Tag Archives: SS2012

Creation: The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook dress: The Leaf Dress

Once upon a time I posted about a dress I loved, my Leaf Dress. I sewed it back in the Spring of 2012. Three years ago. Back then I didn’t fit into it, especially after adding a lining. Then I spent a year and a half being pregnant and nursing. Then I tried to adjust to being a working mum of two. Now, three years later, it fits!

Leaf dress (19)
Happy that this dress finally fits (the belt is a bit big, though)

The fabric, in form of my Leaf Skirt, have made rounds during Me-Made-May and its likes and it was always one of the most appreciated garments I wore. The irony is that the skirt is now too big. The skirt was produced after the dress, so I knew I had a winner fabric on my hands. The fabric is a lovely cotton sateen, I love working with that stuff. I behaves politely and do as I please; it doesn’t shift and it presses well.

Leaf dress (21)

The pattern is the dress from the Burdastyle Sewing Handbook. This was pre my FBA days, I think it wouldn’t have hurt my to do a slight FBA, but the dress sits nicely on me. The fit is not perfect, though, as the princess seams flatten my chest. It’s just that I’m so happy to be able to wear the dress, that I don’t care! People who don’t sew will be impressed, mark my words!

Leaf dress (24)

The dress, being fully lined, may very well be one of my best-constructed garments. I can’t wait for the weather to get warmer and wear this dress! (Not too warm though as the lining is polyester). Also, I’m hoping I don’t have too high expectations on this dress, having seen it hanging in my wardrobe for three years and now being able to wear it. It is just a dress, albeit a very pretty dress. And now I can finally wear it!

The ruffle is left raw
The ruffle is left raw

Project summary:
Pattern
: The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook dress.
Difficulty: Intermediate. With my experience I didn’t find it hard, I liked the images that accompanied the instructions. However, I would not recommend this as a beginner pattern.
Alterations: Omitted the neckline ruffle and closure (although I might add a closure now that I see the pictures).

Fabric: Cotton Sateen, Acetate lining.
Notions: Thread, zipper, interfacing
Price: Fabric 100  SEK (€11.61), zipper 23 SEK (€2.67), lining 20 SEK (€2.32), thread and interfacing 10 SEK (€1.16).
Total: 149 SEK (€17.29)

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Denna klänning sydde jag för 3 år sedan. Tyvärr passade den inte då, och däremellan har jag varit gravid och ammat. Men nu, tre år senare, har jag tagit mig i kragen och nu kan jag äntligen bära den! Den sitter bra, men hade nog dragit nytta av en Full Bust Adjustment. Mönstret är klänningen från The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook och tyget är bomullssating från Stoff och Stil. Tyget är underbart! Jag älskar mönstret och känslan av det, det var underbart att arbeta med. Klänningen är helfodrad med acetatfoder.

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The Leaf Dress

Back in May I completed my Leaf Dress, but it didn’t fit and it has since just been hanging in my wardrobe. Luckily, it’s a pretty addition to my wardrobe and mark my word, one day I will fit into this dress! The Leaf Dress 001 The pattern is the dress from the Burdastyle Sewing Handbook. I’ve omitted the ruffle along the neckline, because I really don’t have the need to add more stuff in the chest area. The fabric is a cotton sateen from Stoff och Stil, the same I used for the Leaf Skirt (cut after the dress).

The Leaf Dress 003As well as omitting the neckline ruffle, I also chose not to use any closure in the neckline, I kind of like the folded-over feeling. The dress fit me (in a smaller form) perfectly without any modifications. The cotton sateen had some stretch to it, it was when I added the interfaced lining the dress did not fit me (and then I think I expanded some more).

The Leaf Dress 002I really like the bottom ruffle, which is attached to the lining and unfinished at the bottom. It is a special feature.

The Leaf Dress 004The dress is fully lined, I used an acetate lining, the bodice of it is interfaced. I’ve always stayed away from lining clothes, but it’s not as hard as I thought and it gives the garment a polished look on the inside as well.

