)?

Sewing Plan Fall/Winter 2014

I have a plan, a seam to sew… (to be sung to the melody of ABBA’s I Have A Dream)


Yes, for the first time in my sewing career I have an actual sewing plan. This is huge, as I’ve before aimlessly have wondered through the fabric store isles, picking up whatever appeals to me without much thought if the fabric actually goes with anything in my wardrobe (resulting in my low fabric confidence). With the help of my stash, the new fabric catalogue and interesting patterns I present to you, my sewing plan for FW 2014! (Cheers are in order)

Bomullspoplin, stone - Copy

First up (which is pretty much completed as I type this) is another Alma blouse (number 1, number 2). Why change a winning, well-fitting concept? This time I made view C, with the long sleeves and rounded neckline. It has been made in a greyish poplin, which will make it a perfect base to match with prints.

Aubergine, partysatin - Copy

Next up; a skirt which I will make to match the Alma. The fabric comes from a lovely bolt of purple poly satin, it’s quite stiff, dubbed “Party Satin” in the store. I will make the Michelle skirt from Burdastyle, yes another pattern used for the third time (number 1, number 2). I will buy some matching fabric in grey to make the contrast bits and I hope that will make a cool outfit paired with the Alma blouse. Plus, making a skirt in shiny polyester I hope it will be, you know, actually wearable.

Svart Denim - Copy

Another skirt, I do have a need for them this fall. And another skirt, another re-make. This one will be a black denim skirt inspired by the lovely and inspirational Zooey Deschanel (the skirt looks very much like Colette’s Ginger, but I am not paying that price for an A-line skirt. Just sayin’). The Daily Mail has dubbed this a pencil skirt. Is my fashion terminology way off? To me that is not a pencil skirt. In that spirit, that it’s not a pencil skirt, I will use Burda 10-2011-119, modified of course, I used this pattern for my Lessons Learnt Skirt. I will remove the pockets and copy Zooey’s (I hope this works out, it could be disastrous otherwise). I’ll leave the waistband as is, I daren’t try to redraft it.

Jade satin - Copy

Hopefully, the fall and winter will have some parties to it. Cause if this dress meets my vision, it will be my go to party dress for the season. It’s Gather’s Mortmain dress, which I won over at The Monthly Stitch, in a teal satin. It has a bit of stretch to it (cotton/lycra blend) and I think if I get it right it will be both comfortable and gorgeous. Yes, I have high hopes. I have made my first muslin and it needs some more work. I’m hoping to finish this for Frocktober. I have bought a black silver metallic zipper for the back and am now pondering if I should buy some silver metallic thread to do matching decorative topstitching. Decisions, decisions…

The projects above are those for which I have fabrics and patterns. For the next three projects in my plan I have ordered patterns, but I have no fabrics. Therefor they are subject to change as I haven’t felt the fabrics yet, I always want to feel and touch before committing.

First up: another blouse. I have realised that I am more drawn to blouses than jersey tops so I will make those. I have ordered New Look 6945 and for my version I will do view C, the long-sleeved version. I really like this floral cotton so I hope it feels as lovely, cause I’m sure it will make a perfect fall blouse!

And yes, skirt number three. It may be a bit juvenile, but I really like this purple twill. The pattern will be decided based on weight but if it works I am leaning towards the Olga skirt by Jenny Hellström.

Finally I will venture in to new territory, blazers. I have never ever sewn a blazer or hardly ever wore one, so I thought I’d ease myself into the concept and world of blazers. I’ve ordered Simplicity 4032 and although it says it’s for fleeces I plan to do it in a sweatshirt fabric. I haven’t decided on which fabric I’ll use since I really do want to feel them, avoid getting a too bulky blazer. Plus many of the fashion sweatshirts have polyester, which makes me want to feel them even more. I am suspect of polyester. My plan is to make view D, which is oddly placed first. If it’s a success I can see myself making some of the other views as well, but probably never in fleece.

There you have it; my FW sewing plan for 2014. I will stick to this list, using The Monthly stitch challenges to guide me. The only interruptions I’ll accept are sewing for the kids. Seven pieces in total which I think I can mix and match. Getting ready for a well-dressed autumn and winter.

Do you set a plan for your sewing or is it freestyle all the way? Are you drawn to the same looks/colours as me or is my plan totally out of your style? How would your plan look?

Creation: Cake Tee

Happy  first birthday to The Monthly Stitch! I may have just joined in June for Indie month and have only posted once, but I wanted in on the celebrations as well. We were tasked to sew Cake, in any interpertation we wished.

Starry Cake Tee (1)
Comfy casual Tee

I decided to use the opportunity to break my Cake virginity, by sewing the free Tee pattern. I had never sewed a Cake pattern before and being on team FBA I was intriguied by the sizing system (I have the Tiramisu pattern in my stash, but haven’t sewn it…yet). For this pattern you base the shoulders and sleeves on bust width and then you choose your own length and hip measurements and play connect the dots. Ah, childhood memories. After a Twitter exchange with Steph of Cake, I decided to take in the side seams a bit, so the Tee would get some more shape and not just being straight from bust to hip. I was a bit worried about the fabric bunching up under the arm, but it wasn’t that bad.

No fabric bunching!
No fabric bunching!

Speaking of the fabric, this one is lovely, let me tell you! It’s a cotton jersey from Stoff och Stil’s organic collection in cotton and lycra (too bad the other fabrics from the collection are quite juvenile). It is incredibly soft to wear and a joy to work with now that I’ve mastered the overlocker to the extent where I can actually use it (still need to learn about thread tension and differential feeding better). I usually don’t wear t-shirts to work, but hey there are weekends too and this t-shirt will be perfect for lounging around the house, chasing the kids around. Plus I’ve already established that I need to up my lounging wear.

Finished with hem band at the bottom
Finished with hem band at the bottom

I enjoyed the customable aspect of the pattern. I made the v-neck and was a bit confused by the instructions to do it, mine ended up way wrong. I don’t know if the instructions are lacking or I was just lost in translation (even though I’m pretty fluent in English, sometimes I get lost). But still I liked the pattern and it is perfect for using small pieces of jersey. It is also possible that the Tee might be a little too tight on me, but I don’t mind. I wore it to the kids’ pre-school when I visited with Little E and the kids there didn’t seem to mind either.