Project summary: Pattern: The Burdastyle sewing handbook dress. Difficulty: Intermediate. With my experience I didn’t find it hard, I liked the images that accompanied the instructions. However, I would not recommend this as a beginner pattern. Alterations: Omitted the neckline ruffle and closure. Fabric: Cotton Sateen, Acetate lining. Notions: Thread, zipper, interfacing Price: Fabric 100  SEK (€11.61), zipper 23 SEK (€2.67), lining 20 SEK (€2.32), thread and interfacing 10 SEK (€1.16). Total: 149 SEK (€17.29)

Project rating: I guess it’s no secret that I’m in love with this fabric. The dress looks good and while I could still get into it, I loved it on as well. I can’t wait to wear it! (Even if I do fit into it next summer, it will be difficult to wear next summer as I will be breast-feeding)

Pink Peplum Blouse – Not Quite Right

This spring I jumped on the trend bandwagon and sewed myself a peplum blouse. While there are thing I love about the blouse, other things are not so great and I will modify the it before wearing it in public.

I’ve Frankenpatterned two patterns to make this blouse. The bodice is BS 10-2011-129 to which I’ve added the flounce from BS 04-2010-125, the same pattern used for my Skirt Without Bow. The fabric is a pink cotton poplin with a little bit of stretch, very comfortable.

The good: I like the shaping with the pleats in the front and back, they make for a very flattering silhouette. Since the fabric has a little bit of stretch the blouse is very comfortable to wear. I like the neckline as well.

The bad: The peplum falls too high, it should fan out lower. I haven’t made the peplum parts meet so it opens up over my stomach unless I wear very high waisted bottom (of which I don’t have many). The colour + the sleeve length + the puff sleeve is a little too much and feels too much little girl.

What are my plans: This bodice was not meant to be a blouse. I will remove the peplum and add a skirt instead, probably in a colour that will keep the blouse away from too girly (I’m thinking navy blue, although it’s perhaps not summer-y enough for my liking). I will probably remove the sleeves and make it sleeveless instead.

I don’t have any fabric to make the skirt, I don’t have the inspiration to sew a summer dress right now, but I’m hoping for next summer that I can prance around in a sweetheart neckline dress and not look like a little girl.

Covergirl Outfit

I set out to copy the cover outfit from Burdastyle 05/2012 (left look). (BTW, why did they choose a photo where it looks like she’s trying to fix an underwear wedgie?). Here’s my version:

Can you believe that in six years of sewing I have never made a tiered maxi skirt before? While it’s not very hard it’s time-consuming (I believe there are still gathering threads to unpick, but I haven’t found them). The skirt is huge and weighs a ton, but I still like it. The hem circumference is 5.2 metres. I counted that this skirt needs 15.6 metres of gathering seams (7.8 m x2) and I’ve sewn approximately 23 metres in regular seams.

The top is really simple, I think it took me two hours to prep and sew. I lowered the neckline, I didn’t like the choking feeling from the original one (I’m not a big fan off having stuff too close around my neck). I pondered using bias tape to finish the neckline and arm holes, but I didn’t want to ruin my flow.

Now for the big question: Where do you wear an outfit like this?

Project Summary:
Pattern:
Burdastyle 05-2012-110A and 111
Difficulty: Easy for both. Simple sewing, the skirt is time-consuming (thumbs down for the bad instructions, for beginner patterns it is not enough to say “gather”)
Alterations: I lowered the neckline of the top.

Fabric: Poly/satin blend from Stoff och Stil
Notions: A whole bunch of thread
Price: Fabric 172 SEK (€19.96). Thread 2 SEK (€0.23). Total 174 SEK (€20.19).

Project Rating: My first maxi skirt! I haven’t decided if it’s “me” but I do feel quite elegant in this complete look. And if it’s too much as a whole, I can match the separates to something else.

Pink Lace Top

For long I’ve found myself lacking in me-made tops. This weekend I changed that and made myself two tops. This is the second one (and unfortunately it was too light to take the pictures outside).

This is what my outside pictures looked like. Today I paired the top with my Namesake Skirt and I like the contrast of lace and dark denim. I think I may have cut the top a little too short, but there’s not much to do about that. It didn’t have the same stretch as the other tops I’ve made with this pattern (Flouncing Sleeves top, Star T-shirt) so it’s also a bit boxy. But I still like it!

The fabric is a stretch lace which I picked up from the scrap bin in the store. It was a bit hard to figure out which way I wanted it to go, but in the end I settled for length-wise. The top was quick and easy to sew up.

The top was supposed to have facings in the neckline, but with this delicate fabric it didn’t work, so I just put Vlieseline bias tape around the neckline and stitched it down (which I, for some reason, am terrible at).

Project Summary:
Pattern:
Burdastyle 01-2009-106B, altered
Difficulty: Easy. It took me a little under two hours to sew this and that was only because of my difficulty with knits.
Alterations: I used another sleeve, a standard jersey sleeve.

Fabric: Stretch lace from Stoff och Stil
Notions: Thread, Vlieseline bias tape
Price: Fabric 133 SEK (€15.45). Thread and interfacing 2 SEK (€0.23). Total 135 SEK (€15.68).

Project Rating: I was in need of new tops and I quite like this one. For long I’ve been wanting to work with lace so this fit two bills. It’s easy to wear, the only drawback is that it became a little too short. But all in all, I like it!

Polka Dot Shirtdress

This dress was finished in April and worn during Me-Made-May. One the day I wore it the weather was nice a perfect for a photo shoot (however it was windy which explains my facial expressions and hair).

The pattern is Sömnadsmagasin 08-2008-124. The fabric is a matte satin and was bought at the Stoff och Stil sale last winter. The buttons come from Bernt i Lund. The perfect match would be a more colourful belt, but since I didn’t have that this light pink would have to make do.

The front piece is divided by princess seams, which are also top stitched, the back is in one full piece. The original pattern had wrist length sleeves, I shortened them and it really lifted the dress, it was so much better!

I chose the size based on my measurements, but in retrospect I probably should have used a size smaller since the dress had a lot of ease. It’s bulky in the chest and collar. Despite this I’m happy with the dress and I got plenty of compliments at work. I also heard that polka dots are in fashion right now, but I don’t know enough about trends to verify or deny this statement.

Project Summary:
Pattern:
Sömnadsmagasin 08-2008-124
Difficulty: Average. The instructions were a bit tricky, but I figured it out. I haven’t sewn a collar in quite a while, so it was nice with a new challenge
Alterations: I shortened the sleeves.

Fabric: Polka dot matte satin from Stoff och Stil
Notions: Thread, interfacing, buttons
Price: Fabric 189 SEK (€20.99). Buttons 85 SEK (€9.65). Thread and interfacing 5 SEK (€0.57). Total 279 SEK (€31.66).

Project Rating: The dress is not perfect, but rather good enough. I don’t know if others see the mistakes that I see. It’s fun to wear, even if a bit bulky. I got to work on a new technique, the collar. All in all, I’m pleased.

Lime Truffle Dress

I did finishe my Truffle Dress and wore it to a birthday party yesterday. I love it! I definitely needed a pop of colour in my wardrobe and this dress really pops.

I used the Truffle Dress from the Colette Sewing Handbook and omitted the ruffle. At first glance, when I got the book back in December, I didn’t really care for the ruffle, but after seeing many versions with it, it grew on me. However I didn’t have enough fabric for it as my fashion fabric was a scrap bin find. Perhaps in an upcoming version.

I really love the shaping of the dress with the use of darts. It’s my first Colette dress pattern but from what I can gather Colette truly understands the shape of a woman. I did a “light muslin” using my lining fabric. It was a bit hard as the side seams are among the last to be sewn so it was hard to get the fit right. When the dress was finished it was actually too big over the bust. That has never happened before! For that reason alone I want to make nothing other than Colette patterns. (BTW, look at the unintentional (other than cutting the fabric folded) pattern matching along the center back skirt seam). I did like the unusual approach of constructing the dress (finishing the shoulder seams, pulling the dress through and then sewing the lining and shell side seams in one) even though it made it harder to fit.

The fabric is a satin from Stoff och Stil, intended as a home textile/curtain fabric, but it worked very well for a structured dress.

Project summary: Pattern: Truffle Dress from the Colette Sewing Handbook Difficulty: I would say easy. The sewing is not anything complicated and the instructions are clear and imaged. Alterations: Omitted the ruffle due to fabric restrictions.

Fabric: Satin, acetat lining. Notions: Thread, zipper. Price: Fabric 86.35  SEK (€9.77), zipper 23 SEK (€2.60), lining 17.5 SEK (€1.98), thread 1 SEK (€0.11). Total: 128 SEK (€14.48)

Project rating: I wanted a dress that popped and I got a dress that popped! I love shopping in the scrap bin, letting others decide what I will buy. At the store I didn’t realise that this was in deed a home textile, so I didn’t let that fact phase me. I love the outcome and I really want to make many more Colette patterns.

My pattern review of the Truffle dress.

The Sookie Dress

You know all those cute sundresses Sookie Stackhouse wears? (If not, look here). Since I think she is adorable I wanted to make myself a cute sundress, in honour of her.

This dress was definitly an instant gratification project as it took me two evenings of sewing to get it done.

The pattern is a free download from Stitch Magazine. It’s only the pattern, they use the magazine for instructions, but this dress is quite straight-forward and I wouldn’t have used the instructions even if I  did have them. I had to sew the back piece in two (it’s supposed to be on the fold, but I didn’t have enough fabric for that), I also moved the zipper to the back in stead of the side seam. I omitted the bow and lengthened the dress with about 5 cm.

The dress is shaped by open darts in the front and back, right under the bust. Facings run along the neckline and armholes.

ngs. There is an invisible zipper in the left side seam.

Project summary:
Pattern
: Bow Appeal Dress from Stitch Magazine
Difficulty:Easy. Very simple sewing, a great beginner project if someone can guide you with instructions.
Alterations: Cut the back in two pieces, added the zipper in the center back seam. Elongated the dress 5 cm. Omitted the bow.

Fabric: Cotton voile
Notions: Thread, zipper, interfacing.
Price: Fabric 112  SEK (€12.44), zipper 23 SEK (€2.55) thread + interfacing  5 SEK (€0.56).
Total: 140 SEK (€15.55).

Oh, and don’t miss to check this dress out!

Project rating: L

Green Floral blouse

I finished this blouse in time for Me-Made.-May.

The pattern is the Burdasyle Sewing Handbook blouse, pretty much unaltered. The fabric is a viscose, purchased at the winter sale, so it was pretty cheap.

The blouse fits me fairly well and the size is good. I do want to try and alter the pattern, but I figured an original go would be the best for me to get to know the pattern.

In retrospect I wish the bodice was a bit longer, it’s pulling up on me. Note that I’ve paired the blouse with my Lessons Learnt Skirt, and I wore this outfit for Me-Made-May already.

Project summary: Pattern: The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook blouse Difficulty: Intermediate. It was plenty of pieces to keep track of, but the sewing was pretty easy. The instructions were clear with many pictures. Alterations: Did an elastic both in the front and back. Omitted trim. Omitted zipper, I could get the blouse over my head. Fabric: Viscose Notions: Thread,elastic, interfacing. Price: Fabric 38  SEK (€4.20),  thread + interfacing  + elastic 7  SEK (€0.77). Total: 45 SEK (€4.98).

Project rating: This blouse is not really my style, but I wanted to get to know the pattern. I think it will be used, but not on highest rotation. It was cheap, though!

The Leaf Skirt

On Thursday I got the urge to wear something new the upcoming day. So after the kiddo went to bed (around half past seven) I sat down with a project. Criminal Minds was on at nine, so that was my deadline. On Friday I wore this:

In short: I love this skirt! The cut is perfect and the fabric is lovely. I love how it looks with the thin black stockings.

The pattern is Meringue from the Colette Sewing Handbook. Due to fabric restrictions (I used scraps from another project) I omitted the scalloped hem. The pattern is a perfect basic skirt and doesn’t use a lot of fabric (not counting the scallops) so it’s perfect for scraps. The waist is a little big, hopefully someday I’ll have the inspiration to fix it.

The pattern was good in size and the instructions seemed good, I didn’t use them very much since it’s easy to construct a skirt like this. I feel like I want one skirt in every colour in this pattern, it’s so easy to sew and wear. (I rarely make tops. It’s a problem)

The waist is finished with two darts in the front and back respectively and has facings. There is an invisible zipper in the left side seam.

Project summary:
Pattern
: Meringue from the Colette sewing handbook
Difficulty:Easy. It’s the first project of the book and it’s easy. Very easy if you omit the scallops.
Alterations: Omitted the scallop hem.

Fabric: Cotton sateen (lovely to work with and wear)
Notions: Thread, zipper, interfacing.
Price: Fabric 60  SEK (€6.74), zipper 23 SEK (€2.58) thread + interfacing  5 SEK (€2.58).
Total: 88 SEK (€9.88).

Project rating: Love! A skirt which was easy to sew and easy to wear. The fabric is wonderful. Sometimes a simple quick skirt is just what you need. After the wonderful drafting of this skirt, I’m eager to try out more Colette patterns